lancelot

Interesting diverts for the fan heat, does it make a difference? Very neat install.

I have 5 Pylontech US3000C batteries on a Sunsynk 8kw inverter, after 5 years one gave an error code and on removing it was swollen. have extended warrantee for 10 years. Took it in to Solardeity in Johannesburg after a month was told "the battery is swollen due to exposure to high voltage. Unfortunately, this type of damage is not covered under warranty, and as such, the warranty is void". Other 4 batteries are still working fine, either their BMS failed leading to high voltage or Sunsynk decided to send high voltage to batteries only affecting one in the middle of a 5 bank set. The warranty is not worth much, buyer beware.

You sure your gate is not 2 x 12v batteries in series?

Per specs Inverter max PV input is 6000w with max Voltage 480vdc and MPPT Range @ Operating Voltage: 100VDC ~385 VDC. Your 4 panels on one string will easily be under that (1800w currently and about 180v ), you want to be between the 100-385V then it will charge, 2 panels on a string will only give you around 88v. Depending on the Open Circuit voltage of your panels (should be around 44v) you can connect up to 10 in series without any problem.

Great idea thx. Kinda forgot about those starter batteries. What are they called? Hope they can do 24v.

I think the mechanical rotary type timers with backup will work as they turn and switch the relay mechanically although I wanted more exact timing, i.e. send signal to switch the generator at shopping center of exactly at 7pm(even if mains are still off). I can not program my generator panel with that function.(Panel only allows to set time during which generator should not start) Normally the timer will be powered by mains but during load shedding it is on its own battery backup. (can't feed timer with both mains and generator power) At the outdoor generator there is no single point that has 220v during both mains and generator power.

Do anyone knows of a timer that switches even if it is on it's battery backup. My application is to switch a generator on and off . My timer keeps the time and displays the LED but does not triger the contactor either on or off while on battery power.

I have completed my installation and it is running perfectly. One 450w panel to 24v solar charge controller connected to lithium 100ah 24v battery. Then installed a Centurion D10 gate motor that runs on 24v connected to load on charge controller. Lights on walls with 24v globes(imported) through 24v day night switch also from load. Via low voltage cut out switch so if battery runs low due to weather, lights will switch of first to give gate motor priority on the battery. I also have a dc to dc converter that reduce the voltage to 12v for finger readers, cameras, 4g modem and intercom.

I have almost same question, I want to power gate motor and 70w of 12v lights and wifi transmission from a farm gate, keep everything 12v then no need for inverter with a 200ah battery at the gate and a 300w panel with 12v charger. What I don't understand is how to connect the 12v to the Centurion D5 evo motor, do I remove the current 9ah batttery and run gate just on my 200ah battery with a 12v input to the gate motor?

Why will anyone not export to grid if they have an old analog spinning meter and use the utility as a big battery? Except the fact that the utilility will frown upon that off course. 😏

With regard to the sound of the 8kw inverter. Within 6m you still here it clearly. It switches on and off so no even noice. I will not install it close to me. Spend a little and put it in the garage.

I changed my value of continuous draw from the grid from 100w to 50w, the amplitude of the Grid Power spikes decreased consideribly, but still got 2 negative spikes (very small) this morning.(second pic)

OK but I want the battery never to go below 30% if grid is available so that will be all blocks ticked. I though doing that will let the inverter use the grid to charge the battery and then draw again from battery to power loads which will be not very efficient. But reading through the training manual it states that the inverter can only do one thing at a time, either charge the battery using the inverter or discharge the battery. So I guess that means it uses the grid directly to power loads when battery is under the set SOC without any efficiency losses while also charging the battery.

I just want to confirm this. I want the inverter to start using grid power when the batteries are down to 30% SOC, not to charge batteries just to power the loads until PV charge the batteries over 30% again. I have set "Shut Down" in the Battery menu at 20% SOC (which will only happen if the grid is down). Is the way to do that - In system mode set SOC 30% and tick Charge from Grid on all timers?

Thx for sharing the training manual, interesting reading. I changed the extension CT cable yesterday to a twisted pair, so far today I did not have any negative Grid power, holding thumbs. I still get the weird jumps in Grid Power see blue line on graph, (only about 300w for a few minutes, 2 or 3 times a day) My timer is set to 30% SOC on all timers, inverter set to draw 100w from grid and battery is over 60% when this occur with plenty of PV and it does not necessarily happen when consumption is peaking. Anybody getting similar peaks? Another thing to keep in mind on a new installation is placement of the Inverter, the 3 fans are louder than I expected, I can hear it from 10m away. It switched on and off but runs when PV or load is running high.

Attached two picture of the screen taken minutes apart. Weirdly the one shows a positive value of 114w and the other a negative value of 176w, I don't understand, arrow on CT is pointing towards grid. I extended the CT wire by about 2m, will it make a difference if the added wire is not twisted?

Do any of you have similar import of power from the grid on your Sunsynk? I set the inverter to draw 100W from the grid all the time (3 fase Conlog Smart meter from Tshwane). On reviewing the graphs I get random spikes of power pull from grid, while batteries are still charged. It's just a small amount but still perplexing. I also witnessed a few times that (max 180w) got pushed back twice during the day, my meter did not trip which is a surprise based on experience of other users on this forum.

Do you have big consumption during the day? If not your batteries are going to be 100% charged before 10am with those many panels. I also assume you are going to use all 4 strings on the MPPT (4*6)?

I use either SolarmanPro or Solarman Smart. Both on PC and mobile. I find the smart app is beter for history graphs like to see what was lowest SOC today. And Pro is updating faster and is easier to check current data.

The 3 drums are actually to refill a thirsthy generator on another property of ours. The 700kva generator uses 129l of diesel per hour if running at 100%. Interesting there I have a 428pkw solar installation so once generator is running the solar start to produce again and assist the generator much like possible on small scale with Sunsynk.

Or put it into the municipal battery and use it later? Asking for a friend.

Nice to have something to "do" with all your production. 😉

So far my grid has been completely off so can't comment on transfer time sorry. Batteries are amazing was running a 12000 btu aircon last night for 45 minutes and it only dropped by 4%.

+50kwh per day is impressive, and that on 8540kw panels. On my solar calculator for Cape Town you are as close to maximum as can be. I assume your panels tilt and azimuth are near optimum.

I have a Conlog smart meter that will trip if I sent power back (it will kill me to import 100w to prevent this) so for now I have simply switched off the municipal supply until I get a token to allow a little feedback. Makes for a little monitoring on the SOC of the batteries.