swazz99jhb

Sunsynk 5kw with BSL 5kwh Slimline and 6 x 550w panels. New BSL has a 15 year warranty and 8000 cycles at 80% DOD. 6000 cycles at 100% DOD

One of the down sides of printing with ABS is that if you don't use an enclosure to maintain a high temperature, the print begins to warp due to rapid cooling.
This is with a 100°C print bed and 235°C nozzle temperature, cooling fans off.
As I recently moved in, I've yet to setup my enclosure.
The enclosure traps heat in which allows the print to gradually cool, preventing the print from warping. To try and minimize this further, I printed the Pi case with a 10mm brim to give the case more surface area to stick to the print bed.

It housed an 8Kw Sunsynk and 12.5Kw Felicity Battery for 2 years. Recently moved house and took solar with me.

Thanks, I have a 5kw Sunsynk at my old house I installed myself a couple of years ago at. 
Will definitely mke sure the CT is installed and installed correctly. Amazing how many gets installed incorrectly. 

@swazz99jhb will your Sunsynk be powering an offgrid or grid-tied property? Am hoping you are mindful or your installer is, of the need for a CT or Eastron Meter and how they intend to ensure you don't backfeed to grid during load shedding? Just food for thought.

I ended up using the Uniross LFP12-7HD on my D5 Evo and my pc UPS. 

Some interesting conversations about batteries and chargers 
 
I also been running around with problem solvong which are the best 
Garagedoor motors 2× 12 Vdc GEL (connected in series to make 24vdc ) was my solution to garagedoormotors  
I did a conversion with two Uniross lithuims ...build into a plastic IDS alarm box connected to the gatemotor (ETdrive 300) and had no problems so far ) 
For gatemotors ...lots of lithuims ...ended on Blue Nova (as it has a BMS ) and Uniross as well ....
 
Alarm systems rather go the GEL way ...2 × Gels connected in parallel will work better than any lithuim ...thats just my experience lot of suppliers say alot of different things (some would even tell you rather buy from them than any other supplier just to make sales...and thats just BS ) 
BUT there are suppliers that are honest enough to help to get the right advice and backup solutions...
 
Then again ...I advise my clients with the budget and bigger traffice gatemotors to rather go the solarpanel charging system with backup than going lithuim...bit more expensive but resolves so much more problems in the future 
George Venter 
FIXANDFIT SYSTEMS 
CAPE TOWN 
0736705866(if u need advice )

Securiprod lithium is working 100% on D5 EVO at friend's house. 

I started with a Sunsynk 5 and the Hubble AM2 and added panels later. 2 years later and I'm still happy. Had some issues with a dead cell in the Hubble, but the entire cell pack were replaced under warranty without problems. 

Hi all
So I come from an IT/Tech background, but never dabbled in Electronics/Electrical goodies.
During the December holiday period, we (my dad and I) came to the realisation that these Ellies/Mecer trolleys are useless with Lead Acid batteries after a couple of months. For our two households, it would not necessarily make sense (based on our own situations and evaluations - might not be the same for all) to install big systems (R60k+), and we ended up doing some research (hence the "some reading") to get to a comfortable cost vs. benefit solution. And this is what we came up with:
3KW 24V inverter
2 X 200ah LifePO4 batteries
Of course all the trimmings like fuses, holders, balancers, etc
Custom built trolleys with heavy duty wheels for both (My dad is a demon in a workshop, and has all the tools to DIY this :))
Next step will be to look at non-fixed solar panels for each of the boxes.
Its been an interesting journey thus far, and the knowledge picked up by wanting to do this is insane. It is like everyone always say: I learned more about Ohm's Law when I started vaping, than in my whole school career
 
I will share some pics when we get closer to the end result
Ciao

Afternoon All,
Just an update on my USB external fan to cool the inverter. Over the past year I have had to replace the fan twice. It just does not seem strong enough to run on a USB connection for 12 hours at a time.
So I have upgraded to one of these. It is R50 cheaper than the USB fan I bought at Pick-n-Pay and is mains supplied and is much more durable in construction. Yes, it's a bit louder but it does not matter as the inverter is in the garage. The do come in different sizes, but I bought the smallest of the range.
https://www.builders.co.za/Gas-%26-Appliances/Fans/Bathroom-Extractor-Fan/P-WORX-EXTRACTOR-FAN-4INCH-SQR/p/000000000000780366
I don't use this fan as an extracor of hot air, but rather still use it to blow air down through the back of the inverter. Getting the same low inverter temeperature readsings as with the previous USB fan so it is working well.
MdF
 

Well spotted, incorrect cable with DB9.
Has ordered the correct cable with RJ11/12.
All 3 batteries have old firmware and degraded capacity, with one showing ~50Ah/SoH 50%. All cells had normal voltage with little variation.
Call to be logged to upgrade firmware.

Which version of Windows? I used an old win7 laptop. Sounds like the wrong cable if you say it plugs into where the wifi dongle used to go. 
You need the RJ11/12 to usb. 
https://solar-assistant.io/shop/products/hubble_am

I think the version you have requires some .NET framework stuff.
Try the one from The Sun Pays
https://shop.thesunpays.co.za/pages/technical-support

Yes same cable. 

Basically a busbar is a copper plate. You connect all + terminals to one copper plate and all the - terminals to another copper plate. Then from there you take a cable to the inverter. Here is an example of one: Solarwize 1000A Bus Bar Combiner Box 10P

Sorry to say but Point 1 is a lie. My issues date between 22 November 2022 and 04 Januarie 2023
I had a cloudlink and had to buy a solarassistant cable so that I could do my own firmware update. With this cable and Pbmstools I had to advise them of the one cell draining to 2.9V vs all other sitting at 3.6V. Numerous tickets logged with them. 
Cloudlink is not worth the money in my experience. 

Sorry to say but Point 1 is a lie. My issues date between 22 November 2022 and 04 Januarie 2023
I had a cloudlink and had to buy a solarassistant cable so that I could do my own firmware update. With this cable and Pbmstools I had to advise them of the one cell draining to 2.9V vs all other sitting at 3.6V. Numerous tickets logged with them. 
Cloudlink is not worth the money in my experience. 

Here is a great example: 
 

Yip, RIOT was advertised as this awesome companion for the Hubble but it can't be used for remote firmware updates nor any useful data. Not even by Hubble themselves as I had one connected and they couldn't pinpoint the issue via it. 

My soc kept on dropping daily no matter how my pv or ac input.i changed the setting from soc to voltage on the ac charge setting and it got back to 100% for a few days and then conked.The final event was it burning out.

Yip, RIOT was advertised as this awesome companion for the Hubble but it can't be used for remote firmware updates nor any useful data. Not even by Hubble themselves as I had one connected and they couldn't pinpoint the issue via it. 

Yip, RIOT was advertised as this awesome companion for the Hubble but it can't be used for remote firmware updates nor any useful data. Not even by Hubble themselves as I had one connected and they couldn't pinpoint the issue via it. 

Had the same issue. Had a cell that would drian to 2.9V while all other sat at 3.6V. This caused the battery to switch off. 
I could see this using PbmsTools. 
Took it to Hubble in Modderfontein whom sent it to Cape Town for cell replacement. 
Holding thumbs all is good now.