Jaco De Jongh

😀 I am showing you the error in what you said about the MPPT, I am not saying anything about any Hybrids, but to be honest, I did not expect you to understand.

That is not the way Victron operates. I will PM you the details of someone you can contact at Victron, He will sort you out. Victron themselves will not tolerate something like this.

You can of coarse connect it to the output of a 3kva Victron with batteries. The PV inverter wll then take the place of the MPPT in the system , that should be the most effective way of doing it.. Doing it that way, you will even harvest the sun while the grid is off. If the unit is too old, and without Sunspeck, you would need a Carlo to tell the ESS what the PV inverter is generating. (it is needed for control)

That is correct.. although i have seen 10mm used on a 60amp breaker over very short distances. I still prefer the 16mm...

Because this is a monitoring device and not a load, I use a 2.5mm neutral wire from the load side of the main breaker/Neutral bar (Before the inverter) to one of the 2 poles. No fuse needed as non of the other neutral wires in your board are fused. It literary only gives a return path for the current that is drawn by the electronic circuits, and even in the highly unlikely, very slim, 1 in a million change that a dead short might occur within this device.. the electronic circuit should fry long before it reaches the 25Amp rating of a 2.5mm wire.. This is just my 2 cents worth...

When you are on municipal supply, do you use the borehole for something else? And can you share how you do the changeover, do you physically need to connect/disconnect something..

Hi Beat these figures are not correct at all, please refer to the SANS regulation for correct figures.

2620476.vff Just remember you will loose the Config file when you update, so please back it up before you flash the firmware.

Yes you can, pm me your details.

Only in some homes, I a lot of cases, there is loads like lights, stove and geyser not connected after the earth leakage, in that case you would need to use the Main Switch / Isolator to kill the power. It is done in a three phase installation with only a three phase breaker. I personally would prefer a 4 pole breaker and breaking the neutral as well, but its only a personal choice. As long as the Neutral is bonded to earth at the transformer/mini-sub it will be safe. There will be no potential difference between live and neutral and you would not be able to get shocked by touching the neutral. Edit: Unless you disconnect a neutral from the neutral bar, and then hold that neutral wire in one hand and the neutral bar with the other while the load is switched on..

The inverter size. Your inverter is a 3kva/2400watt. In this case your load seems to be a resistive load, so the 3000va will apply. It will take from the panels what it can and add from the batteries to make up the 3000va (Rating of inverter) - losses. The balance then has to come from the grid. 3289 (Load) -2267 (PV Production) -445 (Battery) -837 (Grid) = -260Watt (conversion losses). If you had a 5kva unit, everything in this case would have come from panels and battery, nothing from the grid..

Looks great, but, what does the "now" mean. Will it ever be sold in the future? It would be great to use free software, but what a shock if it stops working after 6 months and "now" you have to pay...

Sorry, but why would you install it like that, inverters should be installed properly. To answer your question, the breaker will not protect your inverter. The inverter electronics should pop long before the breaker trips. Please do not consider exicuting your origenal plan.

Hi Jaco, Thanks for the reply. This morning it was around 10. The load was around 2kw and the PV was around 1,2kw. I did not check the battery voltage when it happened Please give attention to the PV voltage at that moment. With all your panels I would expect a lot more than 1.2kw at 10 (depending on where you stay} Are you sure all the strings are contributing to the production. You can test 1 by one by pulling all fuses and closing I string at a time. Where did you combine yours trings, and what is the thickness of the wire running from you point of combining to the Inverter?

At what time during the day does this happen, and what is the load when this happens.. The PV will typically only disconnect when it goes below the low voltage mark, or when the load exceeds the actual PV production. I would expect to see that behaviour early morning or late afternoon.

I can move those 4 batteries from JHB to CPT for about R500, I guess East london to CPT should be close to that.

Actually no one has the feature to feed back when the grid is unavailable. It needs the grid to connect/sync to, to be able to feed back. there is a very small chance that multiple inverters that was feeding back at the time of the failure might keep each other alive (Creating an Island), but those chances are extremely slim. The better/approved inverters has a way of trying to push the grid sinewave out of phase every few seconds, so in the case of a failure it will be able to push the sinewave out of " Shape", sense it and switch off. If the Sunsynk is on the list of approved inverters, then it will have the same method of detection a grid failure and in that case it would be save to use.

Great, let them have a look.

Pump should be taking water from the bottom of the geyser and pump it to the tube manifold. The return should go to the top of the geyser.

I have installed 15 tube collectors a few weeks back in Bloem when it was freezing cold. The first two days the element wasn't even connected and we reached 70degC in the geyser before 14H00 every day. So I think yours are under performing.

Might be your circulation pump or something simple like that.

If you mean, can you parallel them, the answer is no. Paralleled units must be identical in model and size..

Not yet, let me have a look.