Warlok

https://thepowerstore.co.za/products/solis-energy-storage-6kw-hybrid-5g-inverter-with-dc-switch?variant=39384994414654&currency=ZAR&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2018-09-19&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gad_source=4&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu8uyBhC6ARIsAKwBGpTmW1-7_p00WfTGTMs_vA2qIxucfuDjJKfLfDI1QFLFGA75_A6uji0aAih-EALw_wcB Google search for Solis inverter brings up this. Funny, because I can not find it in the power store search or inverter list

R11,983.00 Cheaper than the crap axpert clone I bought 5 years ago (R13,000.00) Yes, I was green and the salesperson saw my need to try and help eskom lighten the load

Solis Energy Storage 5kW Hybrid S5 Inverter with DC switch SKU SOL-S5-EH1P6K-L R 11,983.00 Anybody have more info? Seems a bit cheap. it's from the powerstore

Anybody familiar with The Solar Guys in East London? (Legit?) https://thesolarguys.energy/product/deye-5kw-hybrid-inverter-sun-5k-sg01lp1-eu/?gad_source=4&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmMayBhDuARIsAM9HM8eGmJRwZ55kdRkHJc3-UJU3-ag2HN6hShcUcP-RaISxSBMSVW2MU-IaAvXzEALw_wcB Thanks for the link. Still shopping around

The brand will be your personal choice. Samsung is an excellent air-conditioner. After 30 years of air-con installations, the only ones that outlasted all of them is LG I'm not a LG sales person, I have a Carrier inverter in my lounge. 🙂 LG was just a bit to expensive for my budget I've installed a unit similar to the Samsung one and for 2 years no problems Then a lightning strike later and the whole building had no air-conditioning (a very pricey repair) I would personally go for individual units for each room. Installing 2x18000btu to get to 36000btu will cost way more than just getting a 36000btu As far as brands, please stick to good names; Samsung, LG, Carrier, Panasonic, etc.... Lately, Midea, Gree and even TCL made good air-cons. But the king for power consumption and performance is still LG

Thank you for the info. Will take a look

LG Dual Inverter (pricey, but very power efficient) Work out the BTU needed for each room Say the room size is 5x5 meters, use 5x5=25 then x600 and this will give you 15000 BTU's Round this off to 18000 btu as you don't get 15000btu and 12000 btu will be way to small

It finally happened. My 4kw Axpert clone blew up (error9) Took it apart and 3 IGBT transistors, a few zener diodes and a a few resistors was among the dead. I will not be repairing as I have lost faith in these type of inverters. Now I need help please. I only have R16000 to buy a new inverter. Solar= 2400W Battery = Pylontech UP5000 Inverter = NONE Software = Raspberry Pi 3B Solar Assistant Base load varies between 90-500W (Fridge/Freezer, Wifi, Alarm system, Cameras and TV) Peak load between 10:00 -14:00 (Geyser 1.5kw PTC element 150L) Using Solar and 04:00-05:00 using grid (2kW total) Would like to get the Deye 5kW or the Solis 5kW or similar. Any good suppliers you could point me to would be greatly appreciated

No, you have to get the adaptor as mentioned a few posts up. R15 (give or take)

No, you have to get the adaptor as mentioned a few posts up. R15 (give or take)

Just put it in the sleeve where the manual thermostat came out and then seal witn non drip tape.

Good day. I have used the Sonoff TH Elite on an 1.5kw ptc element on a 150L geyser for over a year now. Have not had any issues, except when I tried to extend the probe cable. The max length is 2meters, otherwise the temperature reading is way off. Better to keep the probe length unmodified.

I have joined the beta program and updated the pi. It then randomly tells me the device is not connected to the internet. I can not even connect via bluetooth. Had the system for one year without a glitch, never, not one. I checked power supply and all cables. Tried a lan cable, nothing works right. I then reverted tp the last stable version and now the problem still persists. Im getting fed up because I'm losing comms at critical times and the the pylontech just runs down and then the bms shuts the battery down. I've contacted solar assistant and they just quote what is written in their help file. Idiocracy rules.....

Good day. Not sure if I posted this previously in the correct section, so here goes..... I purchased a Sonoff THR320D to control my geyser fitted with a Geyserwise PTC Stainless Steel 230V Electrical Geyser Element 1.5kw. I previously used a geyserwise to control the element, but the time was always a few minutes off and eventually the pc board developed a problem, hence the Sonoff THR320D. My timer is set as follows. 03:30-05:30 Monday to Friday If temp <50c switch on and if temp >55c switch off 10:00-15:30 Monday to Sunday If temp <60c switch on and if temp >65c switch off It is very important that these temps and times work as they should to sync with my schedule as I'm using solar during the day and batteries at night. This is where the problem starts. Monday to Friday the geyser switches on at 03:30 and does not switch off when it reaches said 55c. or at 05:30. I have to manually switch it off. Sometimes I catch it just in time before it reaches 75c. I presume if I don't switch it off, it will just keep on heating until something pops. The 10:00-15:30 timer works perfectly. Here's the hardware/software versions etc.... Manufacturer: Sonoff Model: THR320D FW Name: SN-ESP320D0-THR3-01 Current version: 1.1.0

Good day. I purchased a Sonoff THR320D to control my geyser fitted with a Geyserwise PTC Stainless Steel 230V Electrical Geyser Element 1.5kw. I previously used a geyserwise to control the element, but the time was always a few minutes off and eventually the pc board developed a problem, hence the Sonoff THR320D. My timer is set as follows. 03:30-05:30 Monday to Friday If temp <50c switch on and if temp >55c switch off 10:00-15:30 Monday to Sunday If temp <60c switch on and if temp >65c switch off It is very important that these temps and times work as they should to sync with my schedule as I'm using solar during the day and batteries at night. This is where the problem starts. Monday to Friday the geyser switches on at 03:30 and does not switch off when it reaches said 55c. or at 05:30. I have to manually switch it off. Sometimes I catch it just in time before it reaches 75c. I presume if I don't switch it off, it will just keep on heating until something pops. The 10:00-15:30 timer works perfectly. Here's the hardware/software versions etc.... Manufacturer: Sonoff Model: THR320D FW Name: SN-ESP320D0-THR3-01 Current version: 1.1.0

Good day, Sorted out. Fitted 2x stc-1000's to my fridge and freezer, and a MTD-8 to the freezer to defrost the ice every 12 hours for 20 minutes. Still don't know how the fridge defrost works, but if I keep the temperature between 2-4 Celsius there is no ice buildup and the beers are nice and cold The stc-1000's a wonderful little devices and cheap. I will be fitting this to an old Kelvinator fridge freezer soon.

Good day to all, Symptoms were as follows, 1. Front lights flashing erratically. 2. Compressor not cycling. (stays on 24/7) 3. Evaporator freezing up. 4. Interior fan not working. 5. No response from any front control panel. What I did was, 1. Disconnected the entire pc board. (Actually broke it out due to hot glue everywhere) 2. Connected the compressor directly to an aftermarket thermostat. 3. Reconnected the fan and interior light to the door switch. Now, as per the attached wiring diagram, How the bugger does the auto defrost work? It seems that it is connected directly to the live and neutral. As far as I know the auto defrost usually goes to a little timer that will disconnect the compressor and relay power to the heater for an amount of time. I can not see this circuit in the diagram. Or am I just totally stupid?

x

Good day. This has already been answered I do not know how to link to this discussion, so I just copied and pasted it. Pylontech BMS zero deg C charging By FixAMess, May 24, 2020 in Batteries FixAMess Members 426 Posted May 24, 2020 Does the pylontech bms restrict charging at low temps? The manual says it works between 0-50C, but does it have a low temp cutoff, no charging? Quote martynw Members 17 Posted May 25, 2020 Yes, the BMS restricts the rate. I found this out a few years ago because my stack is in the garage and the temperature in there got down to about 5°C during the first winter after I installed it. The BMS limits both charge and discharge rates on a sliding scale depending on the temperature. Since then I built a better stack with about 200mm of solid insulation around it and a proper heating and cooling system which helps to keep the temperature > 20°C in the winter and < 30°C in the summer. This is the chart that I got for the US2000B, presume the newer models would have similar failsafes built in. FixAMess 1 Quote FixAMess Members 426 Author Posted May 26, 2020 Thank you very much, even Pylontech told me it does have low temp cutoff, but nobody has given me the actual parameters like you have! Quote martynw Members 17 Posted May 26, 2020 No problem, it was quite a bit of head scratching at the time as to why the stack was suddenly taking much longer to charge.

....and this is about half an hour later. Thought it was the cooling effect of the water, but seems to be stable.

Good day. Rather searched this topic before starting a new post. Realized the whole week that my panels were only producing 2.1kw (2.4ish) system. (10:40 in the morning) Well, I thought, it's winter and this should be expected. But anyhow, I climbed on the roof and saw a thin layer of dust. Cleaned them using the sponge side of a squeegee and a bit of running water. Got off the roof and immediately saw a jump to 2.4kw . That's an immediate gain of about 300w. Where I live, although on a farm, there's still a lot of mining dust blowing the whole place full. When I was in town, this was a weekly occurrence. About using soap, Imo don't, just use clean water. If you don't get all the soap off, there will be a sticky residue enabling the dust to stick to it. Got this info on google. Anti-reflective (AR) coating: An anti-reflective coating for solar panels is a nano coating which reduces the reflection and glare produced by an uncoated solar panel. It does this by reducing the difference in refractive index between air and glass. Soap will remove this protective layer over time, unless it's specially made for this type of cleaning. (I think)

Good day. Almost time for a new battery. Found this one on the Powerstore. Looks well made, and cheaper than the 4.8kw Pylon. Any feedback will be appreciated.

I have always avoided connecting my inverter to the outside plugs due to the fact that if garden services was to plug in 2* 2000w lawnmowers into that, it could possibly damage my solar system. But now my outside plugs are connected via a 5amp cb which gives just over 1kw before tripping. NOT MY INSTALL, BUT PRETTY CLOSE 🤣