hoohloc

It's different from trading in a vehicle. One doesn't purchase a car for R12000 and trade it in for R2000, which is about 16% of the original cost, unless the car is being scrapped. If the vehicle is a non-runner or has been in an accident, then the situation changes. You are comparing apples with strawberries here. Anyone with US3000C wishing to trade in for R2000, I'm here to take one or few, for an extra R1000 on top of that trade value please

If the trade-in value is R2000, it's simply not a smart decision! You're effectively losing your batteries for that amount. Instead, consider selling them for a price that you find acceptable or continue using them until they can no longer function, allowing you the flexibility to purchase any brand you prefer. There are numerous alternatives available in the battery market, and the prices are quite appealing.

This has been running for the past four years without any issues. You only need gas CoC after the installation of the gas water heater, not electric CoC. Nothing will blow up even if you go from 0 to 75 deg, the gas water will ignite and heat up water and when water from the electric geyser at 75 deg gets to the gas water heat, it switches off and just let the hot water from the electric geyser to pass through.

Asking for a friend, are you going to use a qualified electrician? if so, he will advice on which cable is best to use and how he will get it through to the DB. My advise, involve your electrician and communicate your plans/ideas with him and get his advice. We all have different approaches when it comes to installations and the advice you will get here on the forum might differ with one you will get from the person who is actually going to the job.

Using Grid to supply the relay and connecting N/E to N/C contact. If the grid drops, N/C will close, connecting your N and E. Simple

You can leave the brackets and take panels and rails with you. No repairs will be required

hi @Kha2 I didn't buy any additional devices, the gas geyser came configured or set up to ignite when it detect cold water and switch off when hot water is detected. In the morning, especially in winter, cold water from the pipes get heated up when you take a shower and then when hot water from the electric geyser pass through, it switches off automatically. You get almost instant hot water all the time, you don't have to open the taps long and wait for hot water, wasting water. I can't remember the exact temperatures, the geyser has build in temperature controller Temperature controller connection relocated to PC board Installer-aided manual temperature settings: 40, 42, 45, 50, 55, 67, 70, 75 Temperature controllers allow full range temperature settings

After removing solar, I had to do a new CoC.

Yep, it was specified in the OTP, that the gas water heater, solar system and all wiring and piping associated, were excluded form the sale of the house. The buyer negotiated that while pushing to get a lower price. All were removed, walls patched and painted before the sale went through. I sold my two Growatts and replaced them with a 12kw Luxpower LXP

I did the same when I moved house last year, the new owner didn't want to buy the system and I was not prepared to let it go for free. To move my system to the new house it cost me less than R10k, which included un-installation from the old house, removing of all cables, modifications in the DB and CoC. Installation at the new house and CoC

not sure if they have a branch in CPT

seven years, swollen cells try these guys, Salvage Solar 0827056974, [email protected]. All the best

My understanding is that it is an energy saving tech and it achieves that saving by eliminating the ON/OFF cycling. Regulating motor speed instead of cycling on/off, they significantly reduce electricity consumption

Copied and pasted Methods for Adding External MPPT to Deye There are two primary ways to add more solar capacity to an existing Deye installation: Direct-to-Battery (External MPPT/Charge Controller): You install a separate, third-party MPPT charge controller (e.g., Victron SmartSolar) and connect its output directly to your battery bank. Pros: Independent of Deye MPPT limitations; easiest for adding panels with different voltages or orientations. Cons: Requires its own monitoring/app; not directly visible in the Deye Solarman app. AC Coupling (Additional Grid-Tie Inverter): You install an AC-coupled microinverter or string inverter and connect its output to the GEN or GRID port of the Deye inverter. Pros: Fully integrated into Deye monitoring; efficient for large scale expansion. Cons: More complex setup, requires proper grid-tie settings

Short Answer, Yes! it can work and there is no need to disconnect your BMS. Separate MPPT, separate string will have no interference with your inverter functioning as it should, as this is like connecting an ''extra battery'' on your battery bank

12000BTU does not require a dedicated breaker in the DB. You can add one if you prefer, but it is not a requirement, I stand to be corrected, so lets wait for the electricians to respond.

Another package delivered. Ordered this last week Wednesday and it arrived this morning

I have always maintained that if you are not planning to sell back to eskom/munic, there is no need to register. what happens in your property is your business, no one else' s.

Think this is pure bad luck, My wife and I, always use AliExpress and always get refunded when we don't receive goods or when wrong stuff has been delivered. I Just received my SONOFF stuff which I ordered in January this year and they delivered quicker than their initial expected delivery date

Sold!

Imagine the grid being a 24 wheeler truck which is filled with coal. Imagine your inverter being a simple bicycle. Grid connection = the truck pulling the bicycle, speed 20km/h. You lose the grid, and now you want to try to feed back to the grid, meaning you now want to pull the 24 wheeler which is filled to the capacity with coal using your bicycle. If you are strong enough you will damage your bicycle or break the rope meaning your inverter will trip if it has protection. Else white smoke will come out of your inverter and nothing will happen to the grid

It can push back past your meter only when you have grid connection. Isolate or switch off the grid, then it will not be able to push back. You need to have utility frequency and Voltage to be able to push back

I guess I will cross that bridge when I get there. All I can say is that register if you want, not because you are being threatened. My rental property is not registered and I will not register because I do not have to and no one can tell me otherwise. My home is registered and still waiting for the day they convert me back to post paid, then will deal with the issue accordingly.

You beat me to this point of over loading the inverter

How my inverter works is that when there is no grid, it automatically turns into the backup system (EPS) and stop pushing back to the grid or non-essentials. It will give a warning that there is no grid. It is impossible for 12kw inverter to push back to the grid when the grid drops. Even if for some miracle lets say it can, it will immediately trip with over load as it will not be able to supply all the houses on my street. So, technically and logically, I do not see any risk to any technician working on the grid when the grid is properly isolated. I have a feeling that all Hybrid inverters works the same. There has to be a grid in order to push back supply to the grid,