maxomill

v series inverter running self consumption 20A inverter supply 63A Eskom supply breaker use max 6.5 kw 0 DC battery demand unless eishkom off 10a charge from inverter 35 A PV max current 0A export but can do 1.2 kw cheers

just an idea might fit your scenario since you want grid tied high voltage panels like this https://www.sustainable.co.za/renewsys-deserv-260w-high-voltage-solar-panel.html there are others out there as well grid tied likes high voltage check it out cheers

great reading guys just a quick question there seems to be that 2 fuses are mentioned a lot why the chances of the two fuses blowing at the same time are minimal are there scenarios of sometimes the positive leg fuse verses neg leg fuse ? just curious cheers

thanks guys @Jaco de Jongh there wont be any icc but I love the battery monitor idea cheers

thanks guys but no lipo no pylons as I believe they need to talk to the inverter remember I have a pwm cc to consider looking at 4 x 200ah in series or something trying to get to the 20 k range for complete set also want a victron battery monitor to switch back to Eskom any ideas on that would be appreciated cheers

have a guy that needs new batteries at present he has 8 100 ah bats 4s 2p being a old 48v system with about 3.4 kw panels and 2 pwm charge controllers I told him to go with 4 series 12v 200 ah bats to simplify things Now the big questions battery recommendations excl lipo I have been impressed with Omni power in the general range of 2500 cycle lives Trojans are good but seem to be in the 1750 cycle life range or maybe I'm looking at it wrong cheers all

hi there always loved this idea but where's the 50 v come from what mods do you do cheers

at the point where you show the two meters whats the load on the inverter does it match the output of the out meter

HI there what geyser do you have and how many people in the house cheers

sounds like you have a floating earth on your old panels are you sure the old panels are actually earthed and to where did you have shoes on when you got the tingly feeling do you still get shocked if panels are not connected to the inverter is your inverter earthed

I have a v series which I run in self consumption mode does the goodwe not have that or at least a swap back to Eskom maybe as batteries are expensive thanks for the great info interesting reading cheers

hi guys am I reading this right at about 8ish your batteries are at about 25% soc . does that mean 75 % depth of discharge ? what are the cable sizes from the panels . thin bad thick is good just asking cheers

Ok guys the spare panel and test was just my way of explaining how I got the idea sorry I didn't make myself clear, my bad my big picture or question is would it be possible to use this idea on a bigger scale like connecting to a house that has a larger solar set up ? first of all could it work ? and if so, what do we need to do it so on and so forth so my theory is that when the batteries are full or the load is small then all excess energy goes to heating (geyser) and is not being wasted like having an inline dump load my thoughts go along the

Bare with me for a moment and you might see something interesting so I have a spare 37 voc 250 w panel and was wondering if I could charge a 12v battery with it but im concerned that the controller could not accept 37 v or at least 31 while starting ( yes it pulls the panel down to 12v while charging but still concerned) so I have a 110v 1500w geyser element lying around which I placed in line with the solar panel this caused a voltdrop over the element of 18v which meant that the controller now also got about 18 v which it should be quite happy with ( 18v x

I also have the v series and think its the best thing since chappies you can have the grid tie function on or off I run mine in what I believe is called self consumption mode meaning ie it subsidises the solar with Eskom or whatever solar cannot supply it takes Eskom for the rest my main reason for buying this unit was not to cycle the batteries today at 12 I see 10 -40 w at the supply to the inverter, this fluctuates as the load /sun does esp cloudy days im not sure but this could be importing or exporting as the load/sun fluctuates my concern is tha

maybe im too simplistic but I think you should install 2 contactors one on each incomer connected to the incomer that opens is the Eskom goes down this means that each inverter will not see each other 3 contactors would be better to isolate 1 and 2 from each other and from 3 cheers

funny you should mention the 650 watt and gap I bought a reconned 150l gap as a pet project last week for R900 (couldn't find a 100l) installed a 650w element and it is pre fed by my waste of money 300l solar flat plate geyser (which got a whole 11 degree raise from 17 to 28 today)( I call it an elect geyser with some solar assistance) I have the gap feeding only my shower and big geyser feeding rest of house it runs off the inverter with no timer and consumes 6 kw daily my electosolar geyser is now set for 1hour in early morning 3kw my usage this week has

hi @SilverNodashi what kind of element is it screw in or flange type I don't mind cheers max

i see these guys sell a 1000w geyser element cheers

Hi @plonkster I see your logic Luckily for me my washing machine is on my solar side but having said that I do have a "real power " monitor on the incomer to the inverter and the bastard washing machine does do exactly as you say. I see it jump up and down by about 200w when on/off luckily for me that my prepaid meter "Hexing type" does not trip but does charge I think when exporting . it only shows a diode symbol when exporting I had a kaco gti with a microcare grid tie limiter and it worked but there was a couple of seconds reaction time while things switched on/o

Ok so after a bit of thinking my last post may work but quite high tech , I think I may have a KISS keep it super simple aka Heath Robinson what happens if we monitor the power to the house SCENARIO we are using grid power and as the gti starts feeding power the grid power goes down (gets less) now check this out a LOAD SHED RELAY http://mce.co.za/product/electronic-load-shed-relay/ These guys also do them but min 5a http://www.electrodev.co.za/product/load-shed-relay-dls/ so now we place a load shed relay on the incomer to your house when gr

Bear with me for a moment , so while surfing I came across this Optical Utility Meter LED Pulse Sensor Loading zoom

This is @plonkster theory from my old post I've thought of this before. The context was a little different, it was specifically for people like @Wetkit with the tripping prepaid meter, the idea being that you turn on an array of loads (a bunch of 100W incandescent lamps seems like a good idea) to cancel out backfed power. In this application it has to be extremely fast. The effect, when used with a slowly adjusting inverter, is that occasionally some lights go on for a few seconds to absorb the energy. First though, have to ask this one question. Can your V-series avoid feedback

I love the idea of placing a cheap digital volt meter on each battery permanently I call it a early warning system you can soon see a problem battery quick question does your positive to the inverter come from the top string and your negative from the bottom string cheers

I don't know the imeon and how clever it is I asked almost the same question a while back as I have the axpert /infini v series which can also grid tie . but I run my set up in self consumption mode to keep things simple, this way means my bats are not used or cycled a cheap idea is to place the item on a timer and when you know that there is excess then set the timer to switch (self consumption or normal solar ) not fool proof though another Heath Robinson is to keep the grid tie on , but switch the inverter off with a timer and run the system off batteries during the