Dylboy

I may be miss understanding but since you now have a Genny in a changeover system then the genny acts like the grid basically so if the geyser is on it will pull from the generator, most people have a switching protocol of switch off geysers and stove then do changeover and go start Genny. So the CBI will work when the genny is on as it is getting power as per normal and does not know that the generator is now running it and not the grid. Once again I may have misunderstood the original question but that's my 2c worth

Hello This may be long winded or not but I have been doing some AC work for a guy who does Victron and then yesterday I took the bottom bracket off the multiplus II 5KVA, 70A. And it said the below pic, but now I am a spark so I assume the impedance they mean is the External Earth Loop Impedance but that "+j0.18ohm " I do not understand, basically it's the letter j there ? I assume the 0.28ohm is external earth loop then the +j is the earth loop from inverter to the DB it is fed from... So then a total Zs of 0.46ohm. Am I correct in the above ? Then I had a call that the ELU (Earth Leakage Unit) on inverter output intermittently trips when Eskom comes back, there is the internal relay for N and E but the Earth Loop of the Main DB is 0.54ohm so is that why the ELU trips as the Earth loop is too high for it and greater than the combined 0.46ohm? I can hard wired a N and E but that can not be done past council but since the inverter is an appliance then it can be argued but for now just wanting clarity on the above impedance stuff. I can't add pic as too large and not sure how to reduce on phone but it states " special note regarding NRS097 (South Africa) the maximum allowed impedance of the network is 0.38ohm + j0.18ohm "

Ahhh interesting and good to know thank you. Is it 4ohm year round they want that value ? I.e wet and dry season ? How does one combat the change is season and ohm reading ?

to add, I spoke with DHEN at solar show and the smart guy their said 10ohms or less is desired but caviet I believe that is for lightning... Direct systems with down conductors etc... Not surge. I will try find some standards that give the ohm reading but 10ohm appears to be good. As that can counter for change in season too I imagine.

100% on setting the limit to CT or untick the limit to load if no CT. I may have the slightly wrong wording but the installer should know also the YouTube video above They prefer to do your method and not the genny port of the Deye as the genny port has small frequency range which may not accept your Genny. But on the grid side you can set the frequency limits quite a bit to cater for your Genny spikes and dips. plus side it frees up the Aux / Gen port

All in all I really enjoyed it. Once you cut the sales jargon and go for the technical stuff then you get results. Learnt a bunch and confirmed a bunch too. I was impressed and happy I went. That 50KW is massive piece of machinery hahaha. Very awesome I must say! enjoyed the Goodwe and Solis stands as well. My best was the long chats with DHEN. That is where I learnt the most and enjoyed it so so much. Asked the solar academy why people they train go and install solar when they are not registered electricians in particular wireman and not electrical contractors. there was some round about answers but in the end they don't vet the person, they offer a service. Sapvia have released a statement thing I will try find stating the errors.

Quick reminder that yes it is itemized weird they are also a company and a company does work for profit not for giggles.... That setup closer to the 200k Mayembe now 210k. We don't know the installers situation and if that's his price that is what it is, get 3 quotes. I do get a bit sad when people haggle and justify the quote. The price for me to be there and do the job will cost X. It may cost someone else Y. We can not tell someone what to charge. I can go to Toyota and say it's 4 wheels and an engine why is the bakkie nearly a million... You shop around, change brand or save.... We don't poo our pants when we order a R120 burger that we can make at home for 60 bucks. As this is text emotions can not be clear but I message all this is good intent and not anger

Hopefully heading there tomorrow to have a see. Hoping to chat to Sunsynk and Victron and then get a nice coffee too haha. Curious though to see how it is

Thought so, what gets me is how some have different ratings but I see now it may be due to temperatures:) Do you look in the Sans 10142-1 book for the amp rating for size cable ? For example 16mm panel flex ?

Very interesting topic ! I am going a different path on research and that is if the cable is rated at 600V or more but is marked as Welding or battery cable can we use it for A.C ? My thought process is that copper is copper and DC cable is robust and insulated well so should hold to A.C. This stems from retrofitting a DV and using very flexible DC cable with ferrules is a lot easier than wrangling with the equivalent 16mm GP wire I have gotten as far as panel flex or powerflex but still cannot get an accurate data sheet.

That is quite the find ! A quick one to touch on, do the essential and non essential circuits need to be split into different DB's ? I.e what is fed from the inverter need to be in a seperate DB ? Is there a reg number in SANS 10142-1 ?

Ah ok, then perhaps do a full restart then as well and see if that helps. Will try think of another solution but a restart may be in order.

That is interesting then. How long have you had the system ? i.e did it just start this now ?

I used the same but my run was only 12 meters, CAT6 I think would have worked as the VD is little but once more like you I was not sure and we'll it's what I have extra of Is 1.5 haha

Setting it to Zero Export to CT should solve it, however that I think has to do with excess solar not battery. The main loads may be your non essentials so battery won't run that. So the battery is discharging to the essential circuits but the non essential stuff Is showing as the consumption and then Grid coming in. As far as I know the CONSUMPTION is the total of the DB as measured by the CT coil. Im not sure how your DB is set up though. Once more this is my understanding and I am no expert as yet haha

Ah that is interesting and glad that some newer ones can do the blended bypass of PV and Grid. Learn something new everyday haha. So when it says bypass on the little screen and the arrows then go to load, will there then be a PV line thing showing that it too is supplamenting the load ? And I assume this blended bypass is only when there is not enough PV so then it pulls the rest of Grid ?

I do want to add, to me, Bypass means Bypass the entire system i.e no battery or PV only grid going through the inverter. Any load on Bypass is then straight grid and not powered at all by PV or battery.

You are right... When grid is down there is no Mon essential supply. Sorry I forgot about that ! Reason so is I had the guys kitchen on Aux so that a kettle can run in the kitchen when no grid and at certain battery limits so when I did simulated mains failure I saw it bringing in solar forgetting it's on the Aux port. Thank you for bringing this to my attention. second thing is Wannabe, the auto transfer switch is very clever to over come this. May I ask what size transfer switch you used and was it auto or manual ? Greta info and lessons on this post thank you

If he has enough excess solar then the non essentials can run. But good point on that as there may be times of not enough excess to run it, e.g if the washing machine is on non essential and it's washing day could be a trouble but then switch it on.

Hello What is the general preferred method to capacity test a battery / battery bank ? Also is there any other way to determine the state of a battery / bank ? i.e those car battery Cold Cranking Amps machine or a similar sort of machine ? We can measure voltage and it shows full but then won't run a 100watts for 30 minutes, so curious to find out how batteries are tested and a agreed upon method if there is such a thing

I missed this reply sorry but that makes a lot of sense. Then the ones with Let through or Bypass have either a second track or a higher rated track.

Ah ok sot then if I understand correct then the 5kw is the most it would do, no more even in bypass.

That is great ! Thank you. Just need to now get back into learning Raspberry haha.

Thank you, the Owl seems interesting, did a quick Google and looks good, I like the plotting. Only thing I see I can get in the UK which is fine but may need one sooner. Still may just get one haha

No not yet, that is very cool, will search for it and have a see. And thanks for the VPS offer as well, that is great ! Thank you