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Arandoza

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Everything posted by Arandoza

  1. Another option is to use one of these DC to DC backup UPS units, they work very well just plug into a wall outlet and set the output voltage on 5v for the dc connector and then connect to the RPI 3 / 4 via DC Jack https://www.makro.co.za/electronics-computers/wifi-networking/routers-modems/routers/gizzu-mini-8800mah-dual-voltage-dc-ups-/p/000000000000436836_EA?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-P-rBhBEEiwAQEXhH6SuCLvaySsES8UThwhcPFae_l2yHvZ8hHD1SEop76n5jZxHTXelGhoCeQYQAvD_BwE
  2. Remember to check what the safe Charge and Discharge Limits are for your battery, and be sure to set the charge limit correctly. As mentioned one does not want to damage the battery or cause a fire, so too high a discharge / charge rate will do that to a battery, usualy with lead acid batteries a safe number to use is around 10-15% of the batteries Amp Hour capacity, if not sure, rather err on the side of caution and go a bit lower. So in your case your lithium battery is 100ah rating so 10 amps charge rate would be safe, and probably your inverters next size up in terms of charge rate would be 20amps, unless you can get definate max charge rate, and even then I would keep the charging amps a bit lower than what the manufacturer suggests for safely and longevity of the battery.
  3. It looks like your solar charger requires a Minimum of 90VDC before it will see the panels. (operating range 90v-430v) Never exceed the Inverter VOC of 450VDC (Add the VOC of the Panels together to get the Total VOC of all the panels in series which should be lower - to allow for voltage increasing when temperatures drop - panels will produce higher voltages, so try not to exceed 420v as a rough guide), in the MPPT Voltaage range) So it looks like you will need at least 3 of the current 360w panels in series to get to around 129vdc, then it shoudl start working, and you can probably add a maximum of 6 or 7 of the same panels in series to get you up to or just a bit over the 2000watt rating on the mppt. Just be very carefull when working with the panels as the high DC voltages can kill instantly, and be sure to have a PV panel disconnect that disconnects both + and - of the PV before entering the inverter, So one can safely turn off the PV before connecting or working on the panels.
  4. Is your current supply single or three phase? What amp rating ? what is your current peak load etc. Have you done an energy audit on the house and cottage to see what loads they use? or do you have a very good idea of what loads they use? If you want to maximise your solar usage and reduce your electricity bill put as everything or as much as possible on solar, excluding maybe the ovens? this way you will maximise the solar usage. And reduce your eskom bill the most. And get the best return on investment. Ideally if you can control your load thru Sonoff devices or timers then one can determine when things will run like the pool pump (500 - 1000w?), geysers (convert to 2kw elements), aircons (12000btu typically uses 1200-1400watts), Dishwashers (150-2200 watts when heating water) and front loader washing machines (200-600Watts excluding water heating) typically have a low load, except when heating water, for the washing machines one can typically set them to cold wash. However, your proposed 8kw unit may not be big enough for this, you may consider going 12kw? if available? or two 8kw units in parallel. During the day with good sun, you would be able to save using little or no eskom. However at night or when clouds pass overhead and shade the panels, the 2 batteries may not be able to carry a high load, due Max Discharge Rate, adding more batteries will increase the max discharge rate. And at night during load shedding you would need to educate all residents to not turn on Aircons, Dishwashers, pool pumps etc. to keep your load low, to get reasonable load shedding / cable theft coverage? You will probably find that after installing you will want to add more battery capacity, and more panels, for longer run times at night, and to cover the 55kw used as well as to recharge the batteries. So try to plan for this by choosing installation space that will facilitate extra batteries and hopefully your have enough roof / carport space for additional panels. Other options maybe to have a second solar install for the cottage? rather than 2 x 8kw or one 12kw inverter? To split the second DB at the cottage, into essential / non essential loads, one will most likely have to run a new supply cable and put in a second db to be able split the loads at the cottage, or maybe wifi controlled switches in the cottage db which disable circuits that are non essential? During load shedding or cable theft? Chat to your potential installer and see what they would recommend as well? There are many things to consider.
  5. Probably best to take it up wih your local ward councilor? Single phase or Three Phase? Did you have a positive unit balance on the meter(s)? roughly how any units? and when did you last load units? Just Curious? What happens if you are away for 3 months and you preload enough units for the period ? will they also just decide to disconenct you? It also sounds suspect. Also what happens to the credit on the meter? it cant just be stolen? Only if your rates, taxes, water and or refuse are in arrears can they diconnect your electricity and then charge a fees usually around the notice / disconnection and reconnection? typically.
  6. Once you install solar and see the cost savings,you will probably want to grow the system You will probably also start shifting your loads to daytime to save even more So I tend to agree with @Greenfields go bigger if you can, start with the panels and batteries that you need for night time use, and when its cloudy. When cloudy the batteries need to be able to carry the loads, as the clouds pass by, especially if you are running higher daytime loads, and load shifting. But consider planning for adding additional panels and batteries and maybe a second parallel inverter. Many people install a system and then see the huge reduction and then want to upgrade or add to the system but are limited by their initial choices. Also keep eskom on prepaid, its good backup, and add the generator as a final backup. Also have a bypass inverter switch(s) installed, in case the inverters require repairs or maintenance, so one can simply work around them, if ever needed. Load shedding is not the only problem we sit with, cable theft, failing infrastructure, pylons having their metal stolen, etc. and you may find you want enough battery capacity to carry you thru the night with ease
  7. I use a older version of the ICC software bought probably about 4 years ago, and I am not sure the "Export" number is correctly calculated? I also took it that it was to indicate how much power is exported to the grid, but It makes no sense? as we use RCT axpert inverters which cannot export? The generation number is more aligned with what the ICC software reports. For example the icc emoncms dash is currently showing 59.1 kwh pv generation for today, pvoutput is showing 59.360kwh ? Not sure where the extra 260 watts is coming from? Another issue we see with icc - pvoutput, is that even though icc posts every 5 minutes or so, that there are breaks in the daily data, almost like the posts are being rejected by pvoutput. Its not a connectivity/bandwidth issue, but rather something with the icc software and pvoutput side. However the daily totals on pvoutput are close to icc daily totals, maybe due to rounding or averaging? Typically we see this happening from around 9am till late in the day, but there is no consistant pattern to the breaks in the data.
  8. We migrated to Pylontech UP5000's from a TE35 x 8, 245 ah battery bank that had come to near end of life, and was only used for backup / load shedding at night, for about 1-3 hours. Pylontechs added in sets of 3 x UP5000's at a time to keep the ah load per battery low (still tried to keep to max 10% of ah rating for charging / discahrging) even though Lifepo4 manufacturer specs say they can take the punch, and I am also now seeing folks saying that many of the Lifepo4 specs are being "inflated" by manufacturers a bit so they can seem more competitive and better value for money. Most folks seem to suggest that if you have a light load on the lifepo4's you will get a good lifespan, and I subscribe to that thinking at this point. It also translates to lower cycles. I was so impressed with the pylontech performance added a total of 12 units, 9 last year, and then 3 more Jan23. Since then the inverters now run at full PV load to recharging the batteries each day, so we get more production from PV. Previously we did load shifting and tried to use as much pv power during the day as possible, but still could not use everything the system could make, since adding the pylontechs our PV generation is running all day, and we dont switch back to eskom at night, but keep the loads low, and still do load shifting to dayime hours. So we have basically gone off grid, but still with prepaid, which we still buy and accumulate, for the odd bad weather day, and for winter where the days are shorter. Always good to have a backup Depending on usage, during the winter months this year, I am expecting we may need to occassionally switch to eskom, during non peak times to carry the load, and allow the pv to be dedicated to recharing the batteries, its cheaper this way due to the up to 20% more power needed to recharge the batteries due to system losses, so rather charge via pv and the losses dont cost anything. Also with the bigger than needed pylontech bank, we find on cloudy days production is better, and also the battery cycle count is currently about +/- 140 cycles, considering we have almost been using the pylontechs around 12 months now, its not 365 cycles and the max charge and or discharge amps per battery does not seem to exceed much over 10-15 amps, so very happy with the system Other things that also influenced production previous years was bad weather months and rainy months, check Oct 2022 vs Nov22 which had about 3 weeks of dark cloud and rain in Nov22. Also Jan 23 vs Feb23 which had cloud and rain we lost about 1/4 production in Feb23. March 23 has been much better but my prediction due to recent cloudy days is that it will be 1950 Kw/h for march?? Will see soon if we are about right? I also see a notable drop off in production from april onwards, with June and July being the worst months typically about 50kw/h per day being generated on these months, and an average monthly generation of around 1500 kw/h per month, due to shorter days, less irridiance, dust / dirt buildup on the panels etc. but still typically only a 1/4 month production drop all things considered, and winter also tends to have no really cloudy/rainy days, otherwise this may drop further. I see a lot of folks asking whcih battery banks are the best and lots of complaints about lead acid, agm, gel, and would simply not even consider going there again, after using lifepo4 its the only way to go. However I do see a lot of folks complaining agout C rating 0.5c vs 1c, again I subscribe to the thinking the harder you work the battery the shorter the lifespan. Install 1 or 2 lifepo4's, enough to carry your night time load, without causing them to alarm, and buy something that you can get support and spares on (BMS failures can happen, even out of the box, cells can become dodgy etc) and then condsider adding and growing your bank so it doesnt work too hard and hopefully it will endure.
  9. I also understand there to be a regulation to install in a garage or outbuilding, for fire safety reasons. We installed in a Garage for space ad safety reasons. many years ago, with lead acid batteries that give off Hydrogen and other toxic gases which need to vent. Since this we moved to lifepo4 batteries, added mover inverters, and so on. So the Garage was a good choice as it gave us space to grow the system, kept the noise of the inverters fans out of the house, and they sound like a swarm of bees when producing from the solar or if you charge the batteries from eskom, and the fans run all the time, noisier when charging / producing more PV / and or have a higher load. In retrospect what I would have prefered would be a nice out door cabinet, climate controlled that could house the inverters and batteries bank, and that had a connector for eskom in, and supply out, which you could connect direct between your outdoor breaker and DB board, with a bypass changeover switch to bypass the pv, during times of maintenance and or failure of the pv. Ideally this out door cabinet could jusut stand next to your house 1m-2m and if it caught fire limits the risk to life. All Batteries are typically a hazardous item, and you would not want to try and run past these when or if they catch fire in your house, many DB's seem to be in the passage (Middle of the house), even if they dont catch fire and only generate toxic gases due to a cell failure, you would much rather have this happen far away from where you are sleeping. So you dont suffocate and die. Even if you do choose to install near the DB you will find that you end up moving the install to an outbuilding or garage as you grow the system. Good Luck
  10. Checkers has an inexpensive metal kettle for about R200.00 that works on both gas or induction, alternatively consider a normal electric kettle as well as the metal one for the gas stove, this way you have both options, electric when theres lots of pv / good weather / daytime, and gas for night time / early mornings / bad weather days etc. https://www.checkers.co.za/All-Departments/Household/Appliances/Kitchen-Appliances/Kettles/Blue-Stainless-Steel-Whistling-Kettle-2-5L/p/10770432EA I found the Cheapie to be the best as over time, the colour discolours or burns, especially when used on Gas and its put on the large burner, not so much on induction. Also when used on gas, the handle gets a lot hotter, whereas when used on induction its cool to the touch, The efficiency of gas vs induction.
  11. One can also add a single plate induction stove, to use during the day. Saves gas and increases solar usage like the one below. https://www.mhcworld.co.za/products/defy-2100w-single-induction-hob-ihb2160b?variant=39572294402137 Usually we use ours on the 500w/800w/1000w/1200watt settings which is plenty to cook with or boil the kettle works like a charm and extends time beyween between gas refills for the gas stove.
  12. Have a look at the PylotechUS5000 manual page 18 onwards, none of the battery diagrams are wired like the proposed 2 by 4. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwip_MyNlNf9AhVOY8AKHaI1A6AQFnoECAsQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.teci.co.za%2Fwp%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2021%2F02%2FUP5000-V1.0-Product-Manual.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3jG5P_j-9SjJZRRyrnIREo in terms of the power cables. It's always + or - on the first battery to the Busbar, and also one + or - from the last battery to the busbar. So drawing power across the packs + on first pack to - on last battery. And the BMS worries about the Balancing of the packs, and the cells within each pack. Your diagram for the 2 by 4, shows both positive and negative on the first and last packs being connected. Also the 2 x + and 2 x - terminals on each battery pack have a common busbar which they are connected to behind the faceplate on the battery. In the diagram for the 2 by 4, it would appear one is pushing and or pulling power from both ends of the combined pack? makes no sense? I cant see a benefit, two positive cables on the first battery and two negative cables on the last battery will have double the current capacity? 200 amps? However the interconnecting cables, (4 and 10) between the packs, can still only carry 100amp, so why? It just makes no sense? Check with your pylontech dealer what their reasoning is?? Also bear in mind all batteries data cables would be interconected so they can be monitored and would be aware of each other. So the 2 x 4 packs or 4 x 2 packs is not really relevant, the only thing that the BMS cannot communicate is how the batteries power cables are physically connected to the inverter and or busbar, so it cannot protect overload conditions on the power cables. How one connects the Power cables is really about max load carrying capacity, and protecting your power cables from Heat (increases resistance in cables) , and overloading. Ensure all packs have the same length cable connecting them to the busbar, and try to keep only as long as needed, increased length means increased resistance, and can create voltage drop if long enough. Ideally you could use one set of cables from each battery pack, back to the busbar, thus ensuring the cables 100amp limit connot be overloaded, one can then safely use all available 8 x 100 amps (38.4 KW charge / discharge : 48v x 800amp ) all the batterys would still be connected via the data cables from 1 to 8 and would communicate as normal. And your serial/console or CAN / RS485 cable back to inverter for reporting from the batterys to the inverter of the SOC / Charge / discharge rate / and any other parameters it may supply. Going back to the recommeded details from the manual : Recommend Charge/Discharge Current (A) 50 - Two packs interconnected and then back to busbar (should not not exceed to 100amp continous limit) Max. Charge/Discharge Current (A) 74~89@60sec - Two packs interconnected and then back to busbar (would exceed the 100amp cable rating, by 78amps after 60 seconds the BMS should shutdown the pack(s) / drop the load? or other protection (fuse) before / after the bus bar, what happens if dead short? ) Peak Charge/Discharge Current (A) 90~200A@15sec - Two packs interconnected and then back to busbar (would exceed the cable rating, by 80 to 300amps after 15 seconds the BMS should shutdown the pack(s) / drop the load? or other protection (fuse) before / after the bus bar, what happens if dead short? ) You would have to look at your inverters max charging capabilites to consider if you would be able to exceed the max Charge conditions, which I think in many cases is not so likely? However the discharge scenario is more likely, if there are any dead shorts and there is no protection to cut out supply from the batterys one could potentially, reach the max discharge rates, melt cables etc? One last thought is that if you ever want to add more battery units, the newest battery unit should be the master, as it's BMS should be backward compatiable with all existing batteries, so consider building your rack from the ground up, so there is space to add at the top of the rack later, without having to repack the rack Also something I have noticed is that the packs closest to the floor run cooler, especially in summer. All The best
  13. Check the US5000 manual Recommended Charge/Discharge Current (A) 80* Max. continuous Charge/Discharge Current (A) 100* Peak Charge/Discharge Current (A) 101-120@15min 121~200@15sec 2) For External cable kits: NOTE: Power and communication cables connect to inverter belongs to an External Cable Kit, NOT include in battery carton box . They are in another extra small cable box. If there is anything missed, please contact dealer. - 2 * 2000mm power cables (4 AWG, peak current capacity 120A, constant 100A) and communication cable for each energy storage system The 2 banks of 4 wiring digram you have is incorrect. on the 1st of 4 batteries positive connected to Busbar and on 4th battery negative to Busbar, not both positive and negative to busbars on battery 1 and 4. However besides for the connections being incorrect 4 x batteries at 100amp each 400amps per set of 4 or Peak 15s 800amp discharge will melt your cables instantly :0 Also the US5000 Max continuous charge is 100amp per battery, the Cables from the battery to the busbar are "rated" as per the manual at 100amp continous or 120amp peak. So stricktly speaking you should have set of cables per battery. When pairing the batteries in sets of 2 and using one set of cables you are potentially sitting with a Cable rating of 100amps continous and the batteries (2 of) being able to supply 200amps continous. Its a good recipe for a potential fire Also seen comments that even thought the pylontech cable sets are rated at 100amps folks have noted from 60 amps upwards they start getting warm, and people seemed to have concerns that the 100amp continous rating is a bit optimistic?? AFAIK regarding balancing of LifePO4, this happens automatically, the BMS on each unit will control this. So its not like LEAD ACID / AGM ETC. Cable lengths and resistance will still apply in terms of voltage readings etc. However with the BMS connected to your inverter, this will be reported by the BMS to the inverter so not really applicable? Also all your + and - cables from the batteries to the Busbars from each pack will be 2000mm? (Ext Cab Kit) so this should not be an issue?
  14. The US2000C is a 48volt pack, and the UP2500 is the 24Volt pack
  15. The canbus comms is always a question? You would probably need to check with your supplier? https://lalelaretail.co.za/lithium-batteries/ disappointingly only have a 2000 cycle life? and no comms. You should be able to at least be able to set the inverter to battery type USER defined and set the values even without comms. According to the manual, it also has a comms interface but it fails to advise what the interface is compatiable with, only that it is RS485 or canbus if i recall correctly. https://thepowerstore.co.za/products/pylon-up2500-2-55kwh-li-ion-battery-24v-backup-storage?variant=31875084648510&currency=ZAR&utm_campaign=gs-2018-09-19&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8ZnLvLzE_QIVy-3tCh2JOADjEAAYAiAAEgIzMPD_BwE#description Pylontech also offer a 24v lithium battery with a much higher cycle count of 6000? Have you considered maybe moving to a 48V inverter and Lifepo4? The reason i am asking is that the 48v pylontechs up5000 are about a third more expensive and give you about double the capacity? And 48v is more home friendly as you want to grow the system, and get more benefit, and has lower losses, due to higher voltages etc., where as 24v is more for campers and caravans and usually not so friendly to upgrading /parallelling inverters? https://www.solarwaysuppliers.co.za/product/pylontech-up5000-4-8kwh-li-ion-battery-48v/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Kq5n8DE_QIVtGDmCh0imwkOEAQYBCABEgIOjfD_BwE Hoepfully someone on the forum can offer further info on the comms compatiability and lalela ?
  16. Normally, you should not get shocked even if the panels are not earthed. I think you have a different problem? Maybe related to E/N bonding and a relay when on solar, but will depend on how your inverter works, it may have it built in or in may need to be done externaly? Earthing the panels will only assist in directing induced (By lightning) / Leakage (From faulty panels or Faulty/Damaged cabling to the MPPT) or a lightning strike away from the inverter and into the ground. This should be for when there is a problem, and normally there shold be no leakage?? It would probably be best to get your installer to come out and investigate what the cause is ASAP. If your panels are connected in a string with VOC voltages of 450 volts, you could be dead before you know you had been shocked? Please get an electrician to investigate.
  17. If the pressure pump from the jojo to the building is continously running, it could also be the pressure switch that has failed? one can try the restart button, to try reset? once at pressure it should turn off provided no pressure being lost. It could also be leaking tap(s), or slightly overflowing toilet cistern etc . Have also had a ooster pump pressure switch failure, and found it was more cost effective to replace the pump and switch as they came as a combo, 0.37kw pump. If the tank runs dry it could be an air lock in the booster pump and this can also cause it to run continously. Is the borehole pump also running all the time? Any idea how its controlled to turn off /on? maybe a float switch in the Jojo?
  18. Am not familiar with the Luxpower units. From what I can see on the display it looks like you are running from the grid b 0v? and your battery is fully charged? If you have another grid input it could be that the grid is running the house, the batteries are full so no solar needed? I would check the Working mode, and set it to run from solar & battery then utility. It looks like it maybe in Utility, then Solar and Battery mode? Also is this a second string that the inverter can take? was it recently added? if so it maybe that the 120v is not high enough for it to produce power, although i see the spec says 100-385 vdc is the operating range? so it should work. is the polarity of the string correct? positive and negative from array connected to pos - neg on inverter? I expect one would damage the inverter if incorrectly conencted, but maybe worth checking? Hopefully some other luxpower users will see your question, and give better suggestions?
  19. The best option is to go for a 5kw or even a 8kw unit with lithium batteries that can be paralleled. Feedback to the grid is not so critical. Remote monitoring of the system is something that sunsync seems to do well at. There is ICC software and one or two others for the voltronic types as well. Also make sure the lithium battery communications is compatible with the choice of inverter. The problem with solar is it’s a bit like buying a car, which is expensive. However if you are only going to use the car 3 times a month it’s very expensive. It’s better to use it everyday while the sun shines and get a great return on investment. Free power. Use prepaid at night and have the system for backup at night, with a lite load when on battery. Soon you will probably want to add more panels and batteries as you see how well solar works and how much it saves you. also until Eskom adds more capacity to the grid load shedding is here to stay and get worse. Also with all the cable theft and vandalism often power fails to restore after load shedding due to cable theft or infrastructure failing when being powered up, as it is old, and not well maintained. Make sure to get a Good installer to show you installations they have done and chat to their installed customers, what they like about the systems, problems they had etc.. Be sure to get a COC as well. Withhold payment in full until this is received. Have fun with the research
  20. Check your inverters MPPT max VOC and Panel configuration VOC ratings, check if you are not exceeding them? It maybe that you have exceeded them and the MPPT is clipping the panel output? Maybe add your panel and inverter specs to the post, it will probably be helpfull to others in giving suggestions?
  21. It could be a few things? 1.) Check settings on the inverter? related to depth of discharge before returning to grid? 2.) Depending on the battery technology it could be a battery failed or BMS or BMS Failed or BMS Battery too Low issue. 3.) It could be the incoming grid voltage is too high +240v, usually UPS's have a tolerance issue like this, and so the inverter won't switch back to grid? Probably a good idea to check wha the incoming voltage is? Could also be frequency related? In the early hours of the morning the grid has a low load and so the grid voltages tend to climb? 4.) Once the battery is depleted to 0%, it may need slow charging to get the battery back online, and once the sun comes up it starts charging slowly? from solar, whereas if you turn it all off and power back on it maybe tries to charge from grid, and doesnt like the state of the battery and so shutsdown again? or the BMS turns off the battery due to it being depleted? and too high a charge rate, when in low battery state. From what i have read, LIfePO4 batterys need to be trickle charged once they get down below 10 or 5% depending on the make, specs etc. to revive them. What make and model inverter and battery banks, and if you have the settings maybe add them to your post. Maybe it will inspire some other suggestions.
  22. WOW? Am Surprised. Make sure your warranty is submitted ? I am not sure i would be confident in a battery that's making noises? It could still be something to do with the BMS, thats making the noise? If there are other suppliers maybe give them a call and get a second opinion? if this appears to be normal for the make and model? Do you have one or more batteries? is it only the one unit that makes the noise? or do they all do it? Do they have active cooling? like fans? etc? Am running 9 pylontech UP5000's and not a sound. Only possibly the pylontech alarm beeper that may beep if there is a problem? and this can beep on on or all of the batteries, depending which one is giving an error, But not under normal operation. And so far have never seen it happen.
  23. Not normal. There should be no sounds. You could have a failing BMS or even worse a battery that has a problem and is building up pressure??? Check with your installer for advice or to be safe shutdown and remove from battery configuration and have it checked out by your installer or supplier. It could also be things like, check your charging parameters etc. on the inverter, they maybe wrong and damaging the battery(s) or....
  24. Consider after sales support, as the BMS can go faulty, there are out of the box failures etc and buy a reputable brand and from a company that can support you. Battery sizing will be based on what your load is? and also if you are running purely from battery or Battery and solar. What your peak output would be? considering startup loads, like when you turn on a aircon or a motor it draws up to 3 or more times its rated power for a second or so. Also depends on what type and size of Aircon? non inverter or Inverter type aircon? If running purely from battery only one would assume you would want to keep the load as low as possible to get the maximum run time, and lowest depth of discharge, and amps required, so keeping your battery life good for longer. If while on Solar and battery, provided there is enough solar, that can be supplied, a higher load can be run. on Cloudy days reduce the demand, or increase the number of batteries. Two quick ways to kill a battery is to run it at it's maximum, both on load and or it's depth of discharge. The Up5000 specs from the web below : Basic Parameters UP5000 Nominal Voltage (V) 48 Nominal Capacity (Wh) 4800 ****Usable Capacity (Wh) 4560 Dimension (mm) 442*420*165 Weight (Kg) 40 Discharge Voltage (V) 44.5 ~ 53.5 Charge Voltage (V) 52.5 ~ 53.5 ****Recommend Charge/Discharge Current (A) 50 ****Max. Charge/Discharge Current (A) 74~89@60sec ****Peak Charge/Discharge Current (A) 90~200A@15sec Communication RS485, CAN Depth of discharge (%) 95 Configuration (max. in 1 battery group) 16pcs Working Temperature 0°C~50°C Charge -10°C~50°C Discharge Shelf Temperature -20°C~60°C Short current/duration time <4000A/2ms Cooling type Natural Protective class I IP rating of enclosure IP20 Humidity 5% ~ 95%(RH) No Condensation Altitude(m) <4000 Certification TÜV / CE / UN38.3 Design life 10+ Years (25°C/77°F) Cycle Life >4,500 25°C Reference to standards IEC62619, IEC63056, IEC61000- 6-2, IEC61000-6-3, UN38.3 In the above specs one needs to consider the **** items, Usable capacity (Maximum) If you push to the maximum it will shorten the lifespan, Recommended Charge/Discharge rate, 50a x48v = 2400w continous and the max and the peak rates, ideally you never or seldom want to hit these values, per battery, as I expect you will shortehn the lifespan. if you do run the battery at 2400w, after an hour you would be at +/-50% and if you go lower than 40-30% you shorten its life and if you take it 10% you may have issues getting it to charge again. Personally I would try to keep the max discharge at 60-70% at an absolute maximum, on the rare occasion only when absolutely needed. Battery cables. Two power cables (4 AWG, peak current capacity 120A, constant 100A) the above are the cables the UP5000 come with to connect them to the inverter, the 100A max x 48v rating for continous use rating. One can add multiple batterys together (DC Output) for example into two or three batteries interconnected, but your cables can only handle 100amps. alternatively one can connect the DC output of each battery to a common busbar and then onto the inverter. In short, 1 x up5000 will be ok for light loads and will probably give reasonable run times, however ideally you would want 2 or 3 UP5000 batteries. Also bear in mind if you use 80% of the capacity - 11520 watts from 3 x batteries, you will need to be able to generate the same amount plus more from your panels to recharge, or recharge rom the grid. Also remeber your inverter also has self consumption, typically for axpert type inverters consume around 150watts.
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