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30/80% SoC & Battery settings


abd7

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Hi all,

Been reading quite a bit on here regarding Shoto SDA10 48100 5.12kwh batteries.

We've had an installer do Kodak Max 7.2Kw inverters with these Shoto batteries.

Unfortunately I learnt later that these dont communicate at all. Would have gone the sunsynk + hubble/pylontech route had I known this!

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So now we are trying to get the system communicating to some extent.

For that reason we purchased the solar assistant system.

Have the shoto manual , its a newer design which slightly different terminals (vertically orientated in a line as shown in the manual), CAN comms  and RS485 (no rs232).

Dip switches are also different compared to previous threads which I had seen (for 4 batteries, master has 5&6 up!) . All in the manual which you can see here

With the dip switches correct, and the cascading batteries connected to master RS485B to the battery 2  RS484A, and alternating so on, with the CAN port DISCONNECTED, then ONLY did we get some 'info' being transferred to the raspberry pi. Unfortunately, it says "invalid data recieved". The interesting part is that its at least transferring data now.

SO guys with Shoto batteries trying to get comms, make sure your dip switches are exactly as stated in your specific batteries manual. They seem to be changing things between revisions of the design. And hence confusing people. Hope this helps some of you with Shoto SDA10 batteries.

Pierre has been very helpful in trying to rectify the situation, but for now it seems that the data is in a new format and hence cannot be read.

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Interestingly the RS485 pins listed in the manual are different from other batteries and previous shoto designs, says pin 8 is RS485B.

However, we had used the old cable with Pin 8 as ground, which is providing some data (albeit invalid). According to Pierre this means the manual is wrong. Since if the ground was as per the manual then it would not have worked at all.

THen in 4.2.2. of the manual they contradict themselves by showing pin 8 being the ground. Strange indeed.

 

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Now to the main reason why I'm posting here,

Please see the battery specs below. They no longer specify 15s or 16s so I dont actually know what this battery is. Perhaps they only have one model now. Especially since previous manuals had separated the two. THis manual has only one type. 

 Capture.thumb.JPG.31d31a82c224bf57a6e97d87fe2eba2c.JPG

 

My battery settings on the inverter (USER option selected due to no comms):

Capture2.thumb.JPG.013ae03da6130f817e8ba5c6e0ecb3d2.JPG

 

 

We currently are using emulated BMS to try to maximise benefit from the system, till solar assistant gets the data processing sorted. 

1. What should the 30% and 80% SoC be set to based on the above manual?

2. Do these battery settings look optimised? Especially the 'to grid' and 'back to battery' voltages.

Although I suppose solar assistant will handle this now.

 

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4 hours ago, Hansa said:

I learnt later that these dont communicate at all.

I haven't looked at the Max removable display firmware, but in the King/VM III removable display firmware, there is a battery type SH for SHoto (and also type BAK). These two are disabled at present, but there is code that responds to those battery types.

So my guess is that either these are still in development, or they were planned, found too hard, and have been disabled (there is code to skip over those options) rather than deleted in case they get around to finishing it.

So it's possible that Voltronic will come out with Shoto support at some point in the future.

Of course, that doesn't help you now 🙄. But perhaps keep it in mind for the future.

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7 hours ago, 87 Dream said:

Hi Hansa,

I don't know Shoto Batteries but I do know a 16s config when I see it & can without a doubt tell you that you are dealing with a 16s config.

51.2V is the advertised 16S config as this measures 51.2V ÷16 = 3.2V which is the nominal voltage range for LiFePO4 cells.

In the 15s config like many batteries they are configured for 3.2V nominal & advertised as 48V batteries exclusively & so 48÷15 = 3.2V nominal voltage of the cell. (Pylontech types)

The charge format also has clues as to the 16s arrangement 54V -56.4V.

So you always divide the bulk or even the float by 16 cells to get individual cell voltage provided the cells are top balanced. 

So on your settings bulk at 56.4V ÷ 16 = 3.525V per cell which is the absorption voltage.

So for lithium iron phosphate cells like in anything Solar stay away from the edge of the envelope. So the absolute min voltage is 2.4V & the high is 3.65V per cell. The longer time you spend at these values the more degradation or damaged can be imposed on each cell. 

To lastly answer your question & get to the Crux of the matter. What is the best Charge voltage settings? The one that best suites your desire to make your cells last the longest. Remember take whatever you want to set & ÷ that numbed by 16s in your case. That value is what will make you sleep better at night.

87

 

 

 

Your message is highly appreciated, and has clarified many aspects for me.

Thank you for the detailed response and your time. 

We would want a good balance between battery longevity and maximising benefit, as everyone else. 

Hence it seems prudent to use the 45v to 56.4v values as suggested in the charge /discharge voltages of the manual, rather than anywhere near to 2.4V & 3.65V per cell. 

 

I'm trying to work out 30% and 80% SoC for input into solar assistant emulated BMS for now. 

Would it be these 45 and 56.4 values that I work within? 

According to my calculations this would be 48.42v and 54.12v. My concern is that 54v is the float charge so is that suitable to apply for 80% SoC...

Edited by Hansa
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52 minutes ago, Hansa said:

Just to confirm, if the batteries are in parallel the victron shunt would also work? 

If we don't get things sorted here after a few months, may end up going that route. Thanks for the suggestion

PS it's a 3 phase system, with 3 inverters. And 4 batteries in parallel 

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  • 2 months later...

Hi Hansa, did you ever manage to resolve the comms issue with the shoto batteries and solar assistant. I recently got the solar assistant working with my deye inverter. it communicates great with the inverter but when I want to connect to the batteries it says "invalid data received" do you maybe have any suggestions

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  • 7 months later...

I have a shoto 15s battery and from what i have seen googling to get more info 

The 15s model has a nominal voltage of 48v and the 16s model has a nominal voltage of 51.2v

And naturally the capacity is also different 

Since they both use 100ah cells 

The 15s is a 4.8kw 

And the 16s is a 5.12kw

My specific model the 15s weighs 45kg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 2021/09/09 at 8:31 PM, Hansa said:

However, we had used the old cable with Pin 8 as ground, which is providing some data

Hi, when you got this cable to transfer some data, what were the pins for RS485A & B? I have exactly the same battery with the same manual that says pins 1&2 and 7&8 (which are obviously wrong if pin8 was ground) and have been struggling to set up any comms and I'm not sure if it's my USB to RS485 converter or the pin setup or the software I'm using... thanks.

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The actual manual showed things wired slightly differently (1st image) , but contradicted itself further on in the second pic (shows pin 1,2, 8 connected, 8 must be ground then. 

 

 

image (1).png

image (2).png

Edited by Hansa
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2 minutes ago, Hansa said:

I used pierre (solar assistants) cable, which is wired as per this image

Thanks very much. I tried pins 1&2, which should have worked although I don't have a gnd on the usb. It could also be the windows drivers for the usb.

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1 minute ago, Hansa said:

but contradicted itself further on in the second pic

I was also scratching my head when I saw that pic, but I just went with 1&2 as they were used there... maybe I do need a gnd on the usb after all.

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1 minute ago, jumper said:

Thanks very much. I tried pins 1&2, which should have worked although I don't have a gnd on the usb. It could also be the windows drivers for the usb.

Perhaps it's your dip switches, check that they are 100% as per the manual based on how many batteries you have

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2 minutes ago, jumper said:

I was also scratching my head when I saw that pic, but I just went with 1&2 as they were used there... maybe I do need a gnd on the usb after all.

Good luck. Very finicky with comms 

Edited by Hansa
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Just now, Hansa said:

Perhaps it's your dip switches

I only have 1 battery, so that shouldn't make a difference for me, although I have read that with other batteries people have had to set the dip switches as if there was a second for comms to work, so I tried dip 1 up, but after reading your first post earlier I realise that it's dip 5 up for 2 batteries so I will also give that a try.

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On 2021/12/06 at 9:26 PM, schalkvstaden said:

Hi Hansa, did you ever manage to resolve the comms issue with the shoto batteries and solar assistant. I recently got the solar assistant working with my deye inverter. it communicates great with the inverter but when I want to connect to the batteries it says "invalid data received" do you maybe have any suggestions

Try the latest solar assistant software update, it should have some updates for shoto batteries to process the data its recieving. Let us know if you get it to work, I no longer have shoto batteries so cannot provide feed back regarding this. 

 

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2 minutes ago, Hansa said:

Good luck. Very finicky with comms 

Thanks it's not been as easy as I'd imagined. Just a question: can you access the battery when it is disconnected and in standby (green light blinking) or does it have to be connected and charging or discharging with the 4 leds showing soc?

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3 minutes ago, jumper said:

I only have 1 battery, so that shouldn't make a difference for me, although I have read that with other batteries people have had to set the dip switches as if there was a second for comms to work, so I tried dip 1 up, but after reading your first post earlier I realise that it's dip 5 up for 2 batteries so I will also give that a try.

With one battery, manual says all dips down. 

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Just now, jumper said:

Thanks it's not been as easy as I'd imagined. Just a question: can you access the battery when it is disconnected and in standby (green light blinking) or does it have to be connected and charging or discharging with the 4 leds showing soc?

No idea unfortunately 

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