Howdy folks.

 

I currently have 2 OSRAM 36W fluorescent tube lights in my kitchen.

So I bought two of these to replace them with:

 

https://www.geewiz.co.za/led-tube-lights/35726-astrum-at8a124t-led-tube-t8-12m-18w-al-pc-clear-4000k.html

 

But they just wont switch on. on the top of the light it has a live and neutral indication, but neither on the light fitting or the osrams are there any type of markings for L or N.

 

Did I buy incompatible lights by any chance?

 

-G-

1 hour ago, gallderhen said:

Did I buy incompatible lights by any chance?

Did you replace that white round thing (I really cannot think of the name) with the green one that comes with the lights?

If you have transformers powering the tubes before, remove them. The LED tubes can work direct of 220v, without the green round thing.

1 hour ago, gallderhen said:

Did I buy incompatible lights by any chance?

I think the globes you bought will require some rewiring of the fittings which may require an electrician if you are not very familiar with electrical work. I believe they are a Chinese workaround and not quite the same as major brand equipment.

Basically remove/disconnect all internal infrastructure, then connect your new globes with Live only to one lamp holder and Neutral only to the other lamp holder of each globe.

2 hours ago, gallderhen said:

But they just wont switch on.

 

1 hour ago, pilotfish said:

Basically remove/disconnect all internal infrastructure, then connect your new globes with Live only to one lamp holder and Neutral only to the other lamp holder of each globe.

Doing what pilot suggested will solve the problem.  Had to do the same with all my fittings. Switch off the light. Disconnect all wiring except the live neutral and earth from the DB/Switch (Normally connected to the same connector block in the light). there is four lamp holders, two of them on one side will have four wires running to them On the other side there will be two long wires and normally a bridge. Forget about that side. Focus on the side with the 4 long wires. Disconnect these wires from where ever they are connected, but leave them connected to the lamp holders. One wire from each of these two lamp holders  needs to be connected to the supply neutral and the other wire from each to the Live. There is some writing on one of the tube ends. That side of the lamp needs to be inserted in the lamp holders that you connected to the power. Take care not touching Neutral and earth together even while the switch is off as that will trip the Earth leakage if your light circuits are connected to the earth leakage. 

3 minutes ago, Jaco de Jongh said:

Doing what pilot suggested will solve the problem.

Haha - I suggested something slightly different which worked on my globes! Remember that this is Chinese kit we are talking about - there is no standard that they stick to, but once up and running they work well.

On my globes one end in live and the other end is neutral, if you take L+N to one end as per your diagram then it shorts out and trips the CB (no damage to globe).

 

If you have a multi-meter then measure the ohms between the two pins on one end, if high then use Jaco method, if very low (short circuit) then use my method - GOOD LUCK!

Hey everyone,

 

Thanks for all the info and suggestions. I'm glad I didn't spend all that money for nothing.

I'm a very accident prone when it comes to electricity, so I'm going to get my electrician that did our CoC to come do what you suggested

 

-G-

2 hours ago, pilotfish said:

Haha - I suggested something slightly different which worked on my globes! Remember that this is Chinese kit we are talking about

Never saw those. I am on my third brand in 3 years. Last brand if stick to because I liked them most. I am so use to doing it this way I dont even read whats written on the tube end anymore. Just today I had to convert 7 fittings and had some left over tubes in the vehicle, Went and checked them and couldn't help laughing at myself.

Found this on the box

And this on the tube end

 

Please just see if you see any markings like this on the one's you bought. It should show your electrician what is needed. 

 

 

 

 

  

8 hours ago, gallderhen said:

I currently have 2 OSRAM 36W fluorescent tube lights in my kitchen.

I dont know these , but being Osram  astrum I  know  think they will be good.  

Just as a matter of interest, you should be very impressed by the quality of light, over time a normal tube looses its intensity and turns yellow. Ive been running 2 Led Tubes in the same room as 2 normal tubes for about 2 and a halve years at work. Last month we replaced the normal tubes for the second time, because the difference in light intensity as well as color difference becomes so big that no one can stand it any more. Every body walking into the office immediately ask " Whats wrong with that light" . In the office next door I kept 4 normal tubes and because the degrading rate on all four tubes are the same, the occupants only started complaining when the light gets so bad that they can hardly see in there.  After proving  that,  all tubes gets replaced with LED one's once its time for replacement. 

 

 

This is what they say on the tube:

 

Line 3 reads "Power 18W", FYI.

 

-G-

41 minutes ago, gallderhen said:

Line 3 reads "Power 18W", FYI.

Thanks, yours are then the same as what i am use to, power only on one side. I use the 18Watt 4000k also, and for specific applications i prefer the 24Watt 6000k. 

Thanks for the pick. 

On 2018/09/01 at 4:39 PM, gallderhen said:

so I'm going to get my electrician

@gallderhen, did you come right, lights working..

1 hour ago, Jaco de Jongh said:

@gallderhen, did you come right, lights working..

He's a bit busy at the moment, but he said he'll definitely swing by next week to come check it out. Will report then about what happened.

 

-G-

On 2018/09/01 at 6:20 PM, Jaco de Jongh said:

Found this on the box

I just took a closer look at the image you posted...

... and started to scratch my head!

They show the 2 pins shorted out on the left connected to the one driver terminal, and the 2 pins shorted out on the right connected to the other driver terminal - and then instruct you to connect L+N across the shorted terminals on the right!

So it seems that my lamps follow the line diagram and your lamps follow the terminal letters - eish

6 hours ago, pilotfish said:

... and started to scratch my head!

Don't be too confused by Chinese printing, this one shows it better. 

 

My fluorescent tubes died on me so I replaced with LED tubes directly from 220V mains supply.There are two wires twisted together and one single wire coming out of ceiling.Markings on tubes are inserted into fittings with power supply - alas No power flowing through tubes.

I connected wires to end of fluorescent in one end to fit.led tubes.printing on tubes on supply end yet.lightsmnot working

Hi ,did you disconnect the starter and connect the wires coming in from ceiling to your LED light?

On 2025/04/07 at 8:34 PM, Martin58 said:

I connected wires to end of fluorescent in one end to fit.led tubes.printing on tubes on supply end yet.lightsmnot working

You need the special starter that is mostly connected on the 1 end of the tube to replace the existing starter to allow 220V to the LED tube. This only if you have a old style ballast that was not quick start without a starter.

17 hours ago, Scorp007 said:

You need the special starter that is mostly connected on the 1 end of the tube to replace the existing starter to allow 220V to the LED tube. This only if you have a old style ballast that was not quick start without a starter.

May 5, 2024 comment_203216

On 2024/05/04 at 12:14 PM, Scorp007 said:

All other LED tubes have the L and N on one side normally marked power and no connection on the other side 2 pins. 

Those are the ones I always use. The other side 2 pins are shorted together internally which enables the tube wiring to accomodate either way round fitting.

It's not a special starter, it's a fuse (i.e a short) and it's there to complete the circuit without having to rewire the flourescent fitting.

1 hour ago, Thunderdolt said:

It's not a special starter, it's a fuse (i.e a short) and it's there to complete the circuit without having to rewire the flourescent fitting.

This special starter is what you call a fuse or short circuit. I mentioned it as special as it is not the normal starter. It just makes it easier that you don't have to bridge out the 2 wires. For this reason it is normally supplied with the tube.

We are both on the same page😀

On 2025/04/10 at 1:14 PM, AM786 said:

Hi ,did you disconnect the starter and connect the wires coming in from ceiling to your LED light?

Yes sir