Jack007

It looks like the solar charge controller had a massive overload, and/or arcing occurred, starting a fire.
Is that a 145 V max PV model?
The damage looks somewhat similar to what happened to a 450 V max PC model. In that case, the fire could have been prevented with a 100 mm length of electrical tape on the inside of the metal case. Two terminals stuck out too far, and made contact with the case. The high PV voltage started an arc that started a fire.
If that is a 145 V max model as I suspect, is it possible that it was wired to much higher voltage panels? Most inverters' solar charge controllers expect high PV voltage these days. Hundreds of PV volts could conceivably cause that sort of damage.

This is awfully. Looks more like a bomb

Hi Jack
from a parts perspective it seems they are identical.if you look at the sotware and the maturity of the sunsynk support/writeback capabilities of the dongle - that sold it for me.
 
The Daye is a good inverter, I would just pay the extra +/- R4k for the sunsynk software and config capabilities. by the way, the solman management dongle for Daye is not he most user friendly and support for it is a pain in the neck (need admins, internal, external users setup to manage own plant and to handover, such a pain and not very commercially end user friendly to do)
Sunsynk also develop a lot - they now have up to a 50kVA beast of an inverter... 
 
again, just my thoughts from a product perspective, decision still yours.

If aiming to generate maximum PV power (15,600 W) then I would suggest 10s2p on MPPT1 (11,100 Wp) and 10s1p on MPPT2 (5,550 Wp) for a total of 16,650Wp (6.73% oversize) @ 497.2 Voc, 409.90 Vmp and 13.54 Imp.

I have to agree on the answer from @GreenFields
as if I wrote it.

I highly doubt. Most likely one of the two strings into MPPT1 was not connected properly but the OP never bothered to check and feedback.

Yes the MPPT can handle 14 panels with ease. MPPT1 can take 34A and MPPT2 17A. You selected a good panel. MPPT1 should be able to handle 2 parallel strings. 
This is how I see it. 
No clipping. You are also well clear of the combined 15.6kW for PV. 

I'm seeing 9S2P + 9S as a decent enough setup, about as well as you can do with this choice of panel. Better may have been a panel producing max power at a lower current, say 10-11A, so that you could configure for a higher input Voltage closer to middle of the range. But at least with 368V you are still far enough away from the startup and shutdown Voltages. At least you're still in the normal operating range. And with overpanelling with 15.6kW of panels on a 12kW inverter, you should be able to make up somewhat for a less than optimum Voltage. Just my 2c. Your decision, your risk.

It needs to be the e-linter dongle. I cannot comment on what is shipped with Deye's . From what I have read, the elinter dongle should work on deye's

@Jack007 I think solarman loggers use this one https://github.com/StephanJoubert/home_assistant_solarman
@slipx I think I might be jumping the gun again and the bars will widen as the data set increases, I think the 3 day data was still to little to see a notable difference but it looks like it but will confirm once I'm home tonight that it's not just an optical illusion being on a different monitor at work 😅

I was going to say no but the Aux / Smart load function kinda does this. It doesn't turn the switch on per se - it just powers the unit from PV as opposed to grid - you could look into that.
Its probably better to get into something like Home Assistant that will allow you to do this and much more throughout your home

It's not been asked yet @Jack007 and I think it will depend on the dongle you get with the Deye.  If it is the E-linter dongle it might but don't quote me on that, @Gary Waterworth wrote the nodes so think best would be for him to confirm or give insights on this.

Deye uses the Solarman logger and this integration wont work with that logger. You will need to use another integration into HA

@BritishRacingGreen don't you perhaps have an reconditioned unit?

Yes the MKS models can be in SIG (single), PAR (parrallell, 3P1 (3ph #1}, 3P2 or 3P3. The last three is your 3ph modes.  
The later generations also have VM (value line) models but only entertain  single mode. 

I only know the Voltronic Axperts (with various brand names); I believe that most inverters from manufacturers have similar arrangements, but I have no idea of the details for them.
With Axperts, you can't parallel the very small model, usually you need at least 4 kVA before they have the paralleling ability. But above this power level, pretty much all models can be paralleled, EXCEPT the VM models (e.g. Kodak OG with no further letters or characters like +). These VM models are the "value" models, that have a smaller processor that doesn't have room for all the paralleling firmware support.
You usually need one paralleling kit for each inverter to be paralleled or 3-phased. With 3 phase, you need at least  3 inverters, you can't do 2 (and there would be no point). A few models come with a paralleling board already installed, and presumably one set of paralleling cables comes with.
As for do well, the Axperts (which I regard as just barely good enough) seem to do OK most of the time with paralleling; I have a pair of paralleled Axperts myself (PIP-4048MS). Once set up properly, they seem to do fine, except for the occasional report of fault code 60 (power feedback protection). Even that seems to be an installation problem. I had a problem with one of my paralleling boards that was affected by nearby lightning, and was able to repair it myself.

Because they are 120° apart, there is 400 V between them. So you can't parallel them; this would effectively be short circuiting a stout 400 V supply.
This is the frustration of separated loads or a even 3-phase setup. There can be situations where you have plenty of capacity, but because of the configuration, you can't use it all. If you parallel all on one phase, that never happens, because all the paralleled inverters share the load about equally.

Yes.
Single phase is just one phase (any will do) and neutral.
No need for extra wires for single phase.
Different utilities have different requirements in this regard. But in general, it doesn't matter all that much. Loads tend to average out across the phases, and if they don't, the utility can change one or more customers from one phase to another.
No. A three phase inverter is like three single phase inverters in one box. It can get a little tricky sorting out the currents that will flow when you have genuine 3-phase loads and single phase loads.
Usually, yes. Though if you have a 3-phase inverter, usually these will not want to talk to a single phase inverter. With Axperts for example, you usually install three identical inverters for 3-phase, but you can add a fourth, fifth or more identical inverter to the setup to beef up one or more phases. These inverters have to be physically close to each other to be paralleled; you can't have inverters in separate buildings in parallel.
24 kW.
Ignoring start-up currents for now (and these are very significant, often 5x - 7x the full load current), you could run a 24 kW load such as a 24 kW motor.
Let's say you have a 9 kW three-phase load. It could be connected star (phase to neutral) or delta (phase to phase); it doesn't matter, each inverter will be providing 3 kW either way. So those inverters would each have 5 kW capacity left over for single phase loads. If you had say a 6 kW single phase load, you could not run it, even though you have 15 kW capacity spare (24 - 9 = 15), since each inverter only has 5 kW capacity left over.

It has to do with safety of any electrical installation. If any power generation does not comply to safe earthing standards then you put lives on the line. Sans 10142 is not as such a set of rules to be followed but it applies to safety to the consumer and property. If any generator is connected to Eskom it must be isolated from the grid via a double pole 3 position transfer switch or a Ats( outomatic transfer switch) that breaks live and neutral. Secondly using a      V-0-V generator your RCD would not work as designed due to incorrect earhing arrangement. In the event of property any electrical installation or inadequate equipment used you will not be able to obtain a COC and therefore your insurance will not honour the agreement even if it is off grid.

I have bought a MeanWell charger from CurrentAutomation. I hope that the CAN interface can work with my batteries. But I must still test it.
To my knowledge poor generator control primarily shows up in speed/frequency fluctuations. Filters can only assist with harmonics, not changing the supply frequency. So, they won't work for you unless harmonics are affecting the sensing of the frequency.

SANS 10142-1 states in clause 7.12.2.7 that a 230 V generator with a V-O-V earth connection (centre tap on winding which is earthed) shall
not be connected to a fixed electrical installation. Such a generator may only be used as a free-standing unit to provide power to specific appliances. If the generator has a tubular frame it is most probably a V-0-V arrangement. To test start your generator and plug a earth leakage tester in if it shows the fault indication ( incorrect wiring) then you know it is a V-0-V arrangement. That is the main reason i bought the Turner & Morrison diesel generator as it is a V-0-0 and legal to connect to your utility power via a changeover switch.

I haven't looked to see what they did in 74.50.
Patched firmware version 74.40e.

Surge arresters may not be able to absorb the whole power of a surge but can manage as much as 90% of it which is enough to prevent damage to your electronics. The rest of the power surge should be handled by smaller surge protectors in devices. I run a 8kva Turner& Morris diesel silent generator and never had a problem synchronizing with my 8kw Deye inverter. Smaller petrol generators tend to generate harmonics due to flactuations when loading and unloading. I use this double pole surge arrestor in my generator change over switch.

Quite the opposite,disconnecting and reconnecting is exactly the problem

A surge arrestor will probably not help. I suspect the inverter does not like the fluctuating frequency of the generator. Put in a Sunsynk/Deye inverter and then you will be able to limit the generator load. You also can consider running a dedicated 48V charger off the generator. Otherwise more solar and batteries can work