Achmat

Dip switches are all down in the same position for all batteries. 
Your batteries should be balanced before connecting them to the inverter. 
I did it slightly different. 
Step 1 charge existing battery bank to 100% SOC. 
Step 2 disconnect existing battery bank from inverter. 
Step 3 connect new single US3000C battery to inverter and charge it to 100% SOC. It comes shipped at 50% SOC. 
Step 4 disconnect new battery from inverter after 100% SOC is reached. 
Step 5 connect new battery to existimg battery bank and wait for them to balance each other. All led lights should go off and battery should go into standby when this is achieved. Mine took less than 20 minutes as they all were at 100% SOC. 
Step 6 connect the full battery bank to the inverter making sure that that the new battery is the master.

Don't have a clamp meter but my electricity meter is the spinning disk meter. I have seen that the disk actually does not move and it does not use anything from the grid if the zero export is set to zero. 
Clamp meters can also be faulty. Is your municipal meter actually ticking over. Assuming you have all loads on the inverter. 

Can't comment on the growatt inverters but I'm sure if you check posters here who installed them, most of them would opt for the sunsynk over the growatt inverter. 
I would also go with the sunsynk over the Deye as the user interface on the sunsynk is much more modern and intuitive. 
8 months of running the sunsynk and it just works. 

You can set the aux to only run when batteries are above a certain SOC if the grid is down. 
If the grid is available it will use from the grid first before doing into batteries. 
 
Grid down scenario 
Daytime pv goes to load, aux and batteries 
Nighttime batteries powers load then optionally can send power to aux. Its batteries drop below a certain thrusting then only loads will get power. 
 
Grid available 
Daytime pv goes to loads, aux and batteries. If allowed, excess can feed back to the grid side. Overcast will be the same as nighttime below. 
Nighttime batteries powers loads then aux until set SOC is reached. This can be 100% then batteries will never be used for aux loads. Aux loads will then get power from the grid. 

Incorrect 
Pass through is on the essential side. 
If the grid or another ac source is available then you can pull up to 35A on the 5kw and 90A on 8kw essential side. 

Your solar system would be of a capital nature so the terminology for individuals work be different. 
Best I can think of right now is to determine the fair wear and tear value and use this as the deduction. 
Example. If your system cost R100k and expected useful life is 10 years,the wear and tear value of R10k per year could be used. Prorated to the square metres of you home office. 
The same can be applied if you had to make any capital investments like renovating to have a home office. 
 
Another option is to look at your total PV production and use the rates charged by municipality for electricity and pro rate for your home office. So if you produced 5MWh for the tax year and 10% is for your home office, then 500kWh*average municipal tariff for your area = tax deductible amount. 

You can set the aux to only run when batteries are above a certain SOC if the grid is down. 
If the grid is available it will use from the grid first before doing into batteries. 
 
Grid down scenario 
Daytime pv goes to load, aux and batteries 
Nighttime batteries powers load then optionally can send power to aux. Its batteries drop below a certain thrusting then only loads will get power. 
 
Grid available 
Daytime pv goes to loads, aux and batteries. If allowed, excess can feed back to the grid side. Overcast will be the same as nighttime below. 
Nighttime batteries powers loads then aux until set SOC is reached. This can be 100% then batteries will never be used for aux loads. Aux loads will then get power from the grid. 

I installed mine on top of my 4 car carport with about only 5°. I'm only using half the space and just decided it was easier to get more panels that try to mount them at the best angle on the flat carport. 
I will suffer in winter though but will be adding more panels to make up for this. Currently getting 60kwh per day in summer from 8.54kw of solar panels which is more than enough for my summer usage. 

Lol at his reply. The CT is just a sensor measuring the current flow at a certain location and all your voltages on every wire is 220v. 
If you want the inverter to send any power back to loads before the inverter, the CT must be placed before these loads and not between them and the inverter. Basically if a non essential load is switched on, current will flow from the grid to supply the load. The CT will then detect this and tell the inverter. Depending on your settings, the inverter will then send power back through the grid connection until the CT measures zero current flow from the grid. 
It really is that simple. Maybe he just doesn't know that the inverter can send power back only as far as the CT coil. 

So if you have it ticked then the aux will send power to loads on the aux output if the grid is available. The geyser obviously has its own element that will switch on and off as required. 
This power it sends to the aux would come from available solar first during the day and from the grid at night. 
On bad solar days it will then rely on the grid to power the aux loads. 
 

Yes you can.
First option is that it will allow the aux to be permanently on if the grid is available.
If the first setting is deacativated then it will rely on the following two setting.
PV power. You can specify at pv power point you want the aux to switch on. you can set this as high or low as you need. if your base load is only 1.5kW then you could set it to turn on the when pv generation reaches 1 500W. It will switch off as the sun sets and pv production goes under this value.
Aux off battery would be the minimum SOC the battery reaches before the aux is switched off. This to avoid using all your battery for the geyser. You could set this to something like 85%.
Aux on battery would be the point that it will switch the aux. This could be at 100% or any other amount higher than Aux off amount.
It wouldn't be switching on and off every hour. It would basically switch on in the morning as pv production increases and then off again late afternoon. Only on eratic pv days due to clods you could have a few starts and stops but the battery should then decide to switch on and off. If you have a bad solar day and batteries are below 85% based on the example above, it will not switch on and off and only switch on when batteries are 100% and pv is more than 1 500W.

Noticing more if these posts and users not aware of balancing the batteries first. 
Maybe this can be pinned somewhere. 
This is what I did when adding a new US3000C battery to my existing US3000B battery bank. 
Pylontech should include this in their manual. 
Step 1 charge existing battery bank to 100% SOC. 
Step 2 disconnect existing battery bank from inverter. 
Step 3 connect new single US3000C battery to inverter and charge it to 100% SOC. It comes shipped at 50% SOC. If more than one new battery is added, first balance these together and then connect it to inverter and charge it to 100% SOC. 
Step 4 disconnect new battery from inverter after 100% SOC is reached. 
Step 5 connect new battery to existimg battery bank and wait for them to balance each other. Not connected to the inverter yet. All led lights should go off and battery should go into standby when this is achieved. Mine took less than 20 minutes as they all were at 100% SOC. 
Step 6 connect the full battery bank to the inverter making sure that that the new battery is the master.
 

You could have then just gone with an off grid inverter instead of a full hybrid if you are not going to fully utilise the inverter. 
As an example, say your ups loads are 3kw, batteries are full and solar is pushing at 6kw, the inverter will simply derate your solar to only produce 3kw for the ups loads and effectively waste the other 3kw. Meanwhile you switch on the kettle or geyser and there is another 3kw on the non ups side before the inverter. With the CT coil installed the inverter will send the surplus pv to the grid side so you don't need to use from Eskom or the municipality. It's one of the main features of a full hybrid inverter. 

You can set the aux to only run when batteries are above a certain SOC if the grid is down. 
If the grid is available it will use from the grid first before doing into batteries. 
 
Grid down scenario 
Daytime pv goes to load, aux and batteries 
Nighttime batteries powers load then optionally can send power to aux. Its batteries drop below a certain thrusting then only loads will get power. 
 
Grid available 
Daytime pv goes to loads, aux and batteries. If allowed, excess can feed back to the grid side. Overcast will be the same as nighttime below. 
Nighttime batteries powers loads then aux until set SOC is reached. This can be 100% then batteries will never be used for aux loads. Aux loads will then get power from the grid. 

Like I said, C rating for bigger battery banks becomes irrelevant. 
There's no way my 8kw inverter will discharge a bank of 21kwh lithium batteries at even 0.5C, whether it's a Hubble or pylontech battery bank. 

For me the C rating only becomes an issue with smaller pylontech battery banks of 1 to 3 batteries. 
I have 3 pylontechs so it can become an issue when i need to use more than 111A from the batteries. This has only occurred once in the 6 months my system had been running during a load shedding slot very early in the morning and when my Geyserwise activated the 4kw geyser element and my bedroom 12000btu aircon was running. 
When the grid is available or there's sufficient solar, this has not been a problem. Three pylontechs is not enough to see me through 24 hours and my plan has always been to have 6 pylontechs in my battery bank so the 0.5C rating really becomes a non issue. Planning on adding 3 more this month still. 
Constantly discharging at higher C rates also reduces the number of cycles that you can get out of any battery and ideally i would want my batteries to discharge on average at 0.25C and peaking at 0.5C. This will also help with not allowing the batteries to heat up which is also good for battery life. 

I have the same inverter and 4 pylontech us3000 batteries. 
My screens below. 
Did you balance the batteries for connecting them to the inverter? 

Correct on using the aux load for a generator or wind turbine. You lose the smart load function. You can however have non essentials before the inverter and then with the CT sensor, you can then send power to these loads from both pv or battery. The grid connection is both an input and an output. 
If you run the sunsynk without batteries it becomes a normal grid tied inverter so if the grid goes down the inverter also shuts down. 

Mine is working fine but I'm not in a prepaid meter so my meter will not trip or use units. 
The problem with limited to home is that when big loads switch off that are connected before the inverter, it takes a few seconds for the inverter to pick this up and some electricity might flow back through the meter. 
You will need to increase the electricity draw in settings. I think the default is 40w.
Try increasing this to 100w or 200w. It will then only zero the meter to +100w/200w.
 

1. You need to insert dummy lines as you can't delete or have blank lines.
2. It's the SOC at which point it will stop using batteries. The timer has 2 functions. It's the SOC at which point the batteries will stop being used so if its set to 80%, batteries will only be used during that time until the SOC is reached. If grid charge or gen charge is ticked, it becomes the target point for grid or gen charge to stop if you have it ticked and set at 100% it will start charging from grid at that time and stop at the set SOC. 

Is it a sunsynk technician or your installer? 
There are a number of posts on this forum where installers have no idea how to correctly install the sunsynk and especially where to place the CT coil. 
The CT coil need to be installed immediately after the prepaid meter on the live wire. If its on the live wire before the inverter then it's only picking up the loads on the inverter. 
It's a simple fix and I would do this before going through the process of installing a bidirectional meter. Depending on where the prepaid meter is and where the CT is currently installed, it should take less than 5 minutes. 

You could have then just gone with an off grid inverter instead of a full hybrid if you are not going to fully utilise the inverter. 
As an example, say your ups loads are 3kw, batteries are full and solar is pushing at 6kw, the inverter will simply derate your solar to only produce 3kw for the ups loads and effectively waste the other 3kw. Meanwhile you switch on the kettle or geyser and there is another 3kw on the non ups side before the inverter. With the CT coil installed the inverter will send the surplus pv to the grid side so you don't need to use from Eskom or the municipality. It's one of the main features of a full hybrid inverter. 

Correct. But I would just leave everything at 40% and prioritise load. Basically if your loads are 2kw and pv is producing 3kw, with your settings, it will send all the pv of 3kw to the batteries and pull 2kw from the grid for the loads. 
When you prioritise load it takes 2kw from the pv to supply the loads and sends the excess to the battery thus not taking anything from Eskom. 
BTW that is old software. The system mode on the new software is split over two screens and with start and end times. 

From my understand the Voc is a hard limit. The CEO has started in one of his videos that it can actually go to 550v but they spec it to 500v. The inverter also cannot clip the Voc and potentially could burn out if you exceed this limit. 
Clipping 1A to 2A should also not be to much of a waste on a 10 x 540w string. My panels are rated 9.28 and only every saw this in ideal conditions in the middle of the day in summer. 
Amps increase with solar irradiation so it starts off low as the sun rises and peaks at midday and then decreases as the sun sets so the clipping would potentially only last for an hour in the middle of the day in summer. Winter having higher rated amps is better. 
This is my one string with 9.28 rated panels only getting as high as 5.3A on a clear day in Cape Town. Voltage however does not have the same curve as amps. If I had 13A panels instead, I would have only gotten about 8A out of them so I could get more out of higher amp panels in winter and lost a bit in summer, which is actually better as I do not get enough pv generation in winter. 

You need to remove the tick for time sync on the inverter and then make sure your timezone is configured correctly in the Solarman app under plant settings.