isetech Posted February 13, 2021 Posted February 13, 2021 There is a US3000B and a US3000C battery I am trying to figue out differnce ... other than the price and DOD (B - R 18490.00 ... 80 % DOD ... and the C - R 18450.00 ... 95% DOD) and why the C which has a better DOD is R40 cheaper? Quote
Achmat Posted February 13, 2021 Posted February 13, 2021 7 minutes ago, isetech said: There is a US3000B and a US3000C battery I am trying to figue out differnce ... other than the price and DOD (B - R 18490.00 ... 80 % DOD ... and the C - R 18450.00 ... 95% DOD) and why the C which has a better DOD is R40 cheaper? C is the newest version that came out a few months ago. Price difference is negligible. B version is older stock and most places I've looked at is out of stock of the B version and will also not be getting any stock as its discontinued. isetech and wolfandy 1 1 Quote
isetech Posted February 18, 2021 Author Posted February 18, 2021 Application : 5 KVA RCT inverter RCT : 5KVA Voltage : 48 VDC Rated : 98 amps DC @ 4000 watts current required from the battery = 98 amps DC ( 200 amp hours recommended ... but assuming this is the recommendation for a lead acid battery or other batteires like the pylontech with a C 0.5 rating) @ 5000 watts on the output = 5000 / 230 = 21.74 amps (AC side) If you have a 3500 wh (72 amp/hr capacity) battery which can only sustain a max value of 1800 wh (37 amp/hr) If the battery could produce 3500 wh / 48 VDC = 72.92 amps. If the battery can only produce 1800 wh / 48 VDC = 37.5 amps Considering installing a 3,5 kwh pylontech which is within the budget however reading through the spec sheet ... I came across this note ... I have read on this forum about pylontech being rated at 0.5 ... but still trying understand the logic. Deliver up to 3.5kW* with single module (3.5kWh) - * please note this value is inverter/charger dependent, typically the maximum sustained value is 1.8kW per battery As I attempt to make sense of it all ... it just doesnt make sense to use a 3.5 kwh pylontech battery with a 5 kva unit ... if you look at the inverter spec ... you would require at least 2 in parallel and to be within the recommended spec ... 3 would be more suitable ... looking at the price comparison to C1 rated batteries. If doing a price comparison a 3.5 kwh ... you would need to compare a pylontech to a 1.8 kwh C1 rated battery. Disclaimer ... Still wandering through the maize with that blank look ... its still gonna take a while to understand the whole big picture. Quote
starmage Posted February 18, 2021 Posted February 18, 2021 Also if you already have the B and get a new C, the cable that connects the BMS to the inverter (in the case of Victron specifically) has also changed - the CAN-bus port seems to have a slightly different pin-out between the B and C models. Quote
isetech Posted February 18, 2021 Author Posted February 18, 2021 I was gonna go with a US2000C for the Temp. 1 inverter stand alone system until the 3 in parallel are ready to connect ... however as I learn more about batteries (what happened to the old days of just buying a 105 amp/hr Deltec deep cycle battery and be done) I realised it wasnt an option for a 5 KVA unit not even just for a few small essential loads ... I was ready to order the US3000C this morning to use the temp. and then buy an addtional battery and use it for another site ... which I might still do ... however after reading the spec sheet I decided to do a little more research ... create an XL spreadsheet and do a comparison of useable KWH (C rating) to rand value ... rather than just looking looking at price. I need to make sure the battery capacity is enough to run the full load of 3 x 5 KVA units ... 66 amps .... 230 VAC ... which will require at least 280 amps. This is something I need to do more research on ... Its one thing using a lithium battery if you have more than enough capacity ... 280 amp/hr (14kwh 4 x 3.5 kwh pylon batteries ... even then they only have 50 % of the capacity ) ... but lets say I install 2 x US3000C = 7 kwh .. .thats only 145 amp/hr ... then we back to trying to isolate appliances around the house to prevent overloading the batteires ... or seperating circuit and rerouting and rewiring ... cost to do all that ... it might be cheaper just to pay a little extra and get a C1 rated battery. Quote
Lee1 Posted February 5, 2022 Posted February 5, 2022 If I have a 48/5000/70 multiplus 2 victron inverter , what would be the ideal battery size to use .I currently have one 3.5 kva battery(pylotech)and find the system switching off every 20 mins.Would it mean I require more batteries . thanks Quote
Triggerxi77 Posted July 24, 2022 Posted July 24, 2022 It may be a bit late, but I've been struggling with this too. GIven the amount of loadshedding we've had and it being winter (cloudy in Cape Town). I've had my solar for 2 years and had no real issues. It is a 4.6kw Goodwe hybrid inverter and 2 x pylontech US3000 batteries (does not say B or C but I think it's Bs). On the spec sheet in the booklet that comes with the batteries it says the recommended discharge current is 37A, Max 74A and peak 100A@15seconds. It does not state any time against the 74A, but after some web searching that seems to be for 5min only. All of this is at a around 50V If I do the math it should be able to continuously give 37*50=1850watt per battery. My batteries are in parallel so it should be able to deliver double that i.e. 3700watt. With the loadshedding and no sun the MBS seems to shut down at around 2700... Which is a pain. I was expecting to get at least 3500 and up to the 4600 (inverter max) for the 5min when you want to boil the kettle during loadshedding. Toanswer your question: 1 battery will not do the trick. I'd love to hear from anyone else that has a similar setup and feedback on how the system behaves when only on battery. Quote
Gerrie Posted July 25, 2022 Posted July 25, 2022 On 2022/07/24 at 3:58 PM, Triggerxi77 said: I'd love to hear from anyone else that has a similar setup and feedback on how the system behaves when only on battery. I have the older B type Pylontech US3000 on a 5KW Sunsynk inverter. The nice thing is you can set the Sunsynk to only draw 1850W maximum from the battery until such time when you upgrade with another Pylontech. Currently it serves my needs as I have moved my kettle and toaster plug to non-essentials. The 1 x Pylontech can handle the kettle but I did not like the Amperage of about 49A and I wanted to stay within the 37A recommended range. At the time I done my research I settled with Pylontech brand because of the positive reviews and I was afraid of more school fees after the gel batteries. My plan was to upgrade at a later stage with another Pylontech but these days only the C type is available. I believe the C and B can be mixed but the B will need a software update. My conclusion is if quality is a big factor when buying lithium batteries then Pylontech should be on top of the list even though its rated 0.5C. If you plan on building your system in phases over time then Pylons and Sunsynk are a excellent match. I did however settle for a bigger BSL 6.4 KWH battery, which is a 1C but it was more on the spur of the moment decision as I got it at a very good price before the prices went crazy, it’s still lying in the box and I’m in no rush installing it as the Pylontech gets me through load-shedding quite comfortably. My 2C’nts. Quote
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