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Peter Topp

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Peter Topp last won the day on April 21

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  1. Hi To be specific. The piping by the heat exchanger on the roof not the piping or pump in the roof .
  2. Hi There is one drawback or caution on a solar circulation pump not connected to a control circuit. When it very cold <0 degrees and the water in the pipes can freeze. In a solar setup without control the pump will not circulate if there is no sun. In this case you could damage your pipes. I would be hesitant to do this unless the temp never drops below 3 degrees. Most modern solar water systems circulate the warm water from the geyser when the temp on the roof is < 3 degrees to combat any damage from freezing the water in the pipes. For myself personally I would ins
  3. This instant water to use and not standing water in a geyser.
  4. Hi I also have the same setup and found my gas use quite high at 2.5 months on a 48kg bottle. I used to set my water temp at 60 degrees and now have turned it down to 50 degrees at the lowest setting. This is ideal for me as I do not need to add any cold water to shower. The 10 degrees in gas saving if you do the calculations should be a substantial saving for me on the water heating side. I now get more than 3mths out of my 48kg bottle. I know this only works if you have geyser that can be adjusted for temp.
  5. Hi Well the 510w is better than the originally quoted 350w which is 89.4% of max. The panels are not tracking the sun so the peak values will change according to the sun angle to the panels and of course temperature as mentioned by Gerrie on a hot sunny day.
  6. Hi That is correct you should use wire that is 4mm squared or thicker. As there are only 2 panels in series that give about 10amps max and about 64volts. If the wire was 2mm squared the resistance would be about 0.0083ohm/m. If the wire length was 50m the resistance of the wire would be 0.42ohm. The volt drop would be 4.2v which would be (64v-4.2v)= 59.8v. A drop of 6.5% for copper wire. So it does make a difference. It would only be 2.1volt 3.25% for 4mm squared wire. If the wire was 2mm squared it still would not make up for the for that large loss.
  7. Yes That is clear and was understood from the beginning.
  8. Hi I agree with Gerrie. You would need to have a manual change-over switch and switch off all non essential circuits to keep the power under 5Kva. You could also split up you essential circuit further and put the critical items on that circuit under 5Kva which can run off the inverter continually and switch over automatically.
  9. Hi The correct angle as far as I have read up should be about 26 degrees or a little more as you are further South. North facing. I guess wiring of 2mm squared or larger should not cause a problem with a volt drop. I am curious how you measured the max to be about 350w.
  10. Hi After I decided to make my home smarter. I replaced all my light switches to with Eachen ( no neutral required) as my house has no neutrals in the light switches. You need to install a capacitor in the first light for it to work (.33 mf or bigger which is supplied). I also put switches on all my side lamps, garage door, gate motor, electric fence, irrigation , xbox one, temp humidity switch and a rf hub. I used Sonoff switches as all of them including the Eachen switches worked off the same app as well as Google Home (a total of about 27 devices). I had bought the switches in ba
  11. Hi I would think the easiest way would be to see if you look in the ceiling how the lights are looped. I have had this problem. If you have identified the " faulty lights" It would be prudent to check the connections from the join on the first faulty light (live normally in the light switch and neutral normally at the light) or even the one before.
  12. Hi CoCoPops I am not a professional nor am I from Natal so I am unable to help with that advice. I will not only give you bad news. I will advise you first to find out if you are allowed to use a grid tied inverter before you invest in one you cannot fully utilise. Do not rule out a grid tie as it has other advantages of switching seamlessly between pv, battery and mains. I would then make a list of electrical devices and then list all those that might be on at the same time. You might as a suggestion split the high power devices from the essentials . This will drop the pow
  13. Hi CoCoPops After reading your post I can see you are very new to solar. First of all your request is unusual as you list all your power devices to be used. Usually most people using solar with inverters will try to avoid all high power items. Let me start off by saying you will need to do a lot more homework before deciding what you are going to do. I would suggest a professional guy to nnalise your needs and usage. A solar system does not solely depend on daily use but more on power use at any one given time. If you want to use the items you have listed I am afraid
  14. Hi Cal I understand where you are coming from. I have a wife that knows nothing about electrical systems and wants everything essential to work during load shedding. For the things to work as you have mentioned unfortunately there is no simple quick fix. I will only suggest the route to take as you have no knowledge on the systems. 1. Make a list of all the essentials needed during load shedding or power outage. As stated in earlier post your gate motor, alarm, and garage door open should have battery backup which should be sufficient. 2. That does not leave you with a whol
  15. Hi If I am correct you have 2 strings in parallel of 3 pv panels in series. Each string is just over 9amps which gives you the 20amps in total. It is unlikely that the 30amp fuse will blow due to overcurrent. To my knowledge and experience with fuses the most likely cause would be the following. A fuse when it blows from overcurrent will usually fuse in the middle of the fuse wire. this can only be seen if the fuse wire can be seen eg. glass fuses. I am sure the fuse wire cannot be seen because it is a ceramic fuse. The fuse can also blow or fuse, in this c
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