Hallo all

I have logged a enquiry with Hubble Support today, regarding my AM2 batteries discharging un-equally, resulting in the one battery's cycles to going out of sync. 

I have a 8kW Mecer Max II inverter, connected to 10x600w solar panels, and I use ICM as my solar management.

The solution from Hubble Support is the following:

Please may you kindly try the following,

Please check all the batteries are at the same level of charge and the dip switch settings are correct. If the batteries are not at the same SOC please charge each battery up individually as described below. If the batteries are at the same voltage and dip switches done correctly you may leave the batteries connected in parallel and kindly follow the instructions below.

1) Disconnect the CAN comms cable.
2) Change the battery type o the inverter to AGM V.
3) Please input the Float, Bulk and equalization Voltage at 53,6Vdc.
4) Please set the Low Voltage to 44Vdc.
5) Kindly charge up battery until the inverter stops charging the battery at 53.6Vdc, this may take some time as the battery will do a cell balance at full voltage.
6) Once inverter has stopped charging, kindly reconnect your CAN cable and go back into your inverter battery menu and activate the Lithium settings and CAN communications.

I am not sure I understand precisely what to do regarding step 6, and does the CAN cable refer to the cable connected to my ICM Raspberry Pi?

Please help a bean counter out 😳
 

11 minutes ago, Janosh said:

I am not sure I understand precisely what to do regarding step 6, and does the CAN cable refer to the cable connected to my ICM Raspberry Pi?

You are correct, CAN is a BMS communication protocol. It's the RJ45 cable that connects the BMS and inverter, I assume this is to stop the BMS from interfering with charging and let them settle while pushing the prescribed charging voltages.

13 minutes ago, Janosh said:

I am not sure I understand precisely what to do regarding step 6, and does the CAN cable refer to the cable connected to my ICM Raspberry Pi?

They are referring to the CAN cable between your Inverter and the Battery. 
Your cable to the Pi is irrelevant for this exercise, you can keep it connected and monitor

22 minutes ago, Janosh said:

Please may you kindly try the following,

Please check all the batteries are at the same level of charge and the dip switch settings are correct. If the batteries are not at the same SOC please charge each battery up individually as described below. If the batteries are at the same voltage and dip switches done correctly you may leave the batteries connected in parallel and kindly follow the instructions below.

1) Disconnect the CAN comms cable.
2) Change the battery type o the inverter to AGM V.
3) Please input the Float, Bulk and equalization Voltage at 53,6Vdc.
4) Please set the Low Voltage to 44Vdc.
5) Kindly charge up battery until the inverter stops charging the battery at 53.6Vdc, this may take some time as the battery will do a cell balance at full voltage.
6) Once inverter has stopped charging, kindly reconnect your CAN cable and go back into your inverter battery menu and activate the Lithium settings and CAN communications.

Refer to the last comment by @swazz99jhb in this thread 

And this is what is starting to annoy me with Hubble. Depending on who answers an email, if they do, they continue to dish out a suggestion based on personal preferences of the person answering the mail, or so it seems.
Just read what they told him, as once again the voltages suggested differ. And his battery is the original version, yet they gave him voltages that correspond to the Revision 2 models. 

 

It is because of all the various answers from Hubble that I am so confused. Thanks for the feedback. I will try and make some sense once at home and see where it brings me.

2 minutes ago, Janosh said:

It is because of all the various answers from Hubble that I am so confused. Thanks for the feedback. I will try and make some sense once at home and see where it brings me.

Let us know how it goes? If you still don't come right, just post a couple pictures of the setup and hopefully we'll be able to help you if needed 👍

5 minutes ago, Janosh said:

It is because of all the various answers from Hubble that I am so confused.

If you have the same info on your battery label as this one, then your email response contains the corresponding voltages and you can use them, i.e. your email contains the correct info.

15 hours ago, zsde said:

If you have the same info on your battery label as this one, then your email response contains the corresponding voltages and you can use them, i.e. your email contains the correct info.

My labels displays exactly this info, but the inverter settings differ from this.  Below is the current settings for my inverter:

Do I need to change the settings to what is on the battery label?

 

2 minutes ago, Janosh said:

Do I need to change the settings to what is on the battery label?

Your settings are all correct. The only slight difference is the cut off. The battery label states 42V and Hubble of late suggests 44V. I have not been able to establish if 42V is 0% SOC or 10% SOC. I suspect 44V is 20%. My Inverter is set to 20% and ever since I got my Hubble in Aug '21, it shut down twice due to the cut off. Once it restarted it always showed around 45V, so I assume the 44V is the 20% mark. The cut off does not come into play for the top end balancing in any case.
All your other settings seem fine to do the balancing with Voltage setting as they stand now.

Does the balancing happen over several days, or only in a couple of hours. I have notice a lot of switching between the two batteries when it is fully loaded, and I suspect this has to do with the balancing of the two batteries. It is the first time I have noticed this, but is now going on for several days.

The reason I have set the cut off to 45, is that Hubble recommends 44-45. My whole home electrical network is connected to the system, not only essentials, and I have yet to end below 50% SOC at any given time, so it does sometimes happen that the batteries supplies some power to heat the geyser, especially on cloudy days. I do however manage this so that the batteries don't work too hard.

Edited November 30, 20223 yr by Janosh

So the one on the far right is the RJ45 cable pin layout for the mecer Max 2 Can-Bus cable for the battery, using pins 2, 4 & 5

The inverter uses 6, 7 & 8 see further below

cloudlink & pin layout

PLEASE NOTE: Below are the recommended pin layouts for the Cloudlink to inverter cable connection. Custom RJ12 to RJ45 wire only - 450mm length. Ensure that the clip is pointed away from you when counting the pins.  The Hubble Lithium BMS pinouts are the same as the Cloudlink CAN pinouts.

PIN	CLOUDLINK S-PORT (RJ12)	INV-RS232 (RJ45)	CLOUDLINK - CAN (RJ45)	BATTERY-CAN (RJ45)
1	12V	N/A	N/A	N/A
2	N/A	GND	GND	GND
3	CLOUDLINK RX	N/A	N/A	N/A
4	CLOUDLINK TX	CAN-H	CAN-H	CAN-H
5	GND	CAN-L	CAN-L	CAN-L
6	N/A	N/A	N/A	N/A
7	-	N/A	N/A	N/A
8	-	GND	N/A	N/A

 

The end that plugs into the inverter has a different pin layout, and looks like a crossover connection. Is this correct?

22 hours ago, zsde said:

If you have the same info on your battery label as this one, then your email response contains the corresponding voltages and you can use them, i.e. your email contains the correct info.

I have the same label on my AM2. Connected a Cloudlink/RIOT and the Hubble technician could see exactly what is what. He still gave me 53.8V for Absorption/Float/Equalization. 

 

They gave me Firmware 1.50 which I updated using a SolarAssitant cable. Will see if this resolved my F56 problems. 

The support from @HubbleLithium was exceptional. Constant emails and phone calls with quick turnaround times.