PowerUser

They provided you with information not relevant to the SunSynk bonding as well. That snippet refers to installations where the inverter is at a remote location and not by the point of entry.

That SANS snippet which you posted is not relevant to what is discussed in this thread. The paragraph refers to installations where the inverter is at a remote location and not by the point of entry. You have taken something completely out of it's context. So PLEASE show us, according to which SANS standard, inverters which have a relay internally doing the bond are illegal? 🤔

Yes... according to Facebook 🤣

What’s the panels orientation and tilt angle?

it took them 20 days and I had to make 3 phone call to their support to get my upgrade done. The new system with the service desk doesn’t seem to work. Before the updates always happened within hours. You need to call and push them. Otherwise nothing happens for now.

Looks like they have 14 different models. They show the first 7 on the first row and continue from the 8th to the 14th model on the second row. If you notice, the specs gradually increase. They just represented the data like that to make the specs sheet more compact.

Did some googling and these articles suggest that a Heat Pump is a viable aircon solution: https://www.ahi-carriersa.co.za/advantages-of-a-heat-pump-air-con/ https://www.daikin-ce.com/en_us/daikin-blog/can-heat-pumps-cool.html https://www.nrdc.org/bio/alejandra-mejia-cunningham/thinking-buying-air-conditioner-consider-heat-pump

I have never used a heat pump before but the comments in this thread led me to to the following question - if the pump is blowing cold air, can it be used as an air con for a living room in summer? E.g. redirect the cold air to the room via a duct and close the duct in winter.

If the BMS needs to replaced out of warranty, it doesn't cost R33000. Something doesn't add up in this story. Did you buy the battery brand new of second hand?

Fix it then. It's wrong.

Where did you configure your battery? It says 150Ah capacity at the bottom of the screen, while it should be 110Ah for Hubble AM-2.

Maybe some installers are talking about the permanent neutral-earth both bond in the main DB at the point of entry and that confuses a lot of people. They probably think, this is the bond on the Load side of the inverter. Just guessing...

Probably, if we create a different poll, we will find out that more than 80% of today's installers are not enough qualified and don't understand the system and standards properly 🙂 Since when polls dictate, what is done according to the standards and what is not?

Ok then. May impression was that on Deye, "Zero Export to CT" means, zero export from the battery up to the CT coil.

Great idea! I also use the Solarman dongle. Maybe I will try to change the setting from there and see.

Thank you! However it's still not ideal. I wonder why Sunsynk doesn't have the same setting as on Deye - "Zero Export to CT". It's the same inverter, just that Sunsynk removed it from their software, thus limiting the options compared to Deye.

Well, this video talks somehow about this issue but 1 year later his suggestions are still ignored by SunSynk. May be you can find a better way to to suggest it to them 🙂

Thank you @Nexuss! I was also thinking of maybe playing with the power settings but that still won't prevent using the battery for the non-essentials completely. Thought, there is another way to achieve it, like the Deye setting. What if I have loadshedding and I want to use more than 2000W during that time on the Load side? Isn't limiting the power going to prevent that?

I was quite surprised to find that out as well. Is there anyway to prevent the non-essentials running off the the battery at night? The Deye inverters have the setting "Zero Export to CT", which I believe achieves that. Anyone been able to find the equivalent combination of settings on Sunsynk?

Check this thread and the test @Scorp007 performed. That’s a real result. Do you have any real results to back up your 26% efficiency claim?

Yes but that’s completely different solution and requires a lot of up front capital. We are just checking at the moment, if it’s worth replacing a normal element with a PTC one. Direct swap and no need to spend additional capital on anything else. Regarding worthiness of heat pumps, completely different tests need to be performed.

But let’s say 10% is correct. If you are using on average 6kWh per day on the geyser, your saving will be 0.6kWh per day. That’s about 0.6kW*R2.4=R1.44 saving per day R525 saving per year. What is the cost difference between the 2 elements and how many years, does one has to use it, in order to break even.

Well, for the power: 1504-1352=152 152/1504*100=10.1% So, the PTC element is about 10% more efficient (you will end up using 10% less power) over the normal element. I wonder how much is the test error margin. But in order to determine that, multiple tests need to be performed. Even your temperature probe could be within 10% error margin, as you probably used a consumer grade and not a laboratory grade probe.

Normal: 16deg + 34deg = 50deg in 37mins. Power used 1504Wh PTC: 15deg + 36deg = 51deg in 37 mins. Power used 1352Wh @Scorp007 is the above correct now?

So, with the normal element, you started at 20deg and increased the temp by 34deg and ended at 54deg. With the PTC, started at 15deg and increased by 36deg. Then ended at 51deg. Is the above correct?