jumper

I don't hink you need to buy BMS software, it is usually free, you just need to know the exact BMS.
For Shoto a lot of them use the seplos BMS which you can find software for here: https://www.seplos.com/download.html?group_id=6318
For the others you may be able to use PBMSTools.

Although not as common, they do exist. Here is one with 1500W mppt: https://solarequipment.co.za/product/kodak-3kw-24v-solar-off-grid-plus-inverter-with-ups/
I only point this out because I have a 3kw axpert (not Kodak brand though) which only takes 600W PV and I've seen Synapse branded models that take 1000W PV... I just like to be absolutely sure as going with incorrect pv specs can be very unforgiving.

Just some advice on boreholes and non-return valves... I learned the hard way which wasted months of my time and about R10k on an unnecessary replacement pump and motor.
Your borehole pump will have a non-return valve built in, but you should add another external non-return valve within 7m of the pump (mine is directly on top of the pump) as the internal valve will not handle the pressure of 70m of water hammer when the motor stops and will probably fail over time. My water level is at 120m with a 1.1kw motor and a non-return at the surface and it took 2 months for my pump to fail and no longer start under pressure due to high current draw.
After getting a lot of bs advice that my panels were wrong, my solar vsd probably needed replacing, then a new motor and then a new pump, I fixed it by adding a non-return valve above the pump and voila, all works perfectly again with original pump and motor.
You should also have a non-return valve on approx every 50m of pipe to reduce water hammer damaging your pump and connections etc. I think it's good practice to make everything last longer.
Welcome to the world of boreholes and pumps, it is much like the solar world with lots of cowboys and plenty of sales people who don't know what they are talking about.

All done & dusted, we can finally return the site to the owners & it was hard work of 2 weeks away from our base in Gauteng. Still some load phase balancing that is ongoing for the electrical team on site. However, we have another 100kW ATESS system providing power for a customer & I have no doubt it will deliver & serve them well!!

Were all batteries at 100% SOC when firs connected up?
Did you update the BMS to inverter cable as it changed?
Are the US3000C on firmware version 1.7 or above?
This is from Segen Solar:

Source: https://portal.segensolar.de/reseller/docs/US3000C and US3000 Mixture Installation.pdf
 
You could let them charge until the US3000 have reached 100% and then disconnect them and charge the US3000C to 100% and then reconnect them all to see if that balances them again.
 

Morning all, found out the main board had blown causing the issue. Had it repaired, affordably and the issue has been resolved. For the Luxpower units, you can ask the online team to check and do a firmware upgrade....they can also check the board parameters and status 

It looks like you PV voltages have dropped massively. I would think this could be due to faulty panels in series strings or a damaged mppt.

Vital to being able to keep within the inverter output limits (and avoid importing expensive grid power unnecessarily) is having the means to display the relevant information in an immediate and accessible way.
That's what I told my wife, anyway.  Really, I'd just scored a bunch of old RC servos on ebay for £5 and I wanted to play with them. 😉

 
In context:

 
It uses 6 servos, a Wemos d1 mini clone and a tri-colour LED.  Dial faces are 3D printed, with a filament change from white to black (which turned out much better than I imagined, TBH).
The servos only had around 90° of sweep angle, so I 3D printed some little holder/gearbox things to get over 180° and provide a shaft for the needle to go on, plus some 'steampunk' needles.


 
All run buy the obligatory D1 mini and held together using the very latest in 'twist and tape' technology.

 
Yee-haw! 🤠
It gets fed the data from 'node-red' running on a Victron CerboGX via UDP packets over WiFi, updating as often as the data changes (approx 3 second intervals).  The LED changes colour according to state, so 'All OK' is green, 'You're getting very close to/exceeding the inverter output limit, so if you don't want to pay for grid, don't turn anything else on' is red, then blue for 'dumping power into the hot water tank'.
It's by no means silent in operation.  I originally made a single-servo version for just PV generation and coded it so that the meter movements were gradual (a kind of PID to get from one value to the next), but apparently it 'sounded like we have cockroaches' when it made it's ticky-scratchy transitions between values, so the big version just jumps between values with a 'zzziiiiiup!' sound.
It's actually quite reassuring to have an audible indication when the sun comes out for 5 seconds, or it starts charging at night.
I'd also put a little radar sensor in there, with the aim of having it detect when there was nobody around, so it could stop displaying to save power/noise.  Unfortunately, that meant that every time you entered the room, all 6 needles would suddenly move at the same time, making you jump out of your skin and spill your horlicks, so we just leave it 'on' all the time now.
There's also a basic web UI, so you can see the same data on your phone or whatever, plus it's useful for troubleshooting:

 
I had fun and learned loads making it - and now it's become a family game to try to cook dinner without making the red light come on. 🙂
 
Libraries used are 'ESPUI' and 'servo', plus 'arduinoOTA'.  Code, FreeCad file for the gearbox & stl file for the arrow-head needle are all in the attached zip.
Power_meters_v2..zip

I think you will have more luck with this as I have only seen pbmstools work with rs232, I've not seen it run over rs485.

I guess Short Circuit Protection (different to over current protection) has been activated on the BMS. Normally this should reset itself after about 1min or if charge current is detected, unless there is a permanent short circuit in the battery circuit (either the BMS or across the inverter battery terminals)... maybe the precharge circuit has been damaged if your BMS has one.
Looking at my BMS manual (not Hoselect, but they are all quite similar) the SCP can also be activated if Over Current Protection has been triggered too many times. Do you have an OCP count? Here's an excerpt from my manual in case it helps:

It seems the only way to deactivate it would be to reconnect it to a charger, but as you say it goes into protection as soon as you close the breaker. You may be able to get it started by precharging the circuit before closing the breaker, but I hesitate to give specifics because I'm not a sparky and I don't have personal experience with this. There are quite a few topics where people had to precharge before connecting a battery, otherwise maybe someone else with more experience can chime in.
You may need to first check that there is no short across the battery terminals of the inverter, but be very careful, make sure everything is disconnected and turned off for quite a while before touching anything as the inverter will hold charge in its internals which can be very dangerous, get a professional to check it out if you don't have experience.
That's all the ideas I have.

I like the water analogy... the inverter will increase the voltage across the DC bus, raising it higher than the battery voltage which causes the electrons to flow 'downhill' to the battery. Voltage can be seen as pressure and higher voltage means higher pressure (uphill) and electrons will always flow from higher pressure to lower pressure, just like water. Inversely, when there is a load on the inverter the voltage of the DC bus will drop lower than the battery, figuratively placing it downhill so the electrons will flow from the battery to the inverter. Current can then be seen as the rate of flow of the water (electrons), the higher the pressure difference the higher the flow rate (current). This obviously gets a bit more complicated when doing blending with grid, battery and PV, but the principle is the same, it is all managed by voltage differences.... at least that's my layman's understanding of how inverters work.

I like the water analogy... the inverter will increase the voltage across the DC bus, raising it higher than the battery voltage which causes the electrons to flow 'downhill' to the battery. Voltage can be seen as pressure and higher voltage means higher pressure (uphill) and electrons will always flow from higher pressure to lower pressure, just like water. Inversely, when there is a load on the inverter the voltage of the DC bus will drop lower than the battery, figuratively placing it downhill so the electrons will flow from the battery to the inverter. Current can then be seen as the rate of flow of the water (electrons), the higher the pressure difference the higher the flow rate (current). This obviously gets a bit more complicated when doing blending with grid, battery and PV, but the principle is the same, it is all managed by voltage differences.... at least that's my layman's understanding of how inverters work.

So first thing I did was check the filters. Not much debris. Second thing I removed the shower head and it starting working. Decided to remove the filter in the shower head and it still works after putting it back on. Also made some adjustments to the dials. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

The best way I've found to set my gas geysers is to turn on the tap with least pressure and then use the water flow knob on the geyser and turn it down slowly until the geyser ignites, then leave it and use the flame knob to set the temp of the water.
Also check your filter in your kitchen tap if it has one. That could be why it used to work but doesn't anymore. The geyser might also have a little filter sieve that needs to be cleaned.

Finally, after 8 months I have my panels up. And of course, just as I was finishing the connections it started raining.  And yes, it took me 8 months to build the rack - I work slowly😁

For pylontech you need Batteryview... try this:
 

@Coulomb is correct, error 61 is BMS comms error and you will only get it if you are on PYL, Lib or Lic settings, you won't get it when set to USE battery type and set the voltages. That way you can at least know if it is the BMS comms causing the issue or not.
It might be that the new comms board doesn't give error 61 because it connects to the BMS, but there might be an error in the protocol implementation when the battery reaches 100% causing your issue.

There definitely seems to be something strange going on with the BMS comms... the inverter is trying to push charge into the batteries even though they are both at 100% SOC. If comms was working, one would expect the inverter to go to float and not keep trying to charge. Have you tried removing the comms cables and running the batteries in USEr mode on the inverter? If that alleviates the problem then you know it is definitely a communication issue.

It's a pleasure. I made money out of it & you helped, so I don't see why you shouldn't share in the spoils 😀.
Yes success. The buck was damaged. Replaced. Sorted. Thank you. 😉

When I had a blown fuse between the inverter and the battery the Sunsynk was reporting the battery voltage as being equal to the charge voltage (I do not use BMS comms), obviously no current was flowing.
In the period leading up to the fuse giving up the ghost, there were a few clues, like sudden changes in SOC, sudden changes  to charge voltage and current to name a few. These symptoms started more than a month before the fuse actually decided it had enough.

There is a pipe on the top of the air filter assembly and the tappet cover(normally stamped OHV) entering on the side. It just pushes in on both sides.

Did the Inverter shut down? If so, what error code is shown on the Inverter itself?
The app error codes unfortunately are meaningless.
Has the Inverter been restarted to see if the error comes up again?
Is this a new installation or is this a new error after having used it for a while?
What Battery Type has been used in Program code 05?
If User mode, what are the voltage settings? 
Is the Li comms link up and running if you are using Li Protocol?
 

Regarding the Pylontech firmware...  First up, thanks for this thread.  It is without doubt the most useful resource on the internet relating to the issues discussed.
So... I had the issue with the Victron GX + <v1.7 f/w on a couple of my US3000Cs - the misreporting of a voltage spike in one cell causing the Victron GX to panic and shut that battery down.
I emailed Pylontech with a plot of the Vhigh readings (it would shoot to 4.1v for one reading, then back down again).  They responded very promptly (on a Sunday night, too) with a link to download a zip containing 'BatteryView 3.0.33' and a firmware zip file named 'USC_st2.8+NT2.2.zip', contained two binaries named 'US_E2_V2.2_Crc.bin' and 'US_C_V2.8_Crc.bin'.  Good so far.
Then the real fun started...
Couldn't get 'BatteryView' to connect, despite no problems accessing the serial terminal and getting appropriate responses from the batteries.
Tried 'Batteryview' under wine/mono in Linux Mint 21, build a Windows 10 VM, fully updated it, installed Win 10 natively, updated that, .NET 4.8.1, tried every combination of v 3.0.28 through 3.0.33, 3 different USB/RS232 interfaces...  Wouldn't connect, but terminal was fine.
Eventually did a native install of Win 11, same deal... Updated that (which took the best part of a day on a 40Mb/s fibre line) and finally, finally 'BatteryView' connected.  Downloaded all the 'history' and 'event' data, went to update the firmware on the first battery (according to the instructions provided by Pylontech, using the zip file) and...   it threw an 'unknown exception' error and just quit. 😭
OK.
Took a step back, sat down with a cup of tea and thought 'lets have a look at this firmware zip file'.  The one that 'thou shalt not unzip, least ye bricketh the unit'.  Re-read this thread, then thought that if I can work out which of the two bin files, maybe try that?  I mean, who's gonna know, right?
And lo, it came to pass that I could not unzippeth.  Because the %&*$!£ zip-within-the-zip was corrupt.  Re-downloaded from the source (wetransfer.com), same.
Came back here and grabbed the v1.8 zip, all 7 units are now updated fine. 🥳
 
So basically, a massive 'Thank You' to Youda and all who have contributed to this thread.  I hope the above contribution to it might prove useful to someone else facing similar issues.
Now I can hopefully sleep easy, or at least sleep without VRM waking me up with an email at 3.23am to inform me in panicked, breathless tones of some expensive-sounding 'internal failure' or 'cell imbalance' in battery 7 that means you have to get up and shuffle downstairs to silence the beep-of-doom and check that nothing's actually on fire. 🙂

Thank you, I had the wrong profile selected. It is working now ass it should

If you pull the cable out and the inverter doesn't complain then you are probably set to User battery mode which will run on volts. For BMS comms to work you need to change to PYL or LIB or LIC and have comms on RS485 to the battery. It is likely that it won't communicate, the axperts are a bit picky with batteries.
This is also why the inverter has a different soc level to the battery, it is guessing based on your charging and cutoff voltages... the battery is correct.