Gandalf

The easiest way to test if you can cope without Eksdom is to turn off the main feed to your house, either at the kiosk outside or on your main DB. If you don’t have to turn it on again for a year, you know you are fine.

The solar array is producing 50% of its capacity, the battery is 2.3kw towards the load. There is defenitely something wrong on your solar array.

https://cs.jinkosolar.com/app/index.html#/customer-complaint/authenticity
Put your panels serial numbers through this verification just to be sure

You have the 4 x Jinko panels connected 4S1P to Mppt 1? Yes. To take the guesswork out of the equation disconnect the 4 panels from the inverter and the string. At midday in full sun measure with a dmm the open curcuit voltage of each panel and dot it down. Compare to the Voc on rating sticker. Now by using a DC isolator short the leads of each panel and again dot the readings down and compare to rating sticker. Do the current test with a DC clamp meter most dmm has a max current rating of 10A. The current produced at ISC will tell you the capable wattage. Multiply the ISC (measured) with the Vmp on rating sticker that would be the maximum power the panel can produce. Your inverter will clip at 13A. I have found quite a few faulty panels(diffrent OEM) that limits the current on a string.

I was on site this Saturday and did a test. It was around 13:30 and the battery was at 81% SOC. I turned on a few items getting the load up to 5.1Kw. The solar maxed out at 1.3Kw (325W from each 615W panel). I checked the crimping of the MC4's and also checked if the DC breaker connections were tight. I tried different battery settings and user settings, but the solar production stayed the same.
Looking at your previous post stating the NOCT output of this panel, factoring in the temperature of the panels at midday as well as losses over 30M of 6mm PV cable, maybe this is correct...

Jinko panels (genuine ones) are tier 1 and perform just as well as any other brand.
We have the Jinko 615w producing full 615w power without any issues on other sites.

I would verify the authenticity panels with Jinko directly, they should have a serial number verification process to check the panels are genuine.
Once that's confirmed, it's probably the inverter that's causing the limit due to the settings / setup.
You should get near the full power rating of the panels on a good day, not 50%. Bifacial rating would be over and above the 615w, so that doesn't change anything. Noct as per specsheet is normal. On a bright summers day, production will be more than that.

This is for my one panel on the Victron charge controller. But I do get the full wattage of the panel. I have seen over 580W a few times despite my SW 10 degree orientation. And as expected, because it is bifacial, if it had irradiance at the back, it would be 670W. Mine doesnt have a NOCT rating though. So technically you should still be seeing the 615W. The NOCT rating might not matter as much if this panel of mine and the 650W panels on my inverter are almost always hitting their full power. My 650W are also bifacial and they are Fivestar panels.

I found the datasheet for those panels and it doesnt look good. The STC value is 615W. But the NOCT value is only 463W for those panels. So in real world conditions you would only be seeing about 1850W. I might be mistaken but it is very rare for panels to hit the STC value. NOCT is at 20 degrees with 1m/s wind and 800W/m2 irradiance. In our current climate in SA those panels would be way over the 20 degrees so the power output would be further reduced.
I would check based on the mounting angle at what time the panels are expected to produce max power relative to the sun angle. Then if the skies are clear, run a load higher than 3kW and see what you pull from the panels.

Sofar HYD 6K-EP inverter with CAN communication established. I suspect there may be clipping.
Perhaps I should try remove communication and program the charge settings manually.

Sofar HYD 6K-EP inverter with CAN communication established. I suspect there may be clipping.
Perhaps I should try remove communication and program the charge settings manually.

Looking forward to see your findings. I have contemplated a similar solution, but never got around to try it.
Subscribed!

Best solution is to keep your charge voltage below 53v. But in my opinion, just stay away from Pylontechs, upgrade now. There is much better batteries out there and this is just my honest opinion after owning Pylontechs for five years. I wish I had known better back then

Short answer is Yes.

Short answer is Yes.

Thank you for the feedback. Now to see if they will become available for smaller scale purchasing.

I am a big believer in adding more solar panels to my existing system rather than dedicating panels only to a geyser.
My reasoning is that the extra power generated when added to my existing system, can be used for anything I need. If you use panels purely for heating water, there may be many hours every day when those panels sit idle.
My advice is to get a cheap charge controller and use those extra panels to charge your batteries. Then have the two geysers running on timers so that one comes on between 9 and 11, the other one between 12 and 3 (or whatever times suit you best). The extra power generated when the geysers are off can be used to keep the batteries topped up.

I have installed 3 of these Lemoen batteries so far and I am happy with them. No complaints from any of the customers. They are a good choice for entry level systems. 

I would say the easiest way to add the extra panels without interfering with the current setup is have a separate MPPT like a Victron 150/100 just for those 6 East facing panels.

@Felicity-Angie I think it is necessary to support the members.

My friend, I hope you solve the problem. I know it's become a challenge.
I don't know why Felicity doesn't pay enough attention to pairing its inverters with batteries of different brands.

I just tried these right now, no communication.
I also tried 1001 without success.
I will find out from Felicity if there will be a 1308 firmware. 😁

Thanks @kafaa group I will make a new cable and try this tomorrow.

Thanks for the note.
I'll try to get the Felicity inverter connected with different brands of batteries whenever I can, for everyone's benefit.

@Gandalf