PowerUser

Did you test that yourself? Where is that coming from?

In order to prove your claims I would like to see the following test: 1. Put a normal 3kW element in a geyser with a temperature probe inside and and test how long it will take to heat the water from let’s say 25deg to 65deg. 2. Replace the element with a PTC 2.2kW and test the same again. If it takes the same amount of time, then you are right about the efficiency. However, I’m still to see anyone perform the above 2 tests and publish the results. All I’ve seen so far is marketing claims.

Do you use DC as well on the same 2.2kW PTC element? If yes, are those 112 units only used on the AC on top of the DC power?

Doesn’t it matter, if it’s covered by your household or building insurance? Those of you with the small premium increases, do you know what you are covered for? If your system gets stolen, is your insurance going to pay for it?

Where is this claim coming from? Do you have a link to an actual study or this is just a marketing claim from the companies selling PTC elements? If this is true, this results instantly in almost 27% energy saving. Do you have any reliable reference to support your claim?

One can always add a changeover switch to the geyser input. This will allow you to change the supply manually from essentials to non-essentials on overcast days and have much more control over it.

There is a pervious thread on the forum explaining the Segen box. You just have to search for it.

On some SPD (mine is French CITEL), the positive and negative could be on either pole of the SPD. The colours of the wires in picture is a strange choice though.

Here is diagrams of commercial prewired boxes. I’m only wondering why the panels connect to the bottom of the fuse holder I thought, it’s safer to connect them at the top

Looks like the SPD is after the isolator. It has to be before that.

How did you earth the solar panels and frames to pass the COC? To the utility earth or a separate rod in the ground?

Would you use single or double pole?

10kW on the spec sheet is the discharge rate. Not capacity! Capacity is measured in kWh and not kW, So, they advertise the discharge rate of 10kW. The capacity is 140Ah x 51.2V = 7.168kWh

If you are drawing directly from the battery, you run into a risk to overload the battery. Let’s say 1C battery - if the inverter is pulling close to the 1C rating and at the same time the geyser element draws additional power, you will discharge the battery above the specified safety rating.

Yes, you need to register with their service desk now and log a ticket for firmware upgrade. https://sunsynk.freshdesk.com/support/home I did request a new upgrade 3 days ago and still waiting...

That's why you have an isolator, which is rated to be disconnected under load.

Why would you install a fuse and MCB breaker rated similar? There is no such requirement. And it’s a waste of money. You have to install either one or the other.

What inverter is it for and what is the maximum MPPT voltage in the inverter specs?

How would you earth 2 separate strings of solar panels? Would you connect the frames of both strings together and earth with the same rod or use 2 different rods? And what size earthing cable is recommended? 10mm?

autofit.co.za smells like an absolute scam! Look at their lithium batteries prices too.

Is there anyone who is familiar with the functional difference between 2 pole and 3 pole DC Surge protectors. Examples below: 3 Pole: 2 Pole:

Did you restart the inverter while there was load running from it?

Yes, do a writeup please!

Look at the “battery restart” percentage setting.

When last did you clean those panels? They look very dusty.