Shai

you can not exceed MPPT voltage.
you can exceed MPPT Amps to a certain degree (1A-5A) to be safe.

I have 7200W of installed panels have not seen more than 6400W since Feb this year.
but the Ave Production on a day has almost doubled from the previous 1 string off 4400W.

more panel is worth gold wen it is cloudy, hence why i opted for more panels vs extra Batt.
next step is one more Batt.

I'm looking for something similar to this but I am not on prep paid. I would just like a simple counter that mimics my actual meter reading so I can view it in ha. Ie: if I can input my current meter reading and then it will continue to count based on my 'total consumed entity' in HA. 

Check out this solution I am developing. Link
GitHub
GitHub - pietermullertrust/Geysermen: Control Deye/SunSyn...
Control Deye/SunSynck Inverters to monitor and dump excess solar power created into geysers - pietermullertrust/Geysermen

The price per W is higher with the 460W panels. And if you calculate the VoC per string, you cannot connect 10x460W in one string on Deye 5kW. You can put max 9 x 460W = 4140W vs 8 x 550W  = 4400W. Better wattage per string for cloudy days. And less mounting hardware and cost for 8 vs 9 panels. 

Your inverter can only invert 5000W. The MPPTs can do 6500W, but then your batteries have to be taking at least 1500W of charge (the rest going to the grid/backup).

This is very useful info thanks Werner. To clarify my understanding of your trend:
 
You can pull 6500W from PV since the DC-DC converter it rated for this. But you can only invert 5500W to 230Vac. So during the peak PV production the balance is sent to the battery. (Or lost once the battery is full)
 
PS.
Great to see you can run 8kW of panels on a 5kW inverter. 

Just to add to this, if you have a relatively new Centurian Gate Motor, you could connect the Status LED pin from the motor to a GPIO pin on the Sonoff SV and either through Tasmota/ESPHome, use it to determine whether the gate is open/closed. 

I use ESPHome with the Sonoff SV , here is my YAML config if anyone would like it

And this is how I have it setup in HA with mushroom cards.
I also have a telegram automation in NODE RED that notifies me if the gate is open for > 1 minute.

gate-motor.yaml

If you get a gain of 15⁰ in the middle of winter you are doing good . The gains will be more summer time . We are offgrid but boost the geyser every day during the winter . During the summer there is a lot of days we dont boost at all .

Also avialable at Communica . Only had good service from them .

Getting there.  PWM control works a treat

So how many 50 Rands do you need for the 3rd battery? 🤔
Here I am still on 1 battery and I know ideally I would be so much more independent with a second one or at least another 3kWh.
My R100 a month budget (and I don't even use that mostly) equates to R1200 a year or R12 000 over ten years. 
The additional capacity would cost me around R30 000. So from that perspective, at least in my mind, it just does not make financial sense. If and when my battery needs replacing, then I would definitely get a larger capacity. 

You can put those 8 panels on one MPPT no problem. You do not have to use both MPPT's.

Ive done exactly this. Using my Pow R2, bought one of these temperature sensors https://www.diyelectronics.co.za/store/temperature/297-waterproof-temperature-sensor.html?search_query=dsb18b20&results=1.
 
Then soldered it to the pins exposed on the board. Used ping IO4 (do not use IO5 as it is connected to the power measuring chip and it will damage it, i know :P). Extended the probe cable with alarm wiring, as they are thin and cheap. I think you can go max 10 meter. Attached the probe next to the thermostat against the tank side wall thing.
 


 
Using following esphome code
 
On home assistant you then get

and

And setup ddns

I use a Greenrich UP5000 battery with solar on the SunSynk 5.5Kva inverter.
Very good battery, no issues at all. Installed in August 2022.
"2C" discharge means that the unit can produce "twice its rated current over time". 
The Greenwich is a 5Kwh Battery. At 1C, it could produce 5000w for 1 hour, or 500w for 10 hours, ect..
At 2C, the battery can produce 7500w (maximum rated) for 30min.
Also, keep in mind that your inverter will need to handle 7500w for that to make any realistic impact. Checking the specs of your Growat inverter, it can only handle 7500w for 5s before overload, so no need to worry about the battery.

Do you realise they will charge you R395 PER PANEL shipping?
Anyway, 550W are better for that inverter. Whoever told you otherwise, they don’t know what they are talking about. 

Thank you. 
Iinverter warehouse reputable? 
 

For Voc the maximum is 500V so one can go to a max of 9 panels. Under normal max power conditions the Vmp will still be under 425V for the MPPT. 
If you want to max out the inverter rating the 2 strings of 6 seems the way to go. 8 or 9 in one string means one cannot just add a few more on MPPT2.

I am using this setup at the moment. One 150 litre geyser is pre heating the water with a geyserwise / EV pump unit. Its element is disabled and it doesn't use electricity. My second geyser (200l) has an element with a controller, with the EV pipes running straight into the geyser. It only turns on if the water temperature drops below 55 degrees and it receives warm water from the 1st geyser.
Benefits:
Your main using geyser is the only one with an element.  It doesn't get cold water in, the water it receives is usually 55 degrees or more, which means the primary geyser water remains hot Its element works seldom, so the geyser lasts a long time and it doesn't use much power EV running straight into the geyser is MUCH more efficient that an EV flat panel, pump & geyserwise setup My primary geyser is usually at 75 Degrees plus Drawbacks
It isn't very efficient when it is cloudy. Although my electrical solar still generate about 50% power, this drops to about 25%. If its raining there is no heat and it will go onto grid / your solar power system There is some heat loss in transferring hot water from one geyser to another. Ensure your pipes are well insulated. If I have to replace the primary geyser or the system, I would do it differently. I would fit a larger 250 - 300 litre geyser with the EV running straight into the geyser. This, when using the sun is much better than the pump / geyserwise setup. Those setups in winter keeps circulating the water at night to prevent your pipes to freeze and really stuffs up your hot water generation. Following this, I will put in a proper gas geyser like the new bosch ones, that measures water temperature at inlet and outlet and only turns on if the water at the inlet is below a certain temperature. Also ensure it has enough flow for your shower & bath to run simultaneous and does not have a pilot flame (Auto ignite). These units are not cheap, last price I got was in the region of about R18k. You also need a gas installation in your house, which most people running solar have because it is much more efficient for cooking.
The benefits with such a setup is that it will only switch to gas when your solar isn't working, thus eliminating the need for an element in the solar geyser.
 

None of the above schemes. The correct one (in a simplified way) is this:
 

Yeah sure not problems. please see the screen shots below.
I need to run my geyser twice a day for 1 1/2 hours to get a nice hot morning shower and bath for the young-one in the evening.
It consists of 3 rules, two the turn on the geyser one morning one afternoon and one to turn it off after 1 1/2 hours. I'll post the afternoon example and the turn off automation's.
The "turn on" consists of two triggers, one for 4 pm if there is no LS or 1 1/2 hours before LS starts (this is a calendar event that is created by the ESkomsepush's integration)

For the Condition and action there is one each as per below.

Turning the geyser off is pretty simple.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Hi @Pops your airfryer is inverter-friendly, and so is fridge, poolpump, angle grinder, lawn mower, hair dryer, electric guitar, chainsaw, jumping castle. The important thing is learning the power consumption of each appliance, and make sure the agregate power does not go beyond the kW rating of your inverter. If it does the inverter will protect itself by switching off, that does mean not it has failed, it will reset again if load is lower again. 

The Deye 5k has 2 MPPT controllers.
1 string of 6 x 49.2V = 295.2V
2 strings of 3 x 49.2V = 147.6V - this is too low for the MPPT
Just ensure you don't exceed the max Voltage per MPPT - 425Vd.c
The below table is from SunSunk 5k, Deye should be the same: