Thunderdolt

The follow up:

Is this the correct url? https://powerforum-store.co.za/collections/inverters/products/solis-s6-16kw-single-phase-low-voltage-hybrid-inverter-s6-eh1p16k03-nv-yd-l-10-year-warranty-with-display
Your link has something funny gives a 404 error, link appears to have "This" on the end???

Hi I want add some more input to this topic.
I recently found a question in my mailbox from a member with the same problem, and would like to sort it out. The generator link does not work when it is tied to the inverter.
This was my reply.
Hi xxxxxxx
I see your problem.
The biggest problem with a small generator is this.
Firstly, the generator needs to be adjusted to just under 50Hz under load. The biggest problem is that when the load changes, the frequency also changes. This effect stops the generator connection and is not ideal. The problem is also that you will charge the batteries and run the house.
My best suggestion is that you have a changeover switch that runs the house only from the generator and allows the batteries to charge for the PV panels at the same time. The way to stop the problem is to put the changeover switch in series with the output of inverter. Now you can switch the changeover to either run the house from the generator or inverter while still charging the batteries from the PV panels. This configuration does not have a frequency issue with the inverter.
It is difficult if not impossible to set a small generator to have the correct frequency under different loads.
I have both generator connections and only use the changeover that directly powers the house, as I suggested.
I am most sure most installers do not understand this problem, or they would have tested the configuration or warned you.
Lastly, any installer or electrician can do my suggested installation of the changeover switch.
Just make sure the earth is connected correctly for the suggested configuration so that your earth leakage works.
I hope this will help you overcome the problem.
I did this modification for a family member with a small coffee shop with the same problem, and now they are happy.
I am not an electrician or installer, just retired with 45 years of electronics, instrumentation experience.

Check your earth loop resistance from actual earth and the 4x2 box you are using as an earth.
Alternatively measure from the switch points to a know good earth like in the DB

Add about 1/2 teaspoon of Sea Salt or Himalayan or Rock salt per Litre, adjust to your taste buds (i.m.o. it improves the taste and feel) and you will have more minerals than tap water.
Also you can get RO systems which include mineralization cartridges and even stand alone ' mineralization filters' .

Dismantle the box with the plugs on it on your generator.
Run a 4mm cable to the breaker switch in the box and run that cable to the inverter.
A 4mm cable should handle up to 32A @ 230V = 7360W
6mm cable will handle up to 50A

Google Maps street view show that address as Bearing business!
Street View · Google Maps
Street View · Google Maps
Explore a place in a more immersive way in Google Maps.

I am using the Axpert type inverters without a BMS port and make use of the USE - user defined battery setting on the axperts, with lithium cv / fv / max charge etc settings appropriate for the 12 x Pylontech UP5000 batteries, as per pylontech :)

When I used lead acid, about 4 years ago (Trojan TE35's x 8 (6v) also about 230ah), I used 25mm2 squared cable from the inverters to the battery bank and between the batteries, connected to positive on the first battery and then the negative on the last battery. I kept the cables to the each inverter the same thickness 25mm2 but connected all the inverters to bus bars, and then connected the up5000's in pairs of 3 to the same busbars, each pair of 3 up5000's with a suitably fused connection max160amp, although 3 x up5000's could give recommended max 50amps x 3 continuously, or 80amp x 3 for a few seconds.

To monitor the axperts and Lithium batteries I use a free software called multisib, ( http://www.multisibcontrol.net )which can read the pylontech BMS and the info from the inverters. As the Axpert battery info is totally incorrect regardless of what battery type you use, as it does not make use of a shunt to accurately measure the power used, but rather it uses the voltage it detects as a representation of charge level, and when one puts on a big load, especially with lead acid, the voltage can drop suddenly, then the inverter thinks the batteries are fully discharged and it can drop the load. Which is why as they aged I had to adjust my maximum load at night during load shedding. However during the day while the solar was pumping it was not really a problem.
So currently my axperts flash a 04 code when they think the lithium batteries are low, however with the reporting on the Multisib software from pylontech BMS info, one can see SOC and SOH etc which is operating normally, so I totally disregard the axperts battery reporting as it is incorrect, however the axperts still flash 04 - battery low on the display :)
Other suggestions, one could check your batteries for hot spots? touch them on the sides, they maybe cooler than your hand but not warm, when charging, if they seem a bit warmer this maybe normal but may also suggest overcharging, equalizing too often? should only be done occasionally, maybe at most once a month (lead acid) or every 6-8 weeks etc. not daily. Equalisation does not always apply to lithium banks? And It seems one would keep it off, unless specified by the lithium to turn to it on?
Have you done voltage measurements of the bank when its charging? and/ or, once it appears full? Again the Spec sheets for the battery make/model will include C-rates in other words the expected run time at a certain amp loading for the model of battery? The lower the load the longer the run time, and its not a straight line discharge rate ( Peukerts Law - for lead acid).

Last thought is that Mixing old and new lead acid batteries does not work, at all. A bit like having a one flat battery and one good battery in a TV remote? :) and it will likely to damage the new batteries as they will dicharge continuously trying to balance or charge the other 2 seemingly ok batteries.

I trust you replaced a 4 batteries at the same time did not use any of them with the 2 older seemingly ok batteries?
I think if one did this and left them for 12 or 24 hours there's a good chance of damaging the 2 new ones?

Running out of ideas :0

Final thoughts, if the inverter(s) are supplying a charge, but the bank is not holding the charge, it typically points to bad batteries or higher loads than the bank can not support?
For lead acid, folks used to use the Victron BMV700 / BMV702 / BMV712 battery monitor which used a shunt and could accurately measure lead acid, agm, sla or lithium, and you can calibrate them as well. See the link below they have some videos as well for more info on how they work, how to connect etc. very good products.

https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors

The media always gets technical most stuff ....FIFY

In other words: Interconnected grids amplify both the advantages and vulnerabilities of any national energy mix. When countries are tightly linked, as in much of Europe, a sudden disturbance in one (like Spain's solar collapse) can ripple outward, destabilizing neighboring systems.
Traditional power plants provide rotational inertia, which stabilizes frequency. High-penetration renewables need grid-forming inverters or synthetic inertia to compensate.
Furthermore overreliance on a single energy source (e.g., solar during midday) makes the grid fragile. A broader mix including wind, hydro, nuclear, and storage improves resilience.
I hope Eskom is attending class.

Go to Google maps, type in 26 Tsenin Road, click on the picture.
They are obviously cheap because of low overheads, literally and figuratively. /S
Delivery is probably by express taxi.
Sorry, I couldn't resist.

You mean this at the top right? Only saw it now when you mentioned there is a link at the bottom and saw it had the same icon 😅

Insert existing attachment We can't both win! 😆

Address is a serviced office... no telephone number???
If prices are too good to be true then maybe they are.

Address is a serviced office... no telephone number???
If prices are too good to be true then maybe they are.

It housed an 8Kw Sunsynk and 12.5Kw Felicity Battery for 2 years. Recently moved house and took solar with me.

Put in a wireless switch with the correct amperage on the line to the pump and give everyone access via their smartphone.
Qwikswitch.co.za have a good solution re wifi switches and wifi extenders and remote bridges.
 

I would disconnect your outlet pipe and see how it runs with the 20/25mm diameter outlet un-restricted. If the flow is still very weak then disconnect the inlet and see if the flow from the jojo is what you expect. If all appears normal then your controller is the likely culprit, you can replace the internal pcb for about R250 if you have trouble with the supplier re warranty.
FYI : The controller detects pressure drop to turn on pump. Once pressure restores to pumps spec. i.e. 4bar, the pumps internal switch will turn it off.

From : https://www.felicitysolarsa.co.za/battery-communicate-with-inverters#dm Voltronic/Kodak/RTC Inverter
1. Prepare a communication cable: you can make it yourself, the pin out of the cable is 5,6(Battery)→3,5(Inverter) 2. Plug one side(pin 1,2) of the communication cable on BMS port on these brand inverter, plug the other side of the communication cable(namely pin 5,6) on any communication port on Felicitysolar battery. 3. Setting steps on inverter: Setting→14→PYL. 4. Sign of successful communication: Can check the battery SOC on inverter   If your cable is correct maybe support at the above link can help.

They are not cheap but I have used these products, saves chasing walls etc.:
https://www.qwikswitch.co.za/
Can use a remote and or wall switch to have one switch/remote for multiple lights/devices or multiple switches/remotes for one light/device.
 

Question time:
Is your EL between your inverter and the load? It must be after your inverter, it is not there to protect your inverter.
What type of EL do you use and how old is it? I found a CBi type B  EL/RCD gives zero nuisance trips, they are expensive but worth it. 
You say the EL keeps on tripping even with all the breakers are tripped? Then the fault carries through on the neutral circuit.
Do you have access to a meggar? 
Are there any elec motors on the circuit? Motors and old fluorecent ballasts have a tendancy to can become a bit of a problem.
Faultfinding: If the EL is currently tripping:
REMOVE /UNPLUG all the plugs and try to switch on. Still tripping:
Switch off the main supply and all the breakers, disconnect all the black wires on the neutral bar, switch power back on, don't switch on the individual breakers, reset EL, now push the black wires one by one against the neutral bar.
If the EL trip you have found the possible culprit circuit then you have to see what is all on that circuit.
If the EL still doesn't trip you might have a couple of small earth leakings which all then ads up to become more than the allowded total trip rating of 30mA.
NB the power is on in the db as you are pushing the black wires against the bar, do not electrocute yourself. 
If you don't feel up to it,  please get outside professional help. It is a pain in the ..... to find a dissappearing earth fault.
Happy hunting.