superdiy

Thanks Chris, I've contacted them, waiting for a reply.

I'm busy with a rain water harvesting solution and I'm specifically looking for an affordable first flush filter option. Filtershop R850 + R135 shipping Takealot (Sold by FilterShop - Fulfilled by Takealot) R1195 + free shipping eco3 R912 + ??? shipping Sustainable R931 + Road Express Delivery R 150.00 or Courier Express Delivery R 170.00 or Road Economy Delivery R 215.00 - Note Economy delivery is the most expensive option... Does anyone know about an outlet with a more affordable option, perhaps in the Cape Town area? Alternative is to DIY it. Thanks

Yes, I doubt that they have the knowledge to repair it. Mustek is a computer peripherals supplier, which like Rectron, got onto the "load shedding" band wagon and started importing and distributing Voltronic inverters. Like in the case of PCs, nothing on a pc board is repaired if it becomes faulty, the whole board is simply replaced.

You type it every time you make a post. Or copy and paste it.

What is the reasoning behind running a normal (not online) UPS on the inverter (which is already a UPS)? Why not run the PCs etc directly from the Axpert?

What does the router do when you remove power from the UPS and put the power back? The reason why I'm asking, maybe the UPS "sees" the Axpert changeover as a "power failure" and responds to it by switching over to its own inverter and then soon thereafter switches back to the available mains input and maybe the Axpert's switch-over as well as the switch-over of the UPS is just too much for the router - maybe not even the power dip, but maybe a spike or two which the router does not like. That's why I'm suggesting to test the UPS only and then maybe to run the router from the Axpert directly instead of via the UPS as well, unless it is already connected that way - so please explain why you have the UPS then.

on APL (appliance mode) the transfer time is 20ms typical on UPS mode the transfer time is 10ms typical

Cap won't help on the AC side, maybe if you open up the TV and add one or more to the DC rails of the SMPS. Edit: Or even a bigger cap on the input stage (after rectification) of the SMPS. Edit 2: But if you increase the capacitance on the SMPS input stage, you might have to change the value of the fuse as well, because the inrush current will increase if the capacitance is increased.

Well, seeing that it is a Sony it is maybe not a bad idea. Ek sê altyd: "Ek sounie dit gekoop het nie"

What is the value of setting 03 on the inverters? According to the manual, on APL (appliance mode) the transfer time is 20ms typical and on UPS mode the transfer time is 10ms typical. If not already set to UPS mode, try changing that setting.

So exactly when are you going to unplug everything - the moment the lightning strikes?

Sorry to hear about your inverter. So AICC will soon support more hardware.

If I may answer in the mean time... The infini can be used without a battery bank.

Those pictures were taken soon after installation. They are standard mild steel balls which started to rust after the first shower. I then took them out one-by-one, using a magnet, and "properly" coated them with some gp grease and put them back in. There will be ways to get them out, their purpose is to deter and to slow down the removal process.

If I need to remove a panel there will be ways, e.g. cutting a slit with a 1mm blade on an angle grinder into the head of the capscrew etc. etc. The idea is to make it more difficult to remove, but if you want to there will always be a way to.

I'm pretty sure those are my words....

He is gone and so are all his AICC sections and posts.

I mainly use Sikaflex FC11 and that is around R120 for a 300ml tube IIRC. It is strange that it does not stick to the shower tray - is daar nie dalk van die vorige probeerslae se silicone ens. wat aan die shower tray vassit en dat dit dalk die rede is hoekom die Sikaflex nie wil kleef nie? Only other thing I can think of which might do the trick is ABE Laykold - it should stick to the shower tray and the surrounding area and also stays flexible - you might have to apply a few thick coats though.

Now that is a really excellent product (after the DTM discussion we had before). I've used Sikaflex for many things and you can really finish it beautifully with a cloth or finger dipped in turps - unlike cleaning up or trying to finish off silicone sealant. Edit: I you check my panel mounting pics above you might notice Sikaflex everywhere between the different components...

Use or spill?

3000W on 12V ignoring all losses equals 250A - that is just insane. I agree with TTT's rule of thumb for about 1000W max on 12V.

That is a very interesting circuit... I'm not to keen on it either because you have to take the positive lines on both sides of the fuse as well as the negative line to the circuit and it is polarity specific - if you want to monitor a fuse in a negative line, you'll have to use a NPN transistor and basically invert the circuit. Below are easier circuits for monitoring fuses in AC and DC circuits.

When I still had multiple battery strings I did something similar for each battery string fuse, but included a bridge rectifier to monitor current flow in both directions in case a battery string fuse failed. Rectifier is not required for PV fuses though.

Just check the thickness of the metal, there are a few options and the thinnest (I think 1mm) is very flimsy.

As I was reading this I could "see" the collapsing bridge and the melting fuse in slow motion. It was like reading a good book.