GMAC

Sound like a software bug .

Will be interesting to see what others have to say but I would not worry as you are only 12 volt DC . I built in my house an 12v lighting system 10 years + ago . I pulled the 220v wirs out the DB board and connected the 12 v cables to the line replaced all the 220v globe with 12v globes so saving having to wire cables for the 12v system and charged the battery from an 100w panel and so in load shedding we always had lights worked grate . The solar installers did not like my idea of 12v lighting idea but we always had lights on in load shedding and it only cost me one battery , 1 100wat panel and an charger controller . You won't find a cheaper way to keep the lights on

We use gas heater works best and depending on how many hours you run the gas heater it can get expensive.

Google your gen see what they say . Sometimes there a lot of helpful info on Google . Or find some the can test the gen

When my inverter was running on gels I had a lot of float charge issues but when I moved to lithium gone is the float bug . I notice when running on gels after load shedding of around 2 hours the volts would jump so quick to bulk volts it does not show on the screen and return to float making it look like it never reached bulk charged . But on longer load shedding around 6 hours the volts would slowly climb to bulk charge and return to float So if your charge amps are set to highest setting the volts climb very quick to bulk charge . Test lower charge amps setting and see what it does

My experience with mod wave inverters as well as generators is the older TVs had no issues running on such generators but the newer smart TVs don't like running on gens or mod wave inverters . Some smart TV just shut down ofter switching on and others pictures flickers and some run for an hour or 2 and stop working and some just run for hours with out issues . So it's the risk you take of you run the newer TV on anything else than pure sine wave units .

Soon ANC going to charge us for the sun hours we use

We are only 2 in the house with one fridge so our daily use was 17 units a day so small cheap system was the plan . I installed first a gas water heater ( geyser) a few years ago brought the units down to 8 units a day and with gas stove and water heater we burn about a 9 kg gas every 2 month . Then I installed an 3kw MKS plus inverter 4 100ah gels and 4 330wat panels about 4 + years ago and run on solar the day and eskom at night brought my units down to 3 units a day . I have installed a further 2 panels of 370w so making 2060w 2s 3p and bought an 2560w lithium and planning on buying another lithium in the next week or 2 making 5.62kw of lithium then making it possible to go 24/7 off the grid . We loving my small cheap home built inverter system as it's perfect for what we need .

👏👏 . Very lucky . Glad it's working

Sorry that we could not fix your problem but cheap is not always bad as I have a cheap system now for 4 years+ and still going strong so have the inverter checked out ..

You need to change in program 10 which is the charging source from OSO to one of the 2 othere charging source as OSO is solar only

You are very close to its top volt limit and if I have the rite specs it's operating volts is 30 to 120v max 145v it could be the inverter is not happy with the 3 in series and not activating the mppt, if all else fails try 2 panels in series and see if it works as I have read before that some mppt controller don't like volts to close to its limits . Check if the setting are still set on charging source to utility only and change the setting for solar

So far all is good on similar setting only my float is 27.2 but close enough . It would be nice to check battery balance but no complaints about this lithium so far .

The mppt will only except and supply to the load a max of 1500w with my inverter it 1550w the rest is capped . With PV you will get the rated Wats in perfect condition which mite be ones a year . So by going 2060w help to make the day longer as the panels start to generate power earlier in the morning and later in the day and on cloudy days still has the ability to carry the load . I also don't have all the panels facing the same direction so I will never get 2060wats out the setup as I have setup the panels to benefit from mid day to afternoon sun . With my small setup I am able to use the max the mppt can give which is 1500w longer through the day making the setup more efficient .

My one inverter 3kw MKS plus has similar specs also 1500w 30v to 115v , 145v max , 60amp and I have been running 2s 3p PV , 4 330w and 2 370w panels making 2060Wats. The inverter max at 1550 under loads and been running like this for 2 years plus with out issues . Your panels being 425w best is 2s 2p

My gels also dropped to 25.8 after float charge from solar for the day with no load so that's normal . 22v cut of is very low for only constant 100 w it should be more around 23.5v The higher the constant load the lower the cut of volts . That chart is no load volts . What is your bulk charge volts it should be around 28.2 volts and float charge 27v . Even with 28.2 bulk charge the battery will draw high Wats at 27v float for a few hours before fully charged . You won't see Wats draw of you charging from grid but if you charging from solar you can then see the Wats drop from pv as the gels reach there full charge state , an gel at full charge on float charge normally draws a constant around 150w from pv this is the main problem with gels with with lots of load shedding as they never really reach full charge. Install solar to help get the gels to full charge through the day and set setting to charge from solar through the day and from grid at night You could have out of balance battery or just a bad battery check them with multimeter . If you have only 2 120ah in series then with 100w load you should get about 13 to 14 hours depending on how efficient your inverter is, if you not then most probably bad battery Lithium is much better.

Is your load constant at 2000wats plus or is there big fluctuation in loads I'm no pro at inverter but if there is big changes in loads then the mppt controller shuts down and remaps every time there is a big change in loads when running the load from solar .

As said your system is 48v so you can only add a minimum of 4 cells (batterys) at at time . This will give you more run time but then the problem comes in can your inverter charge that amount of storage quick enough and gel batterys does take longer to charge than lithium . looking at what you want to spend now on gels you could just as well start looking at lithium .

57v float charge seems a bit high as I have been float charging at 54v and bulk charge at 57v and battery settle in the evening at 51.8 and 4 year old + gels are still doing well with these setting So it's just my understanding that 57v is a bit high for float charge. Best is to check each battery or cell with an multimeter as one could be bad as your volts do drop to low volts under low loads If you not going to go lithium any time soon best is then to get an balancer as an out of balance cel will reduce the performance of the battery pack . I have spent the money on a lithium and only used it for 2 weeks and it far out performs these gels but as my gels are still going strong decided to uses them till they can't take the normal loads any more .

I have the same one works great . You must have got a dud . Just get it replaced it's worth the trouble getting it replaced

My my setup is similar to yours but 24v system and also had no idea what the real soc is lucky I'm in the radio control hobby for years and had an watmeter so I used it in the beginning to get an better idea of soc to volts using this meter as it connect between lithium and inverter and shows volts and wats as well as ah used so worked great to give me a good idea of what's really going on . But don't leave the watmeter connect permanently if you do decide to buy one at you local hobby shop as these meter were never ment to run 24/7 This is the best advice I can give you to get the best idea what's going on

Think 04 is an low battery warning and is realated to the 12v cut off volts . It's seems these inverters software has been written for gel or lead battery so it starts warning around 1 volts before set cut off volts witch is okay for lead or gel but run it you could get another hour + more before the inverter shuts down . Normally I ignore this low voltage warning on lithium battery if I know my cut of volts are around 20% but am aware that the lithium is one volts from shut down . In the inverters setting I disable the beeps so the low volts warning beeps don't irritate us .

Nice thanks . As I said I only have a 3kw system and a gas geyser or warmer and this is all my wife and I need to run the house from and now to install a system that I can run the electric geyser is just going to cost to much. Have now read that some have gone this path with great success so if I can warm my electric geyser on sunny days and only use the gas on rainy days will be a saving . I tested one of these 220v bucket warming elements on 2 40v 370w in series but it was overcast today but after 10 seconds I could not touch the element so this could work . More testing to come

I also had the same issue tried also for hours trying different method and YouTubing in the end I had to use the laptop method to connect . There is YouTube clips showing how to link up the WiFi dongle using the laptop .

We had a similar issue with a growat and Hubble battery not charging passed 78% on lith setting in the end we set setting to user mode and setup up volts to charge lithium to full charge volts so the lithium BMS can calibrate and then set the battery mode back to lith mode