gallderhen

I think the kind of people that can afford Freedom Won batteries, are not the kind that hang around on these forums, but the kind that trust their installers to "make it work" 🙂
 
-G-

Thanks for the explanations 🙂
 
-G-

Very much possible, just inefficient.
You would be doing double conversion the whole time AC-DC-AC.
This would also make your potential charging current pretty bad, let me explain.
Say your loads are 150W AC
You go and buy a 12/30 Bluesmart charger.
So now you have 30A of charging current, not too bad, except  you will use around 12A (150W / 13.5V =  11.1A But there are also inverter efficiencies to take into account) just powering your loads.
So only the remaining 18A can be used for charging, obviously this quickly spirals out of control as your loads increaase, if your loads are say 300W
You will be using 22A of the chargers 30A capacity only power your loads, and there will only be 8A left for charging.
If your loads are say 400W you would need the entire capacity of the charger simply to keep the loads powered, and you won't have any real charging happening.
 
I would say go with a busbar because then you can easily fuse the connection going to the battery. 

So what you're saying is to point your front-loader 45 degrees upwards 😂
 
-G-

So what you're saying is to point your front-loader 45 degrees upwards 😂
 
-G-

Actually I think it is pretty good.  You clearly haven't seen most electrician's work.  You don't really need to worry too much about putting this in a container except to prevent people from messing with it.  These batteries you bought are pretty much sealed and being open you would be able to see if they start bulging, etc.  My only gripe would be to reduce that wire length between the two batteries with the fuses.
 

Thanks for all the suggestions 🙂
 
He said its only a fiber OTN, a mikrotik router, a 5port switch and a wifi PoE injector for the wifi, so Im guessing below 50W ( if its even that much) at rough 1 amp per device.
 
-G-

You get plugs with the inverter for both the input and the output.
You can hook it into the DB if you really want to, maybe just sub circuits. See this install for example.

Same with me.
 
When I lived in Randburg, one morning I had freezing-water only (during winter) and thought the thermostat on the geyser died. Got an electrician out who eventually found the problem at the ripple-relay that never switched the geyser back on again. Bypassed it and all was well again.
 
-G-

Hi,
 
If you have an Empire Hexing prepaid meter, you can hit 808 + enter to get the power-draw at that very moment (like when the poolpump and the washing machine and the tumble dryer and the geyser is running at the same time).
 
Otherwise try to borrow a power-meter like Efergy or Owl from someone, hook it over the main power cable in your DB and start measuring.
Just know that you only measure over that particular cable, unlike mine where I have 3 DBs distributed on the property and thought that City Power was shafting me 😋
 
-G-

Hi,
 
If you have an Empire Hexing prepaid meter, you can hit 808 + enter to get the power-draw at that very moment (like when the poolpump and the washing machine and the tumble dryer and the geyser is running at the same time).
 
Otherwise try to borrow a power-meter like Efergy or Owl from someone, hook it over the main power cable in your DB and start measuring.
Just know that you only measure over that particular cable, unlike mine where I have 3 DBs distributed on the property and thought that City Power was shafting me 😋
 
-G-

Thought I'd share the experience a bit
So my parents decided to go solar on the geyser, but they live in the northern side of Pretoria where it gets extremely hot in summer (36C in the shade).
The feared that this would mean that the normal flat panel and evacuated tube systems wouldn't work (or rather work too well) . So they agreed upon the Geyserwise PV installation.
Installed are 4 260W panels, connected to a little inverter, which is then connected to a Titanium element for the 150L geyser.
 
They say it reaches about 60-70 degrees during the day, and around 5am its still sitting at 52 degrees.
 
-G-
 

Thought I'd share the experience a bit
So my parents decided to go solar on the geyser, but they live in the northern side of Pretoria where it gets extremely hot in summer (36C in the shade).
The feared that this would mean that the normal flat panel and evacuated tube systems wouldn't work (or rather work too well) . So they agreed upon the Geyserwise PV installation.
Installed are 4 260W panels, connected to a little inverter, which is then connected to a Titanium element for the 150L geyser.
 
They say it reaches about 60-70 degrees during the day, and around 5am its still sitting at 52 degrees.
 
-G-
 

If its all about safety, why then does the application ask you your utility consumption figures, hmmm...😏
 
-G-

They're good, but VERY expensive.
I've been using one since 2003, just replacing the filter each year, and I feel I'm getting my money's worth though.
 
-G-

This is what they say on the tube:

 
Line 3 reads "Power 18W", FYI.
 
-G-

This is what they say on the tube:

 
Line 3 reads "Power 18W", FYI.
 
-G-

Our geyser burst about a week ago, and I decided to go ev-tubes solar. Had my Efergy monitor going the whole time, and I'm happy to report that even in winter, we're down by about 4-6KW a day just because of going solar on the geyser. And on the bonus-side, I have hot water even if there are power failures
 
-G-

Our geyser burst about a week ago, and I decided to go ev-tubes solar. Had my Efergy monitor going the whole time, and I'm happy to report that even in winter, we're down by about 4-6KW a day just because of going solar on the geyser. And on the bonus-side, I have hot water even if there are power failures
 
-G-

Our geyser burst about a week ago, and I decided to go ev-tubes solar. Had my Efergy monitor going the whole time, and I'm happy to report that even in winter, we're down by about 4-6KW a day just because of going solar on the geyser. And on the bonus-side, I have hot water even if there are power failures
 
-G-

Don't know about the ones from the china mall, but the one I got from eBay is very good (pics attached of off and on).
 

Thought I'd share the experience a bit
So my parents decided to go solar on the geyser, but they live in the northern side of Pretoria where it gets extremely hot in summer (36C in the shade).
The feared that this would mean that the normal flat panel and evacuated tube systems wouldn't work (or rather work too well) . So they agreed upon the Geyserwise PV installation.
Installed are 4 260W panels, connected to a little inverter, which is then connected to a Titanium element for the 150L geyser.
 
They say it reaches about 60-70 degrees during the day, and around 5am its still sitting at 52 degrees.
 
-G-
 

Thought I'd share the experience a bit
So my parents decided to go solar on the geyser, but they live in the northern side of Pretoria where it gets extremely hot in summer (36C in the shade).
The feared that this would mean that the normal flat panel and evacuated tube systems wouldn't work (or rather work too well) . So they agreed upon the Geyserwise PV installation.
Installed are 4 260W panels, connected to a little inverter, which is then connected to a Titanium element for the 150L geyser.
 
They say it reaches about 60-70 degrees during the day, and around 5am its still sitting at 52 degrees.
 
-G-
 

Hi,
I once did a calculation of expenses vs Eskom. If you take a modest 6% increase in Eskom tarrifs and a modest 6% increase year on year for equipment, then assume that your equipment will last 20 years (with proper care), and we assume that your monthly Eskom bill is R700, you're expenses on solar equipment bought should not exceed R160k or something like that. And thats R160k cash, not financed.
 
That should save you enough money to get you ahead of the curve and pay for the next replacement in 20 years time, theoretically.
 
-G-

You might pay R16k now, but according to Carl's file on the Naradas (http://powerforum.co.za/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=781) they'll only last you 1500 cycles at 20% DoD (which is about 2.4-2.5 years if you cycle every day), so after 10 years (which is what companies claim a lithium would last you at 100% DoD), you would have spent R64k in the end.
 
-G-