Youda

Well, the truth is, that even with 3x 1P Hybrid Inverter installed, you still can use 3P loads, benefit from solar and everyhing will be in-phase. But these loads have to stay connected as depicted here: They will benefit from solar, but once there will be a blackout, they will stop. During blackout the inverter will be providing power to the three separate 1P outlets only. But these won't be synced with each other (as with this setup you cannot use parallel kit cables). Speaking of legality - I have no clue whether it's okay or not.

Technically, it SHOULD work, since the Intelligent Slot Cards (SNMP, modbus, wifi) are universal for the whole InifiniSolar family. Voltronic calls all these cards "goldfinger". For the card, it does not matter if the inverter is 3P or 1P. And all the cards can talk to mobus server. But there's one potential problem with the setup - modbus card can operate in 2 modes. The first one is reseting a sum of total power in all phases to be zero. The second mode resets power in each phase individually. Therefore, you may end-up in a situation where your meter will be tracking the sum, which I bet is not what you want. So, there will be no smoke and the setup will do "something". The best doc's on the topic are on the MPPs page: https://www.mppsolar.com/v3/portfolio/energy-meter-modbus-card-modbus-server/

Just let us know how it worked Sidenote - this mode won't blend the PV power with the grid power, so when the load is bigger than what panels+battery can deliver at the moment, then infini will auto-switch load to the grid and PV power will be used for charging the battery only. After couple of minutes, infini will auto-switch load back to the solar power (once the load drops to a lower level and battery voltage will be above re-discharge voltage value as specified in infinis settings).

Hi Nicholas, this won't work. Three InfiniSolar Super 4KW units cannot be combined into a 3-phase system. You can parallel them, but only for the purpose of creating a single-phase 12KW system. If you use the parallel communication cables and current sharing cables while feeding each unit from a different phase, it will produce an error. What you CAN do, is to use 3x standalone unit, each being fed from a different phase and each having it's own modbus meter and modbus card. BUT, the correct angle between the phases will be maintained only when grid is ON. Once you will loose the grid, the inverters will became out of sync slowly. Therefore, it's not advisable to feed a 3-phase AirCon or a borehole pump with this setup. For a correct 3-phase system, with battery backup, you'll need InfiniSolar 10KW 3-phase model.

Hi Clive, If you switch your inverter into mode Off-grid III, then there's absolutely no chance of feeding back into the grid. Spikes will be sent to the battery. In the modes Off-grid I and II, the internal grid relay in the inverter is still connected,therefore spikes can hit the meter. Just try it. Regs, Youda

TTT, what was the root cause? There was some bug in the wiring, yes?

Mounted like this:

Mine is Noark Ex9PD2, 2x while LED, 230V AC, separate neutrals:

You're right! Actually I'm using a slightly different version which has only 2 lights, but each has it's own seperate neutral. An it fits in a single DIN rail module (which I needed as there's never enough space in my DB)

Aaargh, okay ICC can't suck the info via CANbus... It's some other intelligent bus Important is that: - ICC and Pylon can speak to each other. - combining Axpert and lithium without ICC or an alternative is a struggle.

IMHO, the PV voltage is too low, so the MPPT controller is unable to reach Maximum Power Point on the I/U curve of the PV modules. Can you check in the manual what is the recommended number of PV modules? I would say that 12 wil be listed as a total minimum. My2cents

Okay, now I see that even that strange unit rated as 5kVA/4kW has a meaningfull existence. As with all the modern gadgets, switched power suplies and LED lights, a typical home clearly has an overall PF of 0.8 or similar. Thanks

You are welcome Good luck with your solar setup!

It's fair to say that Axpert is a bit dumb in terms of communication with the battery, so in order to utilize full potential of any lithium smart battery, including Pylon, you have to add ICC or some other monitoring that can read battery status over CANbus some smart bus and switch to grid when batteries are really flat (and not to switch prematurely, based on the voltage drop only). The next thing that I don't like on Pylon is 15s, which translates to a higher current draw needed for powering the same load when compared to a standard 16s packs. And the recommended draw from a single brick is 25A, if I do remember, which is far from great. (I personally went for custom build-to-order LFP pack that has 100A discharge current per brick). The great features of Pylon is cheap and easy scaling, possiblity to gain 7yrs warranty and worldwide availability. Over all, Pylon is a good choice and with 4 bricks it will work great for a typical home. But having just one brick sucks...

Okay...is there a situation where one could pull 5kVA from a 5kVA/4kW rated unit? I don't think so... So, in this particular case the 5kVA label has no information value for any user. It's same like saying that there's 8 or 12 mosfets in the inverter - it might be true, but for me as an user/installer, it does not mean that 12 is better than 8, because it says nothing about the quality or rating of the components. Contrary, another unit, rated as 5kVA/5kW sounds logical - with a resistive load, I can draw 5kVA/kW. With capacitive or inductive load, it depends on actual PF of that load. Am I right, please?

Socket is built-in. But the plug should come in a bag with manual and comm cables. If not, its just a simple plug that you can buy in any shop selling resistors/diodes etc. Look: these two came with one unit. One is for EMS, other for Conn Dry. Physically they are the same.

Let's take a look at an example, please: if an inverter is rated for 5kVA/4kW - what is the maximum resistive load it can safely handle?

That connector should be included in the box with the inverter. At least my Infini came with that connector in the package. 2 wires are okay, as one is phase and other is neutral. Ground wire is common.

Hi Chris, I'm using a very similar this one.The first light for Eskom, the second one for inverter. It fits on DIN rail, which is nice. But you can use DIN rail voltmeter for example, if you want to have something more sophisticated.

Hi Thembeni, the power of 275Wp x 9 PV modules (2475W) is just a possible maximum that in reality is limited by a number of factors. The power (watts) is a function of Volts x Amps, so if you have only a very small load connected to your system(ie: laptop), then you have the Volts but you're drawing just a very little Amps. Therefore, there's not much power generated/consumed. Solar power works like that both these two conditions have to be met at the same time in order to generate the power: the sun has to shine directly on the PV modules you must have a decent load turned-on If you don't have any load connected, then the only other place where energy can go is the batteries. So, if your batteries are empty, then you will see some power being generated no matter that other loads are off. Actual power will be limited by amount of panels, technical parameters of your solar charger and by the solar insolation, of course. Once your batteries are full, they virtually stop drawing a power. So, charge your battery, wait for the perfect sun and then turn-on some huge appliance like geyser, air-condition or a stove. Makes sense?

Fist of all, go and check the sticker on your pump. If it says "12 Volts DC", like the sticker on the enclosed picture, then the pump does not need an inverter at all. In that case, try to power it directly from 12V battery.

Buckworth, flojet 03526144 is 12V DC device (https://www.rvupgradestore.com/FloJet-Triplex-Water-Pump-p/86-8320.htm) Therefore, the pump should be connected to the battery circitut directly and not via inverter. If you connect 12V pump to the 230V outlet of the inverter, then it's obvious that something is gonna trip (breaker or a protection circuit). Not to mention that pump might explode...or burn at least. Can you doublecheck that wiring, please?

Yeah, I'm using the lamp workaround too, as I was reluctant to spend money on a decent resistor. One 230V 24W lamp per inverter is perfect. Connected it paralell to the DC fuse and the power on sequence is like this: connect lamp, it starts to glow wait couple of seconds, lamp starts to go dim close the fuse disconnect the lamp But just like Plonkster noted, this works only for manual opeation. If the BMS is fiddling with the battery on its own, some other workaround must be implemented. Not mentioning, that if BMS really does, then there's something bad going on (over current maybe?). @Nicholas, can you check the BMS log files for any suspicious activity? Or ask FreedomWon tech support, maybe?

Hi Nicholas, I'm not an expert but I've experienced E7 (relay fault) in these two cases: 1) Grid power was applied first, inverter started, then battery was connected. Error 7 was generated immediatelly. 2) Battery was connected, then PV switch was turned on, and grid was turned on just right after that. The result was Error 7. In both cases the hard shutdown and restart in the correct order solved the issue. So, the battery first, then PV switch on, and grid on as a last step, after a minute or two. I can't speak for your setup, but if the FreedomWon battery is able to disconnect/reconnect itself automatically, then this could cause E7 for sure. There are quite fat capacitors on the battery side of Infini, so every re-connection of the battery creates a nice huge shock to these caps...and to the DC board too. Originally, Infini was designed to work with Lead Acid, so nobody took possible smart BMS effects into account, as LA+BMS combination is a rare animal. As of today, there's a function in SolarPower called "Activate li-fe battery". AFAIK, it has nothing to do with equalize, but when activated it slowly charges capacitors first, allowing you to connect a li-fe battery without any sparks then. So, my 2cents: FreedomWon smart BMS disconnected the battery couple of times, in order to protect the cells for some reason and this re-connection caused gradual destruction of all the units. What do you think? Is it possible?

Wow, I'd really like to know whether it's possible to lower this selfconsumption. Thanks a lot!