vlan_one

Unfortunately not. I am not reading the comms bus. I am using external outputs to indicate the state. There was someone on GITHub trying to use the 485 bus to communicate with the alarm, but I think he was only able to read the bus, but not write to it at the time and then stopped development.

I actually did. It turned out that the quoted max current of 50mA was a bit far fetched. I found a series resistor on that output of the main alarm board to be burnt to a crisp. I measured my opto circuit and it was at about 40mA. I managed to fix/salvage the track and replace the resistor. I then tweaked the opto circuit to somewhere around only 2mA. I then reconnected it all and added another channel. Programmed the alarm outputs and I can now see the state of the alarm (armed/disarmed) as well as if it is stay or away armed. I also took it a step further and can also remote away arm/disarm the alarm using a relay on a arm-zone. I use the Home Assistant Alarm panel integration to "secure" it with a pin. I also have the option to only allow remote arming and not disarming from within the ESPHome code.

Does anyone have any installation/configuration experience with one of these yet? A friend helped someone install one, but the battery is not charging and the manual is of zero help.

I just tested this again with the steps below: Slave Inverter switched off (DC still connected) Slave AC Load disconnected Slave AC In disconnected Master switches to battery Master has AC input and AC icon visible.

Hi Coulomb, I do have separate AC-in and AC-out breakers installed. I did this for the reason of being able to take one unit offline for maintenance. The master will still have AC in, but I will actually just verify that. The periodical checks will have to be every second as it almost immediately switches to battery. I still have to replace the master's battery cables, so will give this a test again. From the parallel guide it states that the AC-out neutrals need to be bonded. I have also bonded the AC-in neutrals on recommendation of an engineering friend of mine. I wonder if this could have any impact? I have attached a diagram of my DB wiring for reference.

Hi, I did a search and cannot find the info I need. It might very well be that I am not searching for the correct question. I had difficulty in adding a title to this post that will make sense for the next person searching for this type of info. I have 2x Axpert MKS 5kva running in a single phase parallel configuration. I needed to change the battery cables of both units. I thought that I could just take one down at a time and all will be fine, but seems not. My shutdown process was to take down one unit at a time using the process below: 1. disconnect the PV 2. switch the slave inverter of at the power switch below 3. switch the AC output breaker off 4. switch the AC input breaker off 5. disconnect the main DC supply At point 4 is where I can't seem to understand what's happening. As soon as I disconnect the AC input, the remaining inverter switches to battery mode and I can't get it to switch back. Even after disconnecting the DC supply from the powered off inverter the remaining unit does not switch back to utility. I thought if the master does not see the slave it will continue to work as normal, but only after bringing the other unit back online does it switch back to utility. Is this normal? Would I need to power off both inverters, set both back to 'single' and power up the remaining inverter? Is there a setting that can prevent this from happening? Or am I expecting high availability from something that was not designed to perform high availability? I do understand that if you are running in a 3 phase configuration you cannot simply take one unit offline. My question would be, what will happen under a true failure condition of one of the inverters? Any info or past experiences would be appreciated.

I have tried to post to this topic twice on two different occasions. I can see the reply once posted, but when I return to the post, my reply is gone. If my replies somehow displays twice, I apologize. The last post I can see was from Tim Thursday 07/05/2020 @ 09:03. I would like to know if anyone has tested the Voltronic Docker in a parallel setup?

I only saw this reply now! Does the integration with your current armed response company still work?

I have read about this way of doing it. Sonoff also has a version like this. I though it was such an ingenious idea. After reading this I am glad I went with the normal Sonoff Touch versions. Luckily my house is from the 80's, way before they invented the lazy-man's cable where they don't use conduit. I have conduit everywhere and 'converting' a light to a Sonoff took no more than 10min, including pulling in a neutral. I hope the replacements give you a good service life. I have ordered at least two spare Sonoff Touches per type just in case. I can't see myself going back to clicky light switches.

The Axpert is lousy/useless at reporting SOC. I have checked this numerous times. The BMV will report a SOC of 98% and the Axpert will report 20-30% less depending on the load. You will see the best results when pairing the BMV and a control software with the Axpert. The control software will then use the BMV SOC reporting to control the Axpert.

Hi, If you are using the midpoint measurement then I will assume you have the batteries in series? If so then I will take a stab and say that you will need a battery balancer (HA-01 at least) to balance your batteries and prevent the midpoint from deviating that much. I am sure someone else will be along to confirm this.

I see that. The MKS was about R10600. You could reach out to them and ask. The stock code is: T0003900 for the ERS KING 5K.

I bought an Axpert MKS from Voltex last week and at first they sent me a King in error. Voltex stocks them if you can’t find a second hand one...

sorry for the assumption. if you are able to get onto a SSH terminal window of HASS, just issue the command ping 8.8.8.8 and see if you get a reply.

According to your ipconfig output this is your laptop IP and your router should be 0.1 for the wired network. Can you ping the Google DNS server from the pi?

It seems your default gateway is incorrect. If your Pi is in .192.168.0.0/24 subnet then there is no way to get to 192.168.2.1. Try and change your gateway to 192.168.0.1 (or whatever your router IP Address is)

Same here. I have had countless e-mails back and forth with Manie with in-depth info on the MQTT capabilities in order to integrate ICC with my home automation system. I have been able to get feed info from the iOS emoncms app without any charges. I also export to PVOutput. Manie is always willing to assist and I would prefer getting support from and supporting the source. Apart from that, ICC is the way to go. I think it's either Coulomb or Weber that made the comment about driving a car without a fuel gauge if you do not have a BMV in your system. The same goes for ICC. my 2c for what it is worth.

wow, I have not heard this line in years 😁

I have not done switches specifically, but I have used them for switching lights and they generally fit nicely in the wall. I would like to be able to switch wall switches, but the Sonoff Basic is not rated high enough (only 10A) to be safely installed into the wall for a 16A rated wall socket. You and I might remember not to overload the socket, but the other occupants of the dwelling will not remember. btw, for lights, I recommend, Sonoff Touch T1 (1 - 3 gang) and the Tasmota software, pair them with Home Assistant and they make life so much easier.

I agree keeping all the devices on the same network/subnet/IP range (at first at least). This will make troubleshooting a bit easier. To get back to the initial issue. If you go to developer tools > states, do you see the entity for the TP Link? It think it should be switch.switcheroo unless the TP Link integration does something else with it. If you see it you could try adding a switch or an entity to the frontend if you use the LovelaceUI. I am using a hybrid of Lovelace and old legacy config files so I am not always sure where the legacy config stops working and Lovelace takes over.

I have not no. I am not well versed in Linux and therefore prefer to keep these applications separate to allow easier troubleshooting. My devices are also not all in one location so I need to have them separate in any case.

I can confirm great service and he stays in contact until you have your shipment.

I am using the diodes as above. It supposedly will prevent a shaded string from “syphoning” power from the unshaded panels. I have yet to prove this. Does anyone have proof if this actually works or not? Theoretically it seems to make sense.

I have tried monitoring my IDS alarm’s armed/disarmed state. I used one of the relay outputs (12v 50mA) on the mainboard and set it to go high when armed. I powered an opto-isolator that would pull a digital input low/high on an esp8266. The esp would then publish armed or disarmed to a MQTT topic and Home Assistant would subscribe to this topic. It worked for a while and then the esp started playing up. I have not tried to fix it yet. I was not too phased about remote arm/disarm at the time for obvious security reasons. I really need to get this going again to be able to get notifications when the alarm is armed/disarmed.

Thank you for the reply. I thought I read somewhere that the patched firmware allows more granular charge current setting. I upgraded to 72.20e with success and ICC seems to be happy.