Magetsi

i got my solar in July  5kw Battery and 2.7Kw Panels and noticed the following,
Before solar my daily usage averaged 15-17Kw.  Heater and Cooker are the heaviest hogs starting at 530PM -through to 1159pm
With Solar and my system  set to prioritise load. I get 7kw during the day and 8-11kw at night
Overal change to bill was zero, before solar Eskom Bill R1000, Now Eskom Bill R1000. No change but  I assume i would have paid more without solar.
I then changed my system such that my system now prioritises home load, so far it looks good. over the last 30 Days, i am averaging 3-4Kw per day and 11-13 kw battery and solar. but then its summer as well. More sun more power. 10Kw Battery is the best. Thats a future wish for me.
 

Thank you. This turned out to be my trouble too. After using port splitter the comms started. However the stats seems off
 

All Green is not used on my config. it appears not that much relevant. Unless you have the rs385 which requires the ground.

I did not want to cut the battery cable or change anything on the cable for the battery or risk anything at all, hence i went with a splitter which has the sockets. I therefore never bothered validating which pins are for the battery. But based on what i have gathered from PICs found on this forum yes 4 and 5 are the pins.
 

I made mine. I  Bought one which I am expecting today. I will test the new one and let you know. The one iam expecting, I bought from pishop online

Now you can put back yellow cable and start hunting for a RJ45 splitter. Yes you should be able to use B. Just a note on the splitters. They don't come equal. Some splitters don't have all pins connected.

Your image is exactly like mine. That means the middle port bms485/can is what you must use. On the cable part yes using own crimping can be a nightmare. Get a factory made working cable and cut it , then determine which wires are on pin 1 and 2.

Donovan, you highlighted that one inverter is working and the other is not. This means that working esp device is proven, you can remove it from the working inverter and use it to test your second inverter until you get a working configuration.  You can start by removing it from the working inverter and plugging in to the nonworking now and check if you still get data. If you do get data then it means your other esp is not working due to config or wiring issues.  If it does not work first time, then you would need to change the IDs in the config file as suggested until you get a working config. It helps to attach the config files well. Sometime we make silly typos that we cannot find on our own but extra set of eyes comes in handy. That applies to to providing images of your devices as well.
unknown status simply means no comms from inverter.

hi
The below suggests that you have set id to 1 in both files. Can you either update your yaml to id to 2
modbus_controller:
  - id: sunsynk
    address: 0x02
    modbus_id: sunsynk_modbus
    setup_priority: -10
    update_interval: "300s"
    command_throttle: "50ms"
 
I could be wrong, I only have 1 device.

been struggling on this as well. Having exactly the same errors. I started off trying to get this working on tasmota. On Friday I thought i had made a breakthrough when i started getting responses on Tasmota firmware.  When i queried this on Tasmota forums, it turned out that the responses were seemingly garbage. I then uploaded esphome with Slipx yaml file. On this i am getting CRC errors. I removed the R7 resistor as suggested. But that has had no positive changes seen so far.

To me it sounds as if your inverter is not properly earthed, or that multiple earths are used.  You should only have one earth reference, meaning the inverter should use your DB-panel earth.  If your inverter is far removed (maybe in a garage) some people might rather slam  another earth spike into the ground.  There is no guarantee  that one spike might give you a good earth and secondly, it can differ due to ground currents.  I mean physically leakage currents in earth, ground, soil the stuff the Yanks refer to as "dirt".  LOL.    10 or 11V is more than enough for those LEDs to see enough forward current that they turn on dimly.

BTW, with electric fences, it is required to ground the fence energizer using THREE ground pegs, each one a distance of one meter minimum from each other.

I am not an electrician, but a retired electronic engineer.  There seem to be a lot of regulations that I am too stupid to understand or stupid regulations.....  you decide.  For instance, this bull of not combining 230VAC and LV DC in the same conduit.  That is SENSELESS.  But I guess I shouldn't complain.  If you look at US or UK wiring codes, they are 10x more strict.

It is interesting that in Germany, people do NOT need an electrical COC when selling/buying a house.  A COC is only required if/when modifications have been done to the electric system.

The world is turning mad with it's green agenda which is FAKE and I don't buy into it.  Not even solar panels are truely green, due to the exotic input materials and the finite lifetime.  However, now that we are all forced to jump onto this bandwagon, we should COMPLETELY re-write the rule books.  I always smile silently at the people (especially on this forum) that have these mega-installations.  Maybe the owners just have completely non-understanding wives....  that want, no, demand, that EVERYTHING works at the same time.  She wants to boil the kettle, run the washing machine, the micro and the dish-washer all at the same time.

There is no difference between an LCD and a LED TV.  They are both LCD.  But the old model uses CFL backlighting while the LED uses LED backlighting.  LED Backlighting consumes about 30% of what CFL does.  My point is this,  should you not rather throw out your 70W LCD TV and replace it with a similar sized LED TV for R 3000.  A 32-inch LED TV will run at under 20W.  And while you are at it, buy a TV that runs from a 19V laptop-type power supply.  Because then you can buy a R100 Boost converter and feed your TV straight from a 12V battery.  

The TV is just an example.  My point is, people are prepared to spend 150K+ on massive battery banks.  Why not spend only 100K on batteries and use 50K to replace old, inefficient technology.

I think future homes should use AC/DC hybrid wiring systems.  I HATE running an inverter 24/7.  The damn fan noise, the power wastage and the fact that HV AC is detrimental to human health.  OH, now I have blown it.  What a nut-case.  Who is he?  HaHa.  Well, go google the two medical conditions known as MCS (Multi-Chemical Sensitives) and EHS (Electro Hyper Sensitivity).  These two conditions often go together.  Read the story of Canadian song-writer Kim Palmer.  Then maybe, you will understand.

My opinion is that most things should run on LV DC.   12V is not ideal.  24V would be better.  AC distribution should NOT be always on.  Instead, it should be limited to things like vacuum cleaners, irons, power tools, etc. on a demand ONLY supply.  What I mean is, the inverter should be in sleep mode and only power up when a load wants power.  This would be simple to implement.  That's what the battery-backed up LED lights do, just in reverse order.  In fact, you get modules that power down a mains circuit and re-trigger on demand, used by the very people suffering from EHS...

most will apply now to beat the deadline. But I suppose some will be caught. But it never cease to amaze me that the City is unncessarily making it difficult to help ease eskom challenges on its residence. On one hand they making it easy  and on the other they make it harder.

Well spotted. I latched on to a previous response that made that assumption. around 150k is the average for quotes on Sunsynkand Livoltek based solutions from most companies I recieved.

i would say R150k for Growatt is excessive. I have been hunting since May and have settled for a fully installed Sunsynk with one of the reputable companies for about R130k. Most of the quotes for Sunsynk 5kw are between R130k and R170k fully installed. The lowest i got from less reputable was R107k.  Growatt 5kw fully installed is significantly cheaper 75k-95k.

done

done

Should be very worried if he/she had bought from Segen. They seem to make up their own rules when it comes to warranty 

Was a little skeptical as I called them for a quote in solar panels and the sent me a quote within minutes... this is where we have come to in this country... we get worried when we receive good service🤣

I was about to post and recommend staying away from this company until you or someone defended it. Even then scammers are everywhere trying their best to disguise. Iam one of those who will spend time to disprove a company that is looks dodgy. Yes, today question everything, there are more scammers out there waiting for our hard earned cash.

thank you for that. i was about to sacrifice a good inverter for a lesser one.

Here is my experience and lessons learnt through my journey thus far.
I will say first where I want to end up as an end goal, and then the route I took, thus far in getting there.
End goal:
1. 6000w solar solution (Bar off course gloomy days), but having on a reasonable day be able to draw 3000w from solar.
2. Inverter that can match at least 4kw drawn at any given time, but be able to go lightly higher when required, but not more than 6kw.
3. Batteries that can sustain my house for at least two days without any grid or solar coming in.
 
Journey:
Step 1 was just to cover me for loadshedding, so I got 100ah 48V system, inverter, 8kva 6000W, and gel batteries, these did what I initially wanted, but the gel was a bad call, unfortunately, budget didnt allow for LSP straight off the bat, so I was okay with that.
Next was Solar, but once again budget was an issue and here my biggest lesson, I went with lesser panels, full power, rather than better panels half power, with expansion later. If I could do it over again I would have gotten top notch panels with output only 3kw rather than lesser panels 5kw, cause now the panels are absolutely crap. With my initial budget I could have easily gotten 5 panels of the best money could buy, water under the bridge now. Lesson learnt, I wanted it all and got nothing. So rather look at your budget and get the proper stuff even if it means less of it, for now, you can add later and never feel sorry. Also going with the proper stuff means you will find it later in order to expand.
I recently swopped the gel out for 5kw LSP, great change, fortunately the gel initiatially wasnt that expensive, 6k wasted but not totally and I will explain in a bit.
Next step on the right path:
1. Get another battery, pushing the backup up to 10kw - Half way
2. Swop out the panels for the right ones - Following the above approach - This time doing it right, if I dont have enough for 10 panels dont get 10, get 8, and add two more later, but for heaven sake dont get 10 lesser brand, this donkey wont stump its toe again
3. Add two more batteries and add panels if #2 above wasnt the full requirement met
4. Done
In Rand this is where I am at:
1. Inverter and original Gel battery solution - R17k
2. Solar panels - R 25k
3. New LSP - R 24k
4. Installations etc - R 5k
 
What is left:
1. New Solar - R45k
2. Added Batteries - R 72k
 
Ending up with 6000w Solar, 8kva 6000W inverter, and 21kw battery backup
Total cost for final solution:
12k + 96k + 45k + 5k = 158k
 
Now what I am doing with my current solar and gel batteries?
I have an external DB that feeds the outside of my house, Gates, Swimming pool and external lights. Max draw 800w, with pump running. Im going to get a small 1000w inverter and add this 1kw inverter to it. It already has the AC feed from internal DB, so this will feed into the new inverter, on that I will mount the old solar to my car port roof and then use my old gels as the battery backup (all these will do is keep the gates active and outside lights in time of loadshedding, well lights (10w) and the gates never work during the night anyway, so this way at least I utilize the old "mistakes", and also take some load away from my internal solution.
The other option is to maybe just give it to the church or such, as a good deed.
In a nutshell:
Dont go with less than what your end goal is, and if you dont have the funds, rather wait, but dont go with less and be sorry later.