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pilotfish last won the day on November 11 2018

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About pilotfish

  • Birthday 02/05/1963

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    Randpark Ridge

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  1. Nope, the battery is a commercial unit with bms, inside a steel box with cells firmly secured, with a circuit breaker that is turned off so that the terminals on the front are dead - off course if you dragged it from JHB to Durbs behind your vehicle then there might be some problems.
  2. ...and apologies for the spelling mistake in the title
  3. Hi all Durbanites, I have a client in JHB who is moving to Durban in the new year. I recently (before lockdown) installed an Axpert VP5 and Narada 48v 100Ah LiFePO4 battery as grid backup (no PV), last week I stripped the equipment out as he will be taking it with him down to Durb's. He has asked me if I can recommend anyone in Durban to re-install, which I cant so I am asking you! Anyone that has had a happy experience with a grid backup installation - preferably involving Axpert inverter - please send me a PM with the installer details that I can pass on to my client. Tha
  4. I think it is time for you to do that again and let us know!
  5. MPPT#1 will be a WRND 48v/30amp and MPPT#2 will be a WRND 12v/40amp. I have used a couple of WRND units in the field for charge only applications (no inverter requirements) and have had no comeback issues - I was able to order with conformal coating and adjust voltages to suit my lithium charge profile which swayed my decision to go with these units (and they are pretty cost effective which didnt hurt either).
  6. To simplify the above - ask your supplier what your 95% SOC voltage is (or check your battery literature), set bulk and float both to this voltage.
  7. Try lowering your bulk and float voltages on the batteries (speak to your supplier!). So what is probably happening is the following; Your float bulk/float voltage is at max, triggering the BMS to block any further charge current, You have a high inverter load being carried by the PV panels, The load then drops (eg kettle shuts off), The MPPT takes a moment to respond to the lower load requirement and would normally dump this excess power into the battery bank - but cant P=VI, so with nowhere to send the amps, the voltage must climb Your inverter sens
  8. ...not without reason tho. The 48v is for the 48v windlass and water-maker, and because it makes a great main battery, The 72v alternator is needed to be able to charge the 48v main battery, The 12v is because all critical systems nav/comm/bilge/etc run on 12v and would cost R100'sK to change, The 24v starter battery is because grunt needed to start the 120hp Perkins, The 220v is for RSA/Europe shore power and charging when available, The 110v is for USA shore power and charging when available. As for "Radio Shack", there is VHF for short range comms
  9. I like to keep my options open You left out 220v from MPPT/Inverter #1, and 110v from MPPT/Inverter #2!!!
  10. Hi All, long time since I have been active on the forum So I have a question for the more electronically enabled minds out there - I need to upgrade the power on a decades old yacht that will be cruising oceans without regular access to shore power. Referring to the attached line diagram you will see that there is 1.15kWp of solar which will charge a 48v 4.8kWh Lithium bank via MPPT (there are 2 heavy loads - a windlass to raise/lower the anchor (1.2kW) and an RO water-maker (1.2kW) - these will both be 48v in order to limit high currents otherwise required). There is also a 72v 60a
  11. Hello Pilotfish,

    You seem to know a lot about GeyserWise products.

    I have two geysers, each with its vacuum tube panels, connected in series. The first geyser is powered from my solar power system (with the element in off). This feeds the master geyser which is powered by ESKOM and where the element kicks in if the temperature goes below 45 degrees. Most of the time the water is nice and warm.

    This is my problem:

    Lately the first geyser (which is on solar power) switches itself off or goes into a phase where it slowly comes on and goes off again. I have tried to attach a video of what happens but I am not sure if it worked.

    I emailed GyserWise and they said I must send them a phone number and they will phone me. Didn't happen and I couldn't get hold of someone that wanted to help me.

    Any ideas?

    Can you point me in a direction where I will be able to find an answer.



    1. pilotfish


      Apologies for the slow reply, I have been hectic for the last while and seldom make it onto the Forum.

      I have not previously seen that odd pulsing that you are getting on your display, but it looks like supply voltage fluctuating. How do you power this system? If it is powered via PV panel and battery then I would suggest checking the battery as this is a common failure point.

      If AC powered then it is probably failure of the controller, but go through all cabling and connections 1st.

    2. Goedman


      Thank you sir pilotfish,

      I just checked the connections to see that they are OK. Didn't find anything wrong or out of place.

      I don't know what, where or how but that panel stopped its nonsense and behaved normally ever since.

      Thank you.

  12. Because you are feeding the inverter from an E/L circuit in your grid DB, and you have connected N-E on the outputs which is an earth fault. I hope the attached sketch is legible, my CAD skills are a touch lacking (I can do it but it will take the whole day!)
  13. Take a look at Annex P.4 starting on page 361 of SANS 10412-1:2017 ed2 I sadly cant share this with you because my scanner has recently croaked and I haven't got around to sorting it out, but in summary you should bond your main E terminal (from earth bar in Main DB) to your inverter N terminal (at the inverter) which will prevent your floating voltage situation. The earth conductor should be a minimum of 50% size of the Live conductors. This should be done before the inverter output Earth Leakage which I am sure you have installed. So as an example if you run a 50amp 10mm L/N f
  14. I think something like the following is happening; the PV system is supplying loads and charging batteries, then a high AC load exceeds the inverter happy place causing the system to switch to grid (until the load drops again), the system then dumps the momentary excess PV capacity into the batteries, causing the battery voltage to spike while the MPPT adjusts to the lower requirement. I wouldn't be too concerned until you see smoke.
  15. Replace and carry on - fuses will often blow at lower than rated currents as a result of heat build up from other sources. Make sure your terminals are tight, wire not too thin or annealed, fuse terminal gripping tightly.
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