Cyon

As mentioned elsewhere on the forum, don't use a permanent bond. You only want that bond when no valid E/N bond exists and you are "islanding" /isolated from external. Even then you want to protect the current from being driven to Earth instead of Neutral. A good inverter will either do this for you or provide you with some form of dry contacts to install a relay.

Whilst on another post answering this question, I thought of a new idea to achieve this if your kit doesn't provide - An AC/DC convertor on the Municipal side only power (not fed by the invertor) that powers a cheap 12VDC normal closed car relay - Place a small (5A or under) fuse or breaker in between the bond and you can bond the E & N voltages together. You are not running current through this and the fuse/breaker will prevent that situation. That's a cheap and easily replaceable component situation. Alternately ask the Sparky to find you a 220VAC Normal Closed relay, with a 5A or less circuit breaker that can do the job in a more CoC friendly way, and this will bond the E & N when needed. Depending on your invertor switchover time, there is still a split second or more when power is returned from external, that your Neutral will float (110VAC) for a bit. On my old Axpert I never experience any issues with this temporary float.
As mentioned - Please don't do this bond without some protection (like a breaker/fuse) between E/N bond - You don't want either your power or your neighbours power to be travelling though your Earth circuit.

Either the inverter "drives" the E/N bond relay or it does it internally. If bonded permanently, and during bypass mode on the inverter, there develops a cable fault with the neutral interrupted,  a fault current would flow through the E/N bond and through the earth conductor back to the supply transformer (and not back via the N conductor). 

Inverter fed from main DB, not through an earth leakage. Output of inverter through an earth leakage. E/N bonding on output of inverter before earth leakage via an E/N bond relay if the inverter does not have such a function build in. Permanent E/N bond on output of inverter is not allowed as it would bond E/N of grid supply if inverter is in by-pass mode.

Hi Barry, I’m having the same issue with a 12kw 3 Phase SunSynk and 3 x UP5000 Pylons. I have upgraded the firmware and battery firmware’s and am still having the overvoltage alarms. Let me know when you find out please. Will let you know if I find anything too.

Have you checked your CAN cable is correct. PINS 1- 3 must not be connected at the battery end.

Do you have communication between batteries and inverter, meaning a CAN cable

Was just about to say this , its a typical problem if the batteries are not running the same firmware version.

I did hear Keith say that they are moving the servers to a new datacenter.  I wonder if this is the problem of the app not working correct..
 
 

I did hear Keith say that they are moving the servers to a new datacenter.  I wonder if this is the problem of the app not working correct..
 
 

Hi All
my add is not showing right.

Here is the screen on the Inverter.

must restart the WiFi unit?

Mine was also acting weird earlier. Said my battery was 0% when it was around 70%. Seems to have sorted itself out now.

Confirm also seeing the PV statistics not recording correctly.  Battery was dropping to 0% SOC intermittently.
Other stats now seem to be OK, just PV missing on both real-time and historical. Since 8:40 this morning (26/07/2022)

PV Graph missing post 8:30
Battery SOC = 0% intermittently
Battery discharge = 445kW 😏🙄

Mine did the same between 11:45 and 13:00 today(26 jul 2022). SOC showed 0% but on the battery and the physical sunsynk inverter it showed 100%. Glitch with sunsynk’s web portal?

Shows how we all have our eyes glued to our stats that we notice these issues so quickly.

😂 i was thinking the same. The stats app is quite addictive. 

Check your Message Box.

Must be 2.5mm2...
If you connect the panels in series using your current cable you will get around 4.32V voltage drop. which is 4.8% power loss.
So your panel Voc in series will be 90V minus the 4.32V your sitting at about 85V Voc. I would say that is plenty far enough away from the 100V max.
Alternatively, if you buy 2x 20m of 6mm2 cable and connect them in parallel you will get 3.6V voltage drop which (at 45V) is 8% power loss.
So even with the thicker cable you will be loosing almost double as much power than connecting in series.
Also, these voltage drop calculations are based on Voc. Since you will actually be seeing Vmp when the sun is shining on them, the percentage power loss will be even higher.
If you want to get power loss comparable to connecting them series but with a parallel connection, you will need at least 10mm2 cable.
 

The keto disconnect is very good product and I like to install them by the batteries to the inverter. 
This small fuse holders work well and you get dc breakers  for pv. 
 

Just remember to add disconnect fuse box DC Switch between the PV and Inverter.  extra safety is not wrong. 

I also have been running a 5kW Sunsynk off a single US3000C limiting charge/discharge to 37A with no issues. I also plan to install a second US3000C in the future.
It has been mentioned that Pylontech require more than one battery to be connected to the inverter for the warranty to be valid.  I have not seen this in any official Pylontech documentation, specifically it it not mentioned in their installation manual or their warranty documents. Personally, I am not convinced by the one reseller that I have seen who claims this. 
Having said that however I would also recommend the Hubble AM-2, it will give you more capacity, a higher C rating, and is way easier to install. Not sure what inverter you are planning, but a single AM-2 is nice match for a 5kW inverter. Try and push the budget a bit.

Hi
ok. cool maybe @Coulomb can help or someone. lol 🙂   
 
watchpowerv1.14

The guy at Sinetech who I discussed my setup with after running into issues said they shouldn't be equalized 

If you plug your tester into the generator on its own, does it pass?
Certainly, the generator will need to be earthed, but presumably that should happen when connected to the house. The house earth should be good enough; a separate earth rod should not be needed, I think (I'm no expert on generators though).

Ja, ja... 😂

Was there any lightning at the time the inverter popped? We have had some severe electrical storms the last few days.