Beat

Here the physics behind the problem: Pure copper has the bad habit to flow away under pressure with time. Aluminium even worse. This effect is extreme with those terminals where the bolt directly squeezes the wire. There the surface pressure is extremely high. They require re-tightening after a while. The copper will have flown into positions where it can less flow away and presents a better surface to the bolt. Terminals with indirect clamping are much better as they present a larger surface to the wire. When ever I have to open the DB or inverters I re-tighten all terminals.

Here the physics behind the problem: Pure copper has the bad habit to flow away under pressure with time. Aluminium even worse. This effect is extreme with those terminals where the bolt directly squeezes the wire. There the surface pressure is extremely high. They require re-tightening after a while. The copper will have flown into positions where it can less flow away and presents a better surface to the bolt. Terminals with indirect clamping are much better as they present a larger surface to the wire. When ever I have to open the DB or inverters I re-tighten all terminals.

Make sure all wire connection terminals are well tightened. Loose terminals with high current can heath up and the effect is worse with DC than with AC.
Also take in account that common circuit breakers are designed for AC. Their capability to break DC is limited to lower voltage. A not extinguished arc in a tripped breaker can put fire to the PV Combiner Box.

How about a simple diode? Only half wave gives you half power. It can be shorted by a switch for full power.
Diode would have to be for 400V and 10A. Probably will require a heath sink.

There is a way around it: Put a resistor in series with the starting motor and short it after the motor has come up to speed. Practically I could realize it like this:
Get an outlet box with a switch. Wire it such into the motor cable that the outlet is in series with the motor and the switch will short circuit the outlet. Connect a laundry iron (or any other heating appliance) to the outlet. With the switch you short circuit the iron outlet when the motor has reached speed. This arrangement will never draw more current than the naked iron.

You are on the right track. Battery voltage never lies. Therefor I let the inverters manage the charge on the base of battery voltage. No coms. I also have differences on SoC between packs. But they all jump to 100% SoC when reaching bulk charge voltage.
Various BMS have different algorithms to figure out SoC. One is to meter in and outgoing Ah. That method neglects internal losses of the battery and therefor reaches 100% Soc while the battery is still charging.

You are on the right track. Battery voltage never lies. Therefor I let the inverters manage the charge on the base of battery voltage. No coms. I also have differences on SoC between packs. But they all jump to 100% SoC when reaching bulk charge voltage.
Various BMS have different algorithms to figure out SoC. One is to meter in and outgoing Ah. That method neglects internal losses of the battery and therefor reaches 100% Soc while the battery is still charging.

I received PmodToolsV3.0.13 to monitor and change settings in LEOCH 48100S packs. It supports RS232 but monitors only the pack it is connected to. For monitoring the entire battery bank I was referred to PmodbusToos V1.20. This slightly different software supports RS485 and can monitor all packs connected to the RS485 bus individually by selecting the appropriate pack number. I have 3 48100TB and 3 48100S all connected parallel and on the RS485 bus. But on the 48100S packs it was necessary to change the protocol with PmodTools in order to activate the RS485 ports. I installed a RS485 data line (approx 7m) from the battery shack to my office where I monitor the batteries and inverters.

I would change your topic heading.
Also give details of the app your using.

Hi Normsolar, welcome to the forum.
Yes you can! As the alternator does the charge management for your car battery the inverter with the correct settings can do a perfect charge management on the base of battery voltage. That's the way I do it and it works fine for almost 5 years. I use RS485 only for remote monitoring of the batteries.

All the proposed uses I've seen for supercapactitors suggest that they are suited to applications where you will charge and discharge very often and need to do both very quickly. EG recovering braking energy in public transport vehicles that is then used to assist acceleration or pulling away from stops. They were also an early candidate for ERS systems in F1, but were either ruled out by regulations or were too bulky. Again this is an application where there would be frequent charge and discharge (2 minutes at a stretch for discharge, recharge and redeployment).

So I don't think they are good for an application (EG a home) where you will charge up over a few hours during the day, maybe sit at full charge for a few hours, then discharge slowly over several hours once the sun has gone down.

They don't even seem to be suited to EVs where, again, the expectation is a long charge followed by hours of some charging, yes, but a lot more discharging and not in bursts.

@GreenMonster the problem is not the incorrect SOC, but the cell imbalance.
Some of the cells have more charge than the others, which causes that their voltage goes up too quickly at the end of charging process.
You need to either discharge these cells a bit, manually using an incadescent bulb for example, or wait for internal balancer to do it for you.
The green SMD LED is not a cell warning light, it's an indication that internal balancer is working on that particular cell.
Just lower the charging current to 1A (bench LAB power supply would be great for this), or even stop it completely. Then wait a couple of hours for the balancer to do it's job.
Meanwhile, check the readings and lights.
Once the imbalance is solved, continue with the slow charging.
The SOC will reset to 100% automatically, once all the cells will reach cca 3,46V.

Keeps you on your toes and unless you like the flashing 00:00 times on you rmicrowave etc. which now don't occur, since it presumably is sitting on your power backed up side, now you have the pre-paid customer units making up for this 🙂

The same philosophy applies for batteries as does for inverters. In the attempt to have redundancy go for several smaller units in parallel rather than one big unit. I run two 5kW inverters in parallel with 6 100Ah packs LiFePo batteries. The max current the inverters (10kW) ever can draw is around 200A, that's some 0.33C.
There is another aspect to it: 100Ah, 4.8kWh packs wight around 45kg. 2 persons can handle this. A 200Ah pack would wight some 90kg. How would one handle that?

Hi BillyBob, welcome to the forum!
No, it will not generate 7.168kWh, but it can theoretically store that much. However be aware that you cannot practically use the full theoretical capacity as the BMS will go into alarm mode at 10% SoC at the lowest. In addition there are internal losses that reduce the usable capacity. Also conceive your system such that you prevent to charge or discharge at more than 0.5C on order to preserve battery life. (C is the relative battery current with respect to its Ah capacity. I.E 0.5C on a 100Ah battery would be 50A.)

Hi BillyBob, welcome to the forum!
No, it will not generate 7.168kWh, but it can theoretically store that much. However be aware that you cannot practically use the full theoretical capacity as the BMS will go into alarm mode at 10% SoC at the lowest. In addition there are internal losses that reduce the usable capacity. Also conceive your system such that you prevent to charge or discharge at more than 0.5C on order to preserve battery life. (C is the relative battery current with respect to its Ah capacity. I.E 0.5C on a 100Ah battery would be 50A.)

The same philosophy applies for batteries as does for inverters. In the attempt to have redundancy go for several smaller units in parallel rather than one big unit. I run two 5kW inverters in parallel with 6 100Ah packs LiFePo batteries. The max current the inverters (10kW) ever can draw is around 200A, that's some 0.33C.
There is another aspect to it: 100Ah, 4.8kWh packs wight around 45kg. 2 persons can handle this. A 200Ah pack would wight some 90kg. How would one handle that?

Are you fully off grid?
If not, then go with one larger inverter as apposed to two smaller inverters. 
You don't not need the redundency if you still have a utility supply. Should the inveter fail, all you need to do is switch over the change over switch and you are good to go.
Things to consider if you do decide on two smaller inverter as opposed to one larger one.
Paralelling inverters leads to additional complexities and ineffencies. Make very sure both are on the same firmware. Additional AC and DC wires causes additional ineffencies. Monitoring gets trickier, battery communication and set up is more complex.
By adding a 2nd inverter you are doubling you likelihood of having a failure.
An inveter can use anything between 75w to 100w to power itself. For 10 hours overnight that adds up to a lot. Multiply that but two if you want to paralell inverters. 
One larger inverter is usually more cost effecient (cheaper) compared to two smaller inverters. 
If you are offgrid with no utility supply it makes sense to go with 2 smaller inverters.

Hi Rivy, welcome to the forum.
The answer is NO! 2 smaller inverters in parallel are better than one big. Because like any other electronic device inverter will fail one day. If you have 2 you will be able to have light with the remaining one until the failed is repaired.
However when buying the additional unit must be identical and with the same firmware with the first in order to be able to be paralleled. That might be difficult to find after a while from the first purchase.

Hi Rivy, welcome to the forum.
The answer is NO! 2 smaller inverters in parallel are better than one big. Because like any other electronic device inverter will fail one day. If you have 2 you will be able to have light with the remaining one until the failed is repaired.
However when buying the additional unit must be identical and with the same firmware with the first in order to be able to be paralleled. That might be difficult to find after a while from the first purchase.

There's too many terms here 🙂 using the terminology I know, in your example the pool, oven and geysers are non-essential loads, and the plugs and, I'm guessing, lights are essential.

The essential loads are the ones that you decide must stay up through an outage.

Yours is a pretty common arrangement. Geyser and oven are usually the biggest loads in the home. The pool pump draws significantly less, but runs a long time, so you probably don't want that drawing from your battery.

Nop. If I state that I'm happy its because there is no strange behavior.

My system is off grid with 2x Axpert MKS 5K paralell. That may require some different settings than yours. My settings that may concern are:
Mode 01 SbU, 16 CSO (Solar will charge batteries as first priority), 31 SbE (Solar power balance enabled).
I'm happy with those settings.

I had similar problem with LEOCH batteries.  Finally Averge instructed that all packs must be parallel connected with RS485 and then to my laptop with a RS485/USB adapter.
The newest version of the 48100-S battery needs a protocol change to communicate with RS485. Important: set on each pack a different identification address on the dip switches.

Then add 3.5V, bulk charge voltage becomes 56.8V.