MeepMoop

Thanks for posting your experiences! I too am an unfortunate user of 5100s batteries (the Raystech variant) and my saga with 40% to 0% soc drop is ongoing. Absolute run around from CFE support. They've got me debugging all sorts of stuff to "prove" that it is in fact the battery that is trash.

What battery is this and how is it communicating with the inverter? If the inverter uses the battery voltage to estimate SOC then those dips can be due to increased current draw in the house. It looks like the battery is run down to 60% at noon before being charged to 95%.

I have a 2kW element in my geyser, and a custom controller based on a Geyserwise thermostat (just the thermostat) and a Sonoff THR320. The geyser is wired to the AUX port, but the sunsynk settings basically have it on permanently. When the Sonoff turns the element on between 16:00 and 08:00, I have Home Assistant turn off the "Use Timer" setting in my Sunsynk 8kW inverter, as well as setting the "Battery charge current" value to 0A. This allows the geyser to heat from the grid during the night without depleting the battery, but stops the battery from charging (or discharging) at the same time. Home Assistant also turns off the geyser when there is no grid power available, so that it doesn't deplete the batteries either. When the geyser is up to temperature and turns off the element, I set the "Use timer" back on, and the charge rate back to 50A.
So far it seems to be working well.

My final review: The BMS sucks. I don't recommend these batteries. 

The outcome would be negative because you have good sun on the east in the morning. But the west is shaded. The panels will always behave like the shaded or weakest link in the series chain. That is why you parallel them to avoid this. 

Myne is sorted as well tech from Raystech came to my house did the upgrade and check the health and they are still 100%. Had them to 15% 2 times already.   

For Smart BESS . Install Smart BESS app onto smartphone and create user profile, register and then test login into the app and logout.
While connected to your home WiFi with a working Internet connection, do the following.
1. Have your home wifi password written and ready to readoff.
2.Open smart bess and login in to the app
3 . Press reset button on CFE battery for 7s to activate battery inbuilt WiFi signal . make sure its 7s otherwise it won't work.
4. On the Smart BESS interface on your phone press Config WiFi. 
5.Smart Bess will pickup the battery's inbuilt wifi (hifyling_softap) and you type in your home WiFi password in the empty row.
6.On your phone settings, go to wifi selection and chose the hiflying_softap as your wifi to use instead of your home WiFi.
7. Go back to Smart BESS and press the start button. 
8. Smart BESS will self configure a connection between your battery internal wifi and your home wifi and success is registered once you see a message on your phone screen with ID and a mac address.
9. On smart bess app press Add Battery follow prompts and voila . if battery data doesn't appear when you press "my battery" but you have added it correctly, wait a few hours or check the following day for cfe server to pickup your battery data. 
Note : Smart BESS just gives basic details about battery status eg voltage temperature,current and individual cell voltages and a SOC graph etc
...not much else to do there except probably to assist you with knowing fault code when there is a fault with battery.. and also probably just to wow a few of your friends with this "technological wizardry :)"

Ok, just an update. I reached out to Hubble and got a response within minutes, very impressive. But basically what they said is that it is normal behavior and nothing to worry about. Thanks for all the comments, at least now I know it's not going to detonate

@MeepMoop Yes it is just too consistent not to be some predefined behavior. I'll continue investigating to find if there is some inverter or battery setting that is causing it.

There you go.  The magic of wireless tech.

I am surprised at all the replies, suggesting/discussing rewiring.  Look, even a small geyser is a heavy consumer and plugs normally sit on a 20A circuit breaker.  So you don't have much spare to power some very hungry kitchen appliances.  Your current setup is not ideal and adding an extra pair of cables is the best solution.  Granted.

Now I don't like WiFi ONE BIT.  I keep mine OFF for 99% of the time, but I am a crazy old man.  Ordinary folks have no problem at all with it.  So why didn't anyone suggest an IOT Sonoff relay that is controlled wirelessly from a Rasberry PI or whatever other smart devices you guys play with.  All you want to do is make sure the geyser is off during L/S.  If you do it via the cloud, then at least Bill Gates can turn it off as well, if he feels that you have been a very naughty boy and used up all your carbon credits.

I am sure Klaus Schwab would approve noddingly as well.

Yes @MeepMoop they have gone down to 15 where I have an auto shutdown a few times now... rain and extra load shedding really not helping - but seems to be holding up. I also asked them to check each battery health and both were still 100% so happy about that too.

very interesting @MeepMoop although when mine dropped to 1% it then charged up normally so i don't think it was a synching issue. Have just had CFE work on the system they confirmed the state of health is 100% for both batteries and have updated the firmware to the latest stable version - also updated the inverter. I shall continue holding thumbs...

If anyone wanted to see an example of AC pass through as well as how the Sunsynk can power high loads above its rated value on the non essential side. 

May I suggest a simple test.  Try and place your hand on one of those 60W bulbs and see how long you can keep your hand on them.  Then repeat the test with your 3W LED.   Doesn't matter what you do, at the end of the day, just about all electric power is converter into heat.  Sound and light generation is a very tiny amount.  Even mechanical power from an electric motor ultimately is turned into heat, with the exception of adding kinetic or potential energy in applications such as water pumping and the like.

I think your assumption of a PF = 0.8  is way, way to high.

BTW, these cheap LEDs are all overdriven.  The manufacturers purposefully do so, so that these bulbs very seldom see more than 18 or 24 months of life.  Otherwise, who would buy LEDs in future?

Open the LEDs and modify them to run at half power and they will run for many years.  You can check out the youtube videos from Big Clive.  He has made a number of videos going into the details.  See my other posts about this matter.  You could also connect a 0.22 or 0.47uF high voltage cap in series, and that would also dim these lights and reduce the power further.

I connected my SA last night, money well spent, im chuffed......!!

@Scorp007 Those UPS systems tend to run very hot.  At my previous company we started cutting holes for cables and placing the battery next to the UPS on the outside, to increase the MTBF of the batteries.
SLA are not "sealed".  I have sometimes "repaired" SLA batteries by simply popping off the top plastic lid, removing the 6 rubber grommets and filling with distilled water.  Then replacing the grommets and giving them a good charge.  SLA's are not wet batteries but still hate heat and dry out.  I could use "repaired" batteries to operate gate motors without problems for many more months.

Heat and vibration are the two killers of lead acids.  Many BMWs and some other cars, had the battery in the trunk.  Less heat and less vibration.  They typically last 5+ years.  I think certain BMW 5s had the battery up front, and people where lucky if these survived 24 months - modern engines are covered in plastic covers and trap the heat.

@fuzex For any TV run from batteries, I would suggest the following:
1. Make sure it is a LED TV and not an old LCD - LEDs use about 1/3 of a LCD TV
2. Try to limit the screen size of the TV.  Large screens = lots of power drawn.

For R3000 you can buy a new 32" Samsung.  A bargain considering what batteries cost.   Your batteries will thank you.

For the small scale user only wanting a TV, WiFi & lights, if he is a bit DIY inclined, I would suggest getting a TV that runs from a 19VDC laptop-type power brick.  Many of the 32" Samsungs use this setup.  Then get a DC-DC boost converter for about R120 and run TV, lights and WiFi straight from 12V.  Advantages are: Safety (no high voltages that are unlikely to have earth leakage protection in these small systems), no noisy fans, no inverter expense (you still need a charger) and most important of all, no power losses due to the inverter.  These losses can be substantial.

I have a 24" Sinotec TV which I brought a few years ago specifically for load shedding.  It runs straight from 12V and consumes about 1Amp when set to a medium brightness. i.e. 12W.   A modern 32" LED TV should be about 20-24W.   An old 32" LCD will use over 70W by comparison.  Large screen LED TVs will likely also use 70W and more.

Similar logic can be applied to PC monitors.  Desktop PCs are not power optimised and are heavy on juice.  I personally have a dislike for laptops and prefer a desktop.  When replacing a desktop, consider one of these mini-PCs (the size of a paving brick, such as the Intel NUCs).  They run much more efficient and are available from a Celeron to i7.  So although small, they have a lot of CPU power.  And again, these are powered by external 19VDC laptop-like supplies.

Just loose, they weigh 35kg each. When they fully loaded they are not going to disappear anywhere. It's non invasive because the roof has a water proof rubber membrane that needs attention periodically so the blocks need to be able to be disassembled for future maintenance if needed.

This thread should be taken down

thanks @MeepMoop

If you have the cash..go with Victron. Alternatively look at the more cost effective units like Growatt or Luxpower. 

This is awesome, I’ve ordered. Thank you! Now the fun begins with the install! 

@PieterO, have you spoken to Leon? He can update the firmware over the air. 
 
I desperately want to say yes my system is sorted but i will know in a week or 2’s time. They replaced my batteries yesterday. 

Great, tried the restart but not the reboot. Working again.