HowardB

I am not familiar with these particular lights so may be they work differently to the globes I use (not downlights).
You said "The instructions state that if the power fails, switch the switch on & off to activate the light".
It is my understanding the switch needs to be ON for the light to work.
Try shorting across the contacts of one of an uninstalled downlight, if it lights up then my theory is correct.

Hi @HowardBthe one I know is called Caprica Solar. I know the owner well & I have has a 5kW Axpert repaired in days gone by & it's still working. https://capricasolar.co.za/
NIt the best part of town but he will get this inverter repaired. Trying calling before hand to setup an appointment.

Good. I have heard that it is indicated to take them to 14.4V to enable balancing but I have never got them there. I use 2 voltmeters for each battery and they are never out by more than 0.1V like now. If it gets to 0.2V I will manually charge 1 or discharge the other. Mine have been running for 7 months.

Not sure why the inverter went. I would not have taken the Hubble to 28.8V.That is where the BMS would cut them off. This I would try to prevent. I use 27.8V normal charge. At around 27.4V the Hubble do not accept much charge as the current drops of to below 3A. Thus indicating they are nearly full. 27.4V is what I float mine and they give me more capacity that the spec. I cut them off at 24.5-25V.
Yes the high level of charge at 28.8V is the reason you see they take so long to reach that level.
Just my 2c on my pairing of Hubble and Axpert.

I don't see why it can't. I understand that each battery must be earthed to the cabinet or to a common earth terminal. If it all goes to the DB lug, then should be fine. 
Mine runs from each battery to the battery cabinet common earth then to the DB earth. 

I can keep app running for hours and it won't timeout. But I have US3000, which may have a different firmware, so cannot really compare the behavior.
 
Looks like the electronics in your master battery is damaged.
Try this:
turn off the batteries disconnect the short black RJ45 cable between the module 2 and module 3 turn on the batteries With the steps above, you effectively create a two piles, with two bricks in each. I bet that one of the piles will work okay, while the other will experience those errors again. If that's the case, then you have a defective battery and should ask your vendor for a swap.
Clear?

Yes, no change to the DC cables is needed.
 
 
That would be a perfect test.
 

And here's the cable pinout that you will need probably...

Message sent

@HowardB
How about to run BatteryView.exe when you experience the alarm? BV gives you a bit more insight on what's going on then ICC does.
You will need to disconnect ICC cable as BV uses the same (console) port too...
 

From my side i’ve had no more trouble - probably since I’ve been cycling them after my panels went in.
Set the float down to 52v.  The 1% imbalance is a lot but for me imbalance tended to go away as soon as the cell voltages went down a bit.

Howard,
See the thread, My Build, where I removed the old DB face plate and then put my 3 rail box over the hole of the old box.
you get a 2 rail box also.
G

Thanks @plonkster, just really interested to know - seems common sense is not so common any more - if a breaker shows ON/OFF, which most seem to reflect, imo this would negate the UP-is-on position problem; light switches for example are often not clearly marked (or marked at all) and can be orientated any which way you want, but it seems the DB switches must be in a certain way - all my light switches are down for on and up for off, which kind-of goes against any code that seems applicable in the home electrical circuit requirements.
I'm having a tough time trying to understand some of the local codes and have honestly given up on some things as they just don't make any logical sense to me at all 
Will chat to the sparky about ti when I see him in a few weeks.

Thanks @plonkster, just really interested to know - seems common sense is not so common any more - if a breaker shows ON/OFF, which most seem to reflect, imo this would negate the UP-is-on position problem; light switches for example are often not clearly marked (or marked at all) and can be orientated any which way you want, but it seems the DB switches must be in a certain way - all my light switches are down for on and up for off, which kind-of goes against any code that seems applicable in the home electrical circuit requirements.
I'm having a tough time trying to understand some of the local codes and have honestly given up on some things as they just don't make any logical sense to me at all 
Will chat to the sparky about ti when I see him in a few weeks.

From a facebook group I follow with lots of American guys... putting things at 90 degrees of normal is against code. I have no idea what the local rules say. Apparently there is a rule that says if they are vertical, UP must be the on position. Of course mounting them sideways makes this ambiguous, and may well be the reason it will be frowned upon.
Ask a sparky. This is stuff they should know... 😉

In my experience it depends on the internal balance of the batteries. It seems to reset to 100% at 53V (sometimes earlier, but 53V seems to be the voltage if you want to get there "for sure"). 52V on a new battery can show as little as 94%, and over time tends to improve to 96% or more. In the end, the SOC remains an estimation based on  number of internal measurements, and it's one you should perhaps not worry about too much.

Quick update:
When set to 53.2V for bulk charging and 52.2V for float charge, the Pylon's SOC shows 99.50% and never gets to 100%. If the float charge is increased to 52.3V it gets to 99.75% SOC and on 52.4V it gets to 100% SOC at 3.5V per cell.
So I've set it to 52.4V on Thursday and so far no alarm - will watch over the next week or so to see if it happens again.

That would be very annoying in an off grid situation.

I've pretty much always uses 52v.
But since I've been cycling my batteries there have been no issues.
 

That's around 3.45V per cell, which is a really good voltage to work with. Most suppliers take them up to 3.55V per cell, but by then you are past the elbow point and the battery doesn't store much additional energy.

Couple of weeks ago, I just switched my battery bank from 20kWh Winston to 4x Pylon US3000, 14kWh total. And these are the parameters that are working okay for me:
C.C. = 52.5V
C.V.  = 52.0V
No unexpected shutdowns are occuring, batteries are being charged to full, no auto-draining of the battery when it's in the C.V. state.
I will monitor the batteries over couple of months, whether the cells will start to be unbalanced on not. If not, I will stick to this lower charging voltage as I prefer longevity rather than stretching the capacity of the batteries to it's limits

There are 2 heatsinks in a kit. The small one goes on the black square, and the bigger one on the silver square. The silver square with the raspberry logo remains as is. If the pi is switched on, you will feel the heat with your finger after a few minutes. Most shops that sell the pi sell them. 

Thanks Riaan.
Will take a look and see what I can find
 

Not difficult to open, but those come with cooling fins attached.
The one of mine that runs so cool is running in the Pi Fanned case, Fan running from the 40 pin connector.
R
(Edit) PS I need to replace that fan annually, but at like R25 a pop, well worth it.

Hi Howard,
Unfortunately I know nothing about the Axperts and remote units. Sorry. 
Let us know how you get on.