Psy

Thanks @PsyCLown, appreciate the feedback. I am honestly thinking the SNA is going to be my better bet. I recently found out that one of the suppliers of Voltronics are having some issues with them and are probably going to stop importing them, so worries about service if I go with Infinisolar. So far I have only heard good things about the Luxpower so this little bit of extra confirmation makes me feel better about the decision. Thanks a mill!

Hey folks, hoping to get some opinions if anyone can share? So I am looking at getting an inverter in the next week or two, I have worked with these things for a while and have learned how important it is to chose the right inverter. I have worked with the Voltronics for years and I know how things can go wrong and how they can perform if used correctly. Recently another option has come up but I have no experience with them, I am either looking at an Infinisolar 5,6kW or a Luxpower SNA5000. I want to make sure that I have BMS communications and I want to monitor the system with SolarAssistant. Now I know the Inifisolar can do this but they are slightly more expensive and I know what a pain warranty claims can be depending on where you get it. The Luxpower is cheaper but is it going to be as good in quality? Any feedback or thoughts would really be appreciated.

Thanks for the help. it keeps giving the same issue... My concern is that is has something to do with the settings on the inverter but I am a complete noob when it comes to Deye inverters, never dealt with them too much in the past.

Hey, I am just wondering if anyone has run into this and perhaps found a solution... So this is a Deye 10kW 3P, connected via the BMS with a splitter to SolarAssistant. But it keeps giving a CRC error: The unit is reading and everything seems fine but it keeps giving this error and I cant seem to get it to go away... Anyone else seen this?

Hey, I've spoken to the SolarAssistant Devs and this is a bug they are aware of with the latest Beta. Another beta will be be published to address this along with a couple other small issues with the latest beta so just keep up to date and this should be fixed soon, luckily it's just a visual glitch and does not effect your ability to update once the new version is available.

Well, if you're looking for a system install you're going to need a qualified electrician to do a CoC anyway. Having them involved in the purchasing process means they can advise on the the kind of system you need and what needs to be included with the install, which often makes the process a lot easier. Often the average person will forget about fuses, arrestors, sub-DBs and all the small things that are needed to meet regulation.

Hey. while I don't know these specific units com port configurations, hos inverters and batteries have specific pins allocated to CANH and CANL or RS486A and RS485B and so on. Sometimes you're lucky and you can just wire them with a normal RJ45 but sometimes you need to cross wires etc which can be a pain. Just check the manuals and you will find the battery com pins and wire accordingly 👍

Sadly I do not, there isn't an email line that's open. You will have to talk to the place of purchase and there will be a line of contact from them up. I know its really frustrating to hear but go through the process and it usually leads somewhere

Ok, so there is a chance this is an odd software thing... but you would need someone a little more adept with the software, like @Coulomb, to confirm since I am a little more of a hardware person. However, that does sound a little long considering there's a cable connecting the two. I see you already flashed with firmware 2.1, it may be worth asking the people you purchased it from to ask the supplier about it? When I run into this kind of stuff I usually ask Voltronic to review and either advise or provide me with a firmware patch...

Well it's one of a couple high power floodlights I use as load, adding more lights as needed to see how inverts etc act under load. If you look at the power supply of the light, its basically a rectifier with voltage regulators... however, the MOV is before any of that stuff and burnt right through. Even the input resistors are burnt completely, reading as open circuit.

So, just updating this thread in case some runs into something similar... So it looks like it has to do with the way the inverter generates it's waveform. So looks like this unit is "simulated" sine wave, so not pure and found out the hard way. With the way the modified waveform, it picks up like 40% or more harmonics on the 3rd and 17% on the 7th. This combined with a light that doesn't have a power supply or transformer in it leads to instant burning... So when it comes to you lights, you can connect lights to a pure sine wave but connecting an LED light to a modified sine wave can end badly. It's not like every LED light on earth will pop on modified, but a lot of them don't have the power supply needed to handle being connected to modified sine waves.

Hey Stan, welcome to the forum! Yeah that sounds a little annoying, sorry to hear it, but communication taking it's time to update doesn't sound too far outside of the expected. I have seen units take like a minute to update the app, the information on the inverter should be a lot faster than that.. When you say slow to update, what are you considering slow?

Yeah, as @mzezmansaid you could probably get something like a 3kW Axpert pretty cheap... the real question here is what you want to run etc. So, if you're running a load of like 1-2kW then a 3kW Axpert will do the job and be more affordable than a Sunsynk. However, if you are dealing with 5kW or more of load then you may have to look into big units that get expensive anyway. I have checked and my TV, lights, internet and Android box use a total of like 500/600W so have those running through a small 1,6kW inverter and 2 gels batteries that cost like 7K for both the inverter and batteries. I have a gas plate and my geyser is large for 2 people so that stays warm enough to carry on with my life... If you are looking for cheap you will find cheap, you should be looking more for a solution that will fit your needs and then look for the cheapest option👍

Heya, these little inverters can be annoying... as mentioned by @BritishRacingGreensome additional info will go a long way here, since there are a million ways these could be operating so without seeing how it does things it's hard to help. I picture of the PCB will help, maybe do front and back if you can since they like to place the MOSFET drivers underneath the MOSFETs... However, I will tell you what I told someone else in another post... MOSFETs are sensitive and fickle, when one burns they all need to be replaced. If this is using a MOSFET rectifier, which many do but there are just as many that don't, then any micro-misalignment will cause the voltages to to move and the effects can stack. This could be why you're getting such little voltage... I was working on one of these, replaced the DC MOSFETs and the drivers popped. Replaced the drivers and the controlling IC popped, replaced that and turns out the AC MOSFETs were actually damaged with the initial pop even though none of them looked burned or damaged...

Hey @chrisc, not a bad idea and I like the thinking. However, if you want to do that make sure the meter is bi-directional. I learned the hard way, not all meters can measure voltage and current in both directions. I made a box to put between inverters and batteries to measure this stuff during testing and the meter I put in causes endless issues because it's one directional. The other thing is that you need to make sure that you have DC power to power up the meter so battery will be the best place to put it but PV is super unstable so you cannot do the same for PV. You do get some great Raspberry Pi projects that do the same thing and some, but you need to be comfortable with setting up and using a Raspberry Pi. Otherwise, is your inverter not able to export or display these values? Usually inverter software will show you all the values you want and they usually have an app or PC program that you can use to read them...