Jump to content

Rclegg

Members
  • Posts

    143
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Rclegg's Achievements

  1. I still have ICC. But I don't use it for anything more than a bridge between Home Assistant and the Inverter. I use my own dashboards and NotRed for automations that control the inverter over MQTT.
  2. Its fair to say OP isn't around and batteries are probably long gone.
  3. Then yes, you should be cycling the batteries every day. LiFePO4's don't like staying 100% all the time. I cycle mine daily to 20%. But check what your battery specs are and look at the DoD spec.
  4. What batteries do you have? Different batteries types have different requirements.
  5. Each battery keeps it's own cycle count. I have three Pylontechs and they all have different cycle counts as they were installed at different times. There is no issue to adding a new battery to the bank, as long as you make it the master in the bank.
  6. Without more information; I'd say they're working correctly. The manual will also tell you all you need to know about the lights.
  7. It's possible to do this via software instead. ICC being one of them. I believe they cover most Axpert inverters.
  8. No need to be so rude. Just trying to help. Sorry I misunderstood your issue.
  9. I believe your understanding of how the inverter works might differ to how it actually works. Your inverter settings shouldn’t need to be changed to get the maximum PV generation. My last question to you was what are you expecting from this inverter? I’ve explained before that your PV generation will match your load 99%. This includes charging of batteries. So if your batteries are charged and the load is only 2kw. Your generation will only be 2kw… From your last graphs; this is what is happening and is completely normal.
  10. No. Mixing battery types like that is not recommended at all. US3000 is good for daily use and backup. No need to have other types of batteries connected.
  11. You can get valves on the hot outlet that introduces cold water when the tap is opened to avoid this situation. I normally heat my geyser to 62c. But today it went to 73c due to excess PV available. But yes make sure family knows that water can be very hot.
  12. Are you expecting the inverter to give you maximum PV until the sun buggers off?
  13. So it looks like its due to the batteries being charged (Looking at your last post) The inverter will only draw as much power from the PV as the demand requires. No more. So, if you had a constant 700w load all day on the inverter and batteries were 100% SoC; PV will be clipped to this. Where else must all that extra energy go? You'll note that your battery reached 100% SoC at around 12:00 - roughly the same time your PV dropped off or started "clipping" - this is normal.
  14. I use a D1 Mini connected to a geyser wise thermostat. Which is then connected to Home Assistant and automations are controlled via NodRed. The geyser wise has a 90c fail-safe hard cut off too, incase the HA/NR setup is down for whatever reason.
  15. I have something similar setup for my geyser on the PV. I run the geyser when there is enough sun available and min SOC is above 35%. The automation for the geyser is to run it till it reaches 62c. Then it turns off for the rest of the day. It will then turn back on once battery SOC is above 97% and run for the afternoon period to boost it more and use up any available PV left for the day. 200L electrical geyser with a. 2KW element in there. I'm going to look at the sensor you mentioned, would be nice to know outlet temp of geyser and see how that corresponds to average temp measured by the thermostat.
×
×
  • Create New...