Thunderdolt

Go to Google maps, type in 26 Tsenin Road, click on the picture.
They are obviously cheap because of low overheads, literally and figuratively. /S
Delivery is probably by express taxi.
Sorry, I couldn't resist.

You mean this at the top right? Only saw it now when you mentioned there is a link at the bottom and saw it had the same icon 😅

Insert existing attachment We can't both win! 😆

Address is a serviced office... no telephone number???
If prices are too good to be true then maybe they are.

Address is a serviced office... no telephone number???
If prices are too good to be true then maybe they are.

It housed an 8Kw Sunsynk and 12.5Kw Felicity Battery for 2 years. Recently moved house and took solar with me.

Put in a wireless switch with the correct amperage on the line to the pump and give everyone access via their smartphone.
Qwikswitch.co.za have a good solution re wifi switches and wifi extenders and remote bridges.
 

I would disconnect your outlet pipe and see how it runs with the 20/25mm diameter outlet un-restricted. If the flow is still very weak then disconnect the inlet and see if the flow from the jojo is what you expect. If all appears normal then your controller is the likely culprit, you can replace the internal pcb for about R250 if you have trouble with the supplier re warranty.
FYI : The controller detects pressure drop to turn on pump. Once pressure restores to pumps spec. i.e. 4bar, the pumps internal switch will turn it off.

From : https://www.felicitysolarsa.co.za/battery-communicate-with-inverters#dm Voltronic/Kodak/RTC Inverter
1. Prepare a communication cable: you can make it yourself, the pin out of the cable is 5,6(Battery)→3,5(Inverter) 2. Plug one side(pin 1,2) of the communication cable on BMS port on these brand inverter, plug the other side of the communication cable(namely pin 5,6) on any communication port on Felicitysolar battery. 3. Setting steps on inverter: Setting→14→PYL. 4. Sign of successful communication: Can check the battery SOC on inverter   If your cable is correct maybe support at the above link can help.

They are not cheap but I have used these products, saves chasing walls etc.:
https://www.qwikswitch.co.za/
Can use a remote and or wall switch to have one switch/remote for multiple lights/devices or multiple switches/remotes for one light/device.
 

Question time:
Is your EL between your inverter and the load? It must be after your inverter, it is not there to protect your inverter.
What type of EL do you use and how old is it? I found a CBi type B  EL/RCD gives zero nuisance trips, they are expensive but worth it. 
You say the EL keeps on tripping even with all the breakers are tripped? Then the fault carries through on the neutral circuit.
Do you have access to a meggar? 
Are there any elec motors on the circuit? Motors and old fluorecent ballasts have a tendancy to can become a bit of a problem.
Faultfinding: If the EL is currently tripping:
REMOVE /UNPLUG all the plugs and try to switch on. Still tripping:
Switch off the main supply and all the breakers, disconnect all the black wires on the neutral bar, switch power back on, don't switch on the individual breakers, reset EL, now push the black wires one by one against the neutral bar.
If the EL trip you have found the possible culprit circuit then you have to see what is all on that circuit.
If the EL still doesn't trip you might have a couple of small earth leakings which all then ads up to become more than the allowded total trip rating of 30mA.
NB the power is on in the db as you are pushing the black wires against the bar, do not electrocute yourself. 
If you don't feel up to it,  please get outside professional help. It is a pain in the ..... to find a dissappearing earth fault.
Happy hunting. 

From : https://www.felicitysolarsa.co.za/battery-communicate-with-inverters#dm Voltronic/Kodak/RTC Inverter
1. Prepare a communication cable: you can make it yourself, the pin out of the cable is 5,6(Battery)→3,5(Inverter) 2. Plug one side(pin 1,2) of the communication cable on BMS port on these brand inverter, plug the other side of the communication cable(namely pin 5,6) on any communication port on Felicitysolar battery. 3. Setting steps on inverter: Setting→14→PYL. 4. Sign of successful communication: Can check the battery SOC on inverter   If your cable is correct maybe support at the above link can help.

Hi all,
my house is not ideally oriented for solar harvesting. It has a large 26° roof slope oriented 60° to Northwest (300°) and a small slope Northeast (30°). I installed 4 arrays (3s) on the large Northwest slope and one array on the Northeast slope. So I harvest some in late morning from the Northeast slope (few in winter) and the main part starting about 13h from the Northwest slope. The 26° tilt is too slow for winter sun, it should be 45°. But that would require important support structure and expose the panels to the winds.
So I decided to install an array vertically on my windowless Northeast face. The result is amazing. I get almost full power from them from about 09h in the morning until 13h. It is electrically in parallel connected with the Northeast roof mounted. During these winter months the sun remains low therefor shines at a good angle on the vertical panels but less favorable on the roof panels. On the other hand being low the solar radiation is weakened by having a longer pass trough the atmosphere. As the season goes on the sun gets higher, thus the radiation angle becomes less favorable but on the other hand the radiation becomes more intensive. I am amazed.

"Decoration" of my Northeast face. Looks almost like windows. The small door on the left bottom is the access to the shack where the inverters and batteries are installed. If someone is interested in the DIY mounting structure just let me know, I'll be happy to share.

Firstly...I am NOT a plumber.
A few months back I was called by a neighbor to look at his setup which mirrored the OP issue. Hot water too cold.
On inspection I found that there is a THERMOSTATIC mixer valve which blends the hot and cold to a set output temperature and has to be installed (by statute?) on all new installations. Since his water supply is low pressure, I advised him to replace the high pressure thermostaic valve, that was installed by the plumber, with a low pressure one. Since I have had no feedback from my neighbor I  assume that fixed his problem.
Maybe see if you have a thermostatic valve in your system and if it is the correct one re water pressure and if it is correct whther it can be adjusted to increase the output temperature, which I am led to believe is possible on most of these devices.

For the time your inverter/battery/genset are unavailable would be my guess.

So just an update, I think I solved the problem.
As I suspected my N-G bond contactor de-energized (creating the N-G bond on the output) before inverter released its grid relay. Just enough to create two N-G bonds and therefore the output RCD tripped.
So I got a "true" delay off timer. They call these "true" because it has some sort of internal capacitor to hold a small current for the delay time, when power is lost. 
Other off-delay timers exist, but they need an external source of power for internal timer to work.
The off-delay timer holds the N-G bond contactor powered (open) for a few seconds, giving the inverter time to release it's grid relay.
Now the RCD doesn't trip anymore when I simulate a grid-down situation by turning off the grid breaker.
Here is the model I got (JSZ3F with DIN-rail backplate):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32969613011.html
The only downside is that it's a bit bulky for the DB, had to cut out some of the plastic for it to fit.

 
Thanks for all of your inputs.
I hope this helps others too.

Problem solved. The guys who came to fix the other issue moved the CT Coil. All fixed again.

Hello Everyone 
I thought this might be worth a read for you - https://itssolar.co.za/water-heating/a-comparison-of-pv-solar-thermal-gas-and-heat-pump-water-heating-systems/
 

Those are the ones I always use. The other side 2 pins are shorted together internally which enables the tube wiring to accomodate either way round fitting.

The ballasts are for 2 x 1500mm tubes:

There are 8 and I am near Richmond KZN

How about removing the lights from the earth leakage all together...Plugs are legally required to be placed onto an RCD. Lights are not a must. 
 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA  

Looks like the solar power is not enough for both charging the battery and house loads. You can reduce the loads to see if it continues to draw from the grid