Warlok

Thank you for the feedback. Do I go with the left or right, which values go where? On the left top picture. Boost charge=Battery absortion, so 54,v? Float charge=battery float charge, 52,5 (seems obvious because the wording do match) Equalization= 52,5? or 54v? On the right top picture. Minimum- 53,2 Typical- 56,4 Maximum- 57,5. Got this on AI overview. The maximum voltage for a Shoto SDA10-48100L5 (15S LiFePO4) battery is 56.4V. This equates to a maximum cell voltage of approximately 3.76V per cell. The recommended bulk/boost charging voltage is generally 54.0V–54.5V. Key safety and performance details for the Shoto SDA10-48100L5: Battery Type: 15S LiFePO4 Operating Voltage Range: 40V–56.4V. Maximum Charge Voltage: 56.4V. Recommended Charge Voltage: 54.0V–54.5V. Maximum Charging Current: 100A. With all this info, can someone tell me exactly what values to input in the bottom 2 pictures to charge the battery correctly, balance the cells and to make it last as long as possible? I know to some members this will look obvious which values go where. I am being very careful because I lost a Pylontech battery (R25000.00) gone, and it was connected via BMS, but got swollen and lost all capacity.

Thank you. We did that and it's been working for a while now.

Good day to all, I have connected a SHOTO SDA10-48100L5 battery to my Sunsynk inverter. Initially it had an error, but eventually started up and is working now for the past week. There is no connection to the battery bms. I am using inverter values in Solar assistant. My power draw never exceeds 600w from the battery. Could anyone give me the correct values concerning battery charge and work mode settings. The battery is second hand and I do not have a manual. There is a lot of conflicting info on the internet. Any help will be greatly appreciated..

Good day. Hope every one is well today. I'm asking for a friend. About 2 weeks ago power went off due to vandalism. (from Witbank all along the old road to Middelburg) Power was off for about 2 days and it was very overcast. My friends battery switched off due to low voltage. (SHOTO SDA10-48100l5) On a Mecer 5kva inverter, 2x 600w bifacial panels in series. (Ground mount) When grid power was restored, The inverter was off and the bypass to grid was on. All appliances worked fine. The bypass was switched to inverter and the system was powered on. About 10 seconds after the inverter was started, it went BANG!!! and all was off. Before this the system was working fine for 2 years. It was disconnected from grid and the testing started. Panels was good, battery went into fault mode, inverter dead. The values tested on the grid is as follows; L+N=240v N+E=170v L+E=360v My friend bought a new inverter and battery. We tested it off-grid (NO ESKOM) and it is perfect. I tested the output on the inverter and it works fine. (connected a load to the output), but with NO ESKOM) A solar installer was called in and he told us that he would not connect the inverter to grid. He said there is something wrong on the transformer and eskom should come out. Something to do with the earth-neutral bond on the transformer. It's a farm house with it's own transformer. The solar installer told us we can connect the inverter without the earth and make sure the inverter, battery and panels are connected to an earth spike and not to the house wiring. The house is being rented from the owner of the farm. What to do next?

Thanks. But not to far in the future I'll be 100% off-grid. Even if I have to suffer a bit. Thank you for all the advice.

Thank you. Makes sense. Just feels like eskom is stealing more from me than they should.

Good day, A quick search on pylontech swollen batteries and only on facebook marketplace.

Good day, I have a conlog prepaid meter and have noticed that the meter does not display anything below 120w. So, if I have anything connected and its only drawing less than 120w, say 40w, it shows 120w. When I go above 120w, it shows correctly. Can these meters only register 120w w even if the load is less? After a few months this can add up and I am paying for it. When everything is off in my house, it shows 0w and when I plug in a laptop which draws 40w, the meter shows 120w Am I missing something? Please help. I do not want to give eskom anything more which I am bullied into giving them.

Good day, As I have mentioned before, my UP5000 battery is swollen as well. It works fine from 100% SOC to about 60%, and the drops off very fast. Drawing about 200-300 watts it drops from 60 to 30% in about 30 minutes. Battery is less than 3 years old with less than 900 cycles. I have never drawn more than 1.5kw out of the battery. The battery was connected to a Axpert inverter for 2 years and I had the voltage set to 52,5V, and never had any problems. (no swelling and good runtime) I "upgraded" to a Sunsynk 5kw inverter, connected a raspberry Pi with Solar assistant, got all the right cables for BMS monitoring and all worked like a charm. Obviously the BMS took over the charging of the battery, but I was not pleased with it going up to 53,5v. I tried setting it back to 52,5v as this was recommended by a few people on Powerforum. ( 52,5v x 15 cells =3.5v per cell). The Pylontech BMS took the cell voltage up to 3.9v, and I had no control over it. Now 3.9v x 16 = 58.5v. This in my opinion is way to high. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this is the reason for the battery failing. I've read about people saying that Pylontech do not honor the warranty if the batteries are swollen, because the user have "overcharged" the battery. But, how is this possible if the BMS takes over control?. I really can not afford to just go and buy a new battery, and I can not afford to remove the battery, as I'm living on a plot where Eskom power is VERY unreliable. I contacted the supplier which I bought the battery from, and they told me I MUST bring in the battery. What he needs to do is send it away and have it tested to see if I "overcharged" the battery. Now, obviously this is what they will say, as I think the battery is being overcharged, but due to the BMS. I can not afford to remove the battery as we get on average 10-15 power failures/dips a day. I know if the battery fails completely, it will most probably burn my house down. But then this will be a case between me, my insurer and Pylontech. (and an attorney). Does anybody have a solution to this, which does not involve me just running the inverter from solar without the battery? Maybe get the supplier to loan me a small battery just fro a "buffer" when the power goes out? I know this is asking much, but I really do not know what to do. Thank you to all who have helped me through the years on the Powerforum.

Thank you for all the replies. I have a better understanding now.

Got this explanation on the internet... SOH represents the overall condition and remaining useful life of a battery, reflecting factors like capacity fade and internal resistance. A 93% SOH means the battery has lost 7% of its original capacity. My take-away here is "capacity". So when it reaches 74% SOH, the battery will have the same capacity as a us3000 pylontech and the parameters should be changed accordingly. So, charging a battery (us3000) that charges/discharges (recommended 37a) max 74ah charging and telling the inverter its a 100ah battery could cause damage? My logic brings me to this conclusion, or am I looking at this the wrong way and will the BMS sort it out?

Good day to all, I have this stupid question........ Pylontech UP5000 SOH shows 93%. Is it wise to tell the Inverter (Sunsynk 5kw) that the capacity is 93ah or leave it at 100ah?

Good day. 5kw Sunsynk was between approx 55c and 65c before adding cooling DIY cooler approx 45c -55c. (R650.00 inc. 12v 3A power supply) Price does not include trunking. Used polystyrene to "seal" the sides Laptop cooler approx 35c - 45c. (R629.00 Used cellphone 5v 1A power supply) Sold the DIY cooler for R1000.00. (Had to include labor. 🤑) The laptop cooler has been running non stop since 7 Dec' 2024 (Silent) IMO it's better to blow air up from the bottom than sucking it up from the top. Garthox wants to run Home Assistant. That's a rabbit hole, but so satisfying......

Thank you. Scared of blowing things up, I ordered the RS232 to USB cable from the Solar-Assistant website. Plugged it in and works 99.9%. The other 0.1% is that it does not log inverter AC & DC temperature. Maybe someone has a fix?

I have noticed that the top plate of my up5000 battery is'nt as flat as always. Could this be an indication of a swolen battery pack? Can I open it? Dont want to void the warranty