GTP

On a vaguely related note.. do CoT PV owners have to register their systems? I have seen some draft regulations from 2017, but I am not clear if it is in play at the moment.

My 5.4kw ITS currently runs for about 45 mins at 12h30 afternoon to heat to the set temp of 57. In the evening it runs a further 2 cycles. One at 30 mins, the other at 40 mins. In summer.. for all 3 runs.. it runs at a max of 1h30 odd mins. Mine runs in a timer. Basically between 12h30 and 20h30. And it does those 3 cycles. The 2 evening cycles is the family bath or shower routines. A note on switching off at the db. My installer said that the machines are quite reliable and hardy.. but they dislike 2 things (based on the warranty repairs he has seen). First is kn and off switching.. like loadshedding and db switching. It messes with the computer. Second is water outages. The pump apparently does not like that. So i guess i would be hesitant to just switch it off at the db. Mine is on essential loads.. but i find the timer options quite flexible. So you could program a few timer slots and let it do its thing

That doesnt sound like correct performance to me. My shoto runs from 70% SOC at midnight to around 35% SOC at 7pm. Pretty much in line with the consumption during the night. Mine is also hooked up to a deye. Are you using the CAN cable or voltages as a comms with the inverter?

I just got my ITS 5.4 moved onto essential load as well. It ran for 15 odd minutes and I can confirm it ran between 1.8 and 2kw Edit. Ok. I have now seen the heat pump run in all its iterations now that I can visualise consumption on the inverter. So for the startup and initial cycle, the unit fires up and runs at aroun 1450w, slowly creeping up to around 1800w. This is over the course of some 40mins. The evening cycles when my family does their bath routine, the unit runs at 1700w and creeps up to around 2000w.. In all, it runs just under 2 hours a day in this weather. I remember in March it ran for around 90mins. I did bump up the temperature by 3 degC as the Mrs was not happy. In summer I will drop it by 5 degC. So in summary. I guess the really big savings will be seen in the warmer months when the COP is greater. In winter, i am still seeing a 60% odd reduction, and I put it down to running at almost half the power, and for such a short period of time. I do think the specification jargon is on the misleading side.. i acknowledge that the label says max power is 2000w.. i didnt expect that most of the power is in the upper range though.

I was looking at my panels a few days ago and could see a thick layer of dust. As it happened.. we had decent rain last night and this morning the oanels looked a lot cleaner. Difference on my PV is about 150w better today at peak vs a few days ago..

Mystery solved in my case. My installer confirmed the ct was setup on the essential loads only. Not sure why.. but anyways, they will be coming out to correct it. Thanks for the discussion everyone, i would not have had this sorted if it werent for this thread

Issue on mine is the installation is about 20m away from the DB. So in the trunking I can see the CT around 1 of 2 load wires. There are 3 with the one being isolated as the PV load. The other 2 load wires come from the DB. I guess one is essential load and the other is grid. Dropped my installer a message to ask about this. Question (and apologies for hijacking the thread).. Assuming the CT is correct.. if the total load on the house icon was 500w.. and i entered the Grid page, is it normal to see the CT value showing a positive number and the LD value showing a negative value? Example. CT 300w and LD -200w?

I remember when my system was installed, the guys said thay exdess power from PV could also power non essential. I always wondered how it does this if the inverter isnt seeing the total load. I wonder if my CT clamp isnt in the wrong place. I definitely dont see geyser or stove loads on my inverter so the CT must be on the essential loads cable and not total grid. I see there are two load cables running into the breaker box. Maybe the other cable is the grid.

You could get an idea by checking your daily useage per your utility bill, and subtracting your essential loads value to get a feel for what your non essential load is. There are also fancy meters you can install. I dont have an opinion on these. Never used them. In my household, my 150l geyser with 3kw element was contributing about 7units a day to my bill. Stove and oven would be the balance.

No. I dont see non essential loads on my inverter. Only essential loads. Example, if the geyser runs on its element, i do not see its draw on the inverter infographics

Hi there. Based on my Deye use, 1.1 essential load only 1.2 the battery will provide power until the percentage typed in for that time frame. If the load exceeds the battery capacity, it will supplement with grid power. Ticking the box means grid will be used to charge the battery if it is below the percentage indicated. 1.3 not sure. I understand it as simply using the settings as the preferred operation mode. If eskkm drops, solar does its thing. In the absence of the sun, battery kicks in 2. Yes. I understand it like that as well

Your system is showing pretty much the same performance as mine is currently. And mine is down because of winter. I have 6x 455w panels and am peaking at 1900w. In March i was still easuly hitting 2400w at peak. Only difference in my case is the season. So looks ok to me

June bill just arrived. I noticed the heatpump runs for around 2h15 a day now with our useage. When it was installed in March it ran about 1h30. I put this down to the ambient temperature drop which has been significant this month. The extra run time has added 0.8units per day over this last billing cycle. Within expectation, and 62% less power than June 2021.

Yes it can

Ah.. could well be. I have never seen the insides.. and even if I had, I wouldnt know if components were quality or not. Good to know really. I am happy I made the call to switch when I did.

As someone who changed from Growatt to Deye, my reason for the change, off grid inverter vs. Hybrid. My battery did not communicate properly with the growatt, and the bms froze all settings. Battery works well with the Deye and settings are fully customisable. I also find better flexibility on the Deye for the day to operation as pertains to grid vs battery vs PV power. I find it better for my needs than the SUB and SBU settings. I wouldnt say the Deye is superior. Its different, and better suited for what I needed.

That does seem a touch low. My system currently has 6x455w. In Feb and march i was gettimg up to 2300w on really clear days. It has been reducing bit by bit as we get into winter. I currently get around 1900w at peak Not understanding the amperage and voltage numbers. Again, on my system, my imverter is clipping the max amperage at 9.9. I have seen threads that with a firmware update, it will hit the 11a which is the spec. My voltage at max is between 250 and 280v.

I anticipate them still catching late afternoon sun. In winter, they will be getting afternoon sun head on from 4pm till just after 5. In summer the angle changes a bit.. so I guess similar timewise. But my PV is a lot more efficient anyways. Higher PV output and for longer. In winter i currently lose output from around 14h30 because of the angle. Will only really know next summer though 😄

In my opinion, yes you could. I am currently speaking with my installer to do exactly the same. Just debating whether I go with 8 total or 9 total. My 6 panels currently face NE and i also lose out from around 3pm.. my additional panels are going.on the NW facing slope and in principle should catch late afternoon sun directly.. well. In winter anyways..

Hi there. Right off the bat, i doubt you will ever see the 100% efficiency from the panels to get you close to the 2400 odd watts. I was told to expect between 80 and 85 percent on my system. Bear in mind.. i have full sun on mine.. and that is still a 15 to 20% efficiency loss. So with 20% efficiency loss, yours would be around the 1900w mark give or take. My system loses a further 15% in winter with the change in angle from the sun, and different trajectory. So.. if your system is partially shaded, and without further info about the setup, it does not seem (from the numbers you mentioned) that it is under performing. Sounds about right for time of year. Have you experienced the same in summer?

Mine too. I lose about 20% power in winter. In summer the system performs to spec. The chamge in angle of the sun makes a big difference for sure. No idea what my tilt is. I guess its around 20deg.

And now Ford too https://www.news24.com/fin24/companies/how-fords-electric-bakkie-can-power-your-house-for-10-days-20220531 131kwh battery.. wow

I am not sure. I mentioned it because I experienced an issue where my charging curves became erratic. Mainly the charging was being throttled. I also noticed that the battery would not discharge to the SOC that was configured. The bms showed no problem and SOH of 100. My installer together with his supplier then determined it was a rogue cell that was charging faster than the others and would cause the throttling when this cell apprpached full charge, whilst the other cells tried to catch up leaving a battery that took longer to charge. I wouldnt know how to check this though. Apologies. I simply reported the symptoms to the guys in the know

Could it be gammy cells in one of your batteries throttling charge power?

Maybe try give them a call. I see a number listed on their facebook page https://m.facebook.com/FireflyHeatpumps/