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Everything posted by hoohloc

  1. @JV0_11_Which option did you go with? any regrets?
  2. If you are looking for a wall mount battery, have a look at Hubble. Pylons are cabinet mount or floor standing
  3. You can go off grid but it will be best to keep the grid connection as back up of get a Geny in case of long rainy days and winter. A 5Kw Inverter with 12 x 400W PV Panels and 4.8kw of Lithium batteries will do the job. But if you spend on R250 per month, going off grid will be a waste. It will be better just to get an inverter and Batteries as back up for power cuts
  4. Yes you can, and you will have to use the UP5000s as master
  5. For R30k, your friend can get a decent system if he DIY the installation himself and just get an electrician to split his DB and for CoC
  6. Ok, we are looking at different KODAKs, but Growatt is still cheaper at R6k
  7. I doubt you can get all that with a budget of R25k. The Hubble battery is already R26k alone, R1k over budget and you still need to get an inverter and bits and bobs. The 4.6Kw kodac inverter is around R19k. The OP wanted a budget friendly solution, lets not scare him into thinking that budget friendly does not exist when he can get a good solution for less than R30k. 3Kw inverter will work just fine if the DB is split into essential and non essential. Kitchen plugs, except for the fridge plug, can all be wired to non essential and no worries about someone switching the kettle or microwave while there is loadshedding. You can power all the lights, TV, fridge, wifi and charge your phones and you will never need to worry about the 1C or 0.5C of Lithium batteries. Till this date I have never had to draw 100A from my battery bank, with all the load of my house running on my 10Kw Growatt system. My advice, Get Pylontech US3000C and Growatt SF3000TL-48 because they are budget friendly and they work.
  8. Pulled a trigger on a 26L/min Paloma gas water heater @ R11k. Now to find an installer that will not charge me an arm and a leg to do the plumbing and give me CoC. Will update on the experience, or maybe start separate thread for that
  9. why not get a 48v inverter @ R6850 and Pylontec US3000C @ R17350? Then you don't have to worry about how to wire the batteries in Series/parallel. US3000C is a 3.5Kw battery and will match your 3kw inverter perfectly. Not sure about the Kodak though, have a look at Growartt SPF3000TL-48
  10. Yep, you need something to switch off your element when the water is hot enough. You can use your old thermostat
  11. Try Aggreko Power rental solutions: Aggreko Energy Rental Sa (Pty) Ltd ADDRESS 2 Axle Dr, Clayville X 11, Midrand, South Africa PHONE NUMBER 011 3166371 WEBSITE http://www.aggreko.co.za
  12. Its a 150L geyser and yep, I'm still using my old thermostat, set to 60 deg Cels. I do not measure the temperature but I assume it reaches 60 or 65 deg because it some times switches off twice during the day or once depending on how much hot water gets used during the day. During the day, I'm happy with the ptc element, no complaints. The water gets over heated and thats how the government like and my lil princes like it. My only issue is that I do not want to use the grid at all, for water heating. Hence the gas water heater idea
  13. Eish! asking a question on how to start up in solar, one ends up with more questions back at them. Simple, you want budget, my advise, go for growatt SPF5000ES and the Pylontech battery that you mentioned. Just pull the trigger and install. As to how much you use and how independent you want to be from the grid, you will determine that as you go on. Start somewhere and build from there until you achieve the results you want. Your 8 x 330w panels will be ok to run your house the whole day and charge the battery. You are already cooking with gas and your geyser is a solar geyser, those are the only main consumers of your power. You do not have to turn your fridge off at night, the battery can handle that. I used to run mine plus a chest freezer on two 2.4Kw Pylon batteries through out the night
  14. I'm also using the 1.5kw ptc element and it stays ON the whole day. Only switch off at sun set and remains off till early mornings. The issue is morning showers, I want to use as minimum grid power as possible. So in the early morning at around 03:00, I have to switch on the geyser so that the water can be nice and hot at 05:30. My ceiling is insulated, the heat from the house can't get to the geyser and the water tend to get cold over night. I think my geyser needs to be insulated and the pipes as well. The plan was to get the gas water heater to boost the ptc element in the morning or when the weather is bad.
  15. hoohloc

    BMS Issue

    Best is to contact Growatt support if you want FW specific to your inverter. Don't just go downloading the firmware from the net because you are going to end up with a damaged inverter
  16. Thank you for the input. I'm told that the fan forced ones like Paloma don't have the issue of shutting the flame off. Only shut off when the correct temperature is reached. Which one do you have?
  17. I'm torn between the heat pump and gas water heater. I already have a 1500W geyser wise PTC element for my geyser. works well during sunny days but could use a boost for early morning showers and when cloudy. Both systems cost, roughly same amount for supply and installation. Leaning more towards the gas water heater side because I'm already installing the gas hob. It will be interesting to hear from someone with a gas water heater, on how they perform in terms of savings. The tubes for solar collection are out, they seem to be useless when you have rainy days and at night. The real comparison should be heat pumps vs Gas water heaters (IMHO)
  18. This looks much better than the shine app or growatt server display. Interesting
  19. Maybe if we keep bugging Growatt support with this issue of PV switching off when batteries are at 100%, they will come up with a fix for that. They need to understand that this can not be normal
  20. @Antonio de Sa while waiting for response from Amos, you can also contact @Buyeye, he has the same Growatts as yours . he might also be able to help with the settings, so that you can rule that out. I'm using the Growatt SPF5000TL models and not sure if the settings are the same as the ES models. Don't lose hope on Growatt yet, those are decent inverters and works well
  21. I don't think that this is about being educated or not, the OP says the inverters trip the AC breaker when he connects bms. Automatically one would isolate the issue to bms, as the breakers only trip when connecting that. It might be bms issue, might be settings, hence the best way is to get support from Amos to ensure that there is nothing wrong with his inverters. If there is a problem with the inverter, he will send inverter board if the inverters are under warranty. It took a month to get my new inverter board from him
  22. Hi, try sending your query to Amos, he is very helpful and have always assisted me when I had issues with my Growatt inverters. But from your explanation of the problem, the issue seems to be your BMS and not the inverters, I might be wrong but it really sounds like a bms issue. [email protected]
  23. Same brand but 320w, brand new is R1880 with 10 years warranty. The second hand ones you are looking at is 285kw and have done close to 50% of their warranty. So I would say R1880 x 50% = R940 for warranty and then less 10% for each year used. I can offer R564 per panel
  24. In principle, this is the rite way of doing things. In reality, with all the red tape, corruption and general bad service that goes with everything municipal related. I do not see how anyone will want to register their system. why make life difficult for yourself by having to go the municipal office, fill up forms, cue the whole day, pay and then be told you need to get a engineer to certify your installation like that is free. this is just an example, not saying that is how it is done but I wouldn't be surprised if I'm spot on
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