Dex_

great review, entered 👍

Hi, did you resolve your issue?

Posted as a seperate thread, hoping anyone with a luxpower sna5000 and revov R100 setup could guide me, or anyone with any knowledge that could be useful?

Hi All, Struggling a bit to setup a system, have a luxpower sna5000 connected to the revov R100. Very hard to find latest accurate information on the inverter or the battery. The latest known information: Battery dip switch (1 up, the other 3 down) Battery code: 20 for revov Inverter has a blue dip switch next to the parallel comms ports thus I beleive it is the newer pinout configuration. Trying to do CAN communication between the inverter and battery Inverter - pin 4 - CAN H Inverter - pin 5 - CAN L Battery - pin 4 - CAN H Battery- pin 5 - CAN L with this setup i get a warning 00 (no communication) but If i switch battery code to something like code 2 (pylon) then I seem to get some comms such as seeing a SOC but I get a warning 04. Anyone that can guide me on how to communicate between a luxpower sna5000 and revov R100 or at least help me understand the revov pinouts for CAN or RS485? Thanks in advance!

Hi all, A few questions I haven't been able to find definitive answers to, if anyone could please help? 1.) can the unit export power to grid? the manual seems to loosely indicate it does but i find no further info on it, I know this isn't techhnically a hybrid inverter even though they call it one? 2.) The fan noise, some say it is bad and others say it is quiet, whats the deal here or is it a case of the fan settings and load? TIA

Hi @Coulomb the only reason i see it as one question is that I dont currently have the PYL option though i have the port.

Hi All, I know it has been asked countless times but please can you help a bit of a firmware flashing noob out. I have a Mecer King and pylontechs, I have never updated firmaware and ahve been running USE with no issues experienced (for my application) for 2 years. Model:SOL-I-AX-5K Current versions: U1 (Main CPU): 71.50 U2 (Secondary CPU): 01.12 U3 (Bluetooth): 00.21 U4 (SCC): 01.10 I would like to ask firstly is it worhwhile updating and connecting to the batteries using PYL for better communciation? My assumption would be yes? Then I beleive there are 2 firmwares to update, the main and the display? what should I use that is known stable and things to look out for? Then how do I connect the battery to the unit, I have the cable origionally supplied with the inverter, do i connect that to port 18 and the RS485 on the pylontechs (and to which, the master?)? I have read something about using specific dipswitch settings?

I have a 6 input combiner box with type 2 protection, i am not sure of the exact fuses per string off hand or the main fuse, i will need to check that, when it was origionally sourced the requirement to add more panels was discussed so i hope it is in place, will check.

looking deeper into this the panels are 47.0 V and 10.82 A, the inverters mppt is 60-115V and 80Amp max. the reason i initially went for strings of 2 was that i thought 3 in a string was pushing the Voltage range limit. so 6 strings of (47V*2) 94V at 10.82A a string gives a total amperage of 64.92A. Seems safe?

Hi All, I want to add more panels to my system, currently i have 6 x 400W panels on my Axpert King, I would ideally have liked to add another 6, though that theoretically puts me over the maximum input W to the MPPT. Though i have never seen 2400W from my existing panels. Would it be safe to add another 6 panels considering losses and efficiency or should i play it safe with 4? Also the position of the new panels will be closer on the roof to the inverter than the existing panels by probably 5 meters or so, do the cable lengths of all strings need to be the same or are differing lengths fine? i assume it doesnt matter but want to be sure when they put it in. TIA

new batt is in and charged up bring the loadshedding

imo it will just take longer to charge is all. but yeah i worked it out as 37 + 37 + 25 = 99 (sorry not sure why i said 110 before), likewise why i said if you cant actually provide that much it doesnt matter to change it.

i feel like yours should be higher than 40A? like imo 110A is safe for yours isnt it? of course it makes no diff if you cant provide that much then might as well keep it lower. (i am also not sure of the systems limit off hand, i am assuming it is like 100, and split on PV and AC, but you get the idea)

thanks for confirming both

Hi All, so finally after about 6 months of having my system i got another 2.4Kw pylontech to add to the system. I was hoping to get advice on the safe and proper way to put it into my system my idea is to toggle the inverter to its "off" position, then turn the existing pylontech off. then i plan to pull the fuse box disconnect open to essentially disconnect the batteries from the inverter. Then wire it up as such: the dip swtiches i am not 100% sure on, do i leave them all as 000 since there is only 1 group? (i.e group 0) then i would turn on the power button of master and its child and then press the red button on the master, i beleive after this the child will be on also? lastly adjust my inverters 02 setting from 20A to 50A? Any feedback or advice? Thank you.

i have thought about this, or even changing my geysers element and running it off the system, i feel like it will be more to juggle though (timing and power outtages etc), i also don't really want to stress the system more than i need to. have you gone this route?

thanks for your feedback frankly i think with it just being me and my wife a smaller geyser will be perfect, i often shower at gym anyway, there are some weeks where i end up showering at home like twice. i considered a gas geyser, but they aren't cheap and then you still need to purchase gas, i feel with a solar geyser my break even will be way sooner and besides for issues or an occasional service the system will run for free.

Hi All, I was hoping for some consolidated info and opinions, I currently have a 200L geyser sitting in my roof, i want to put in a solar geyser this year and was considering my options. What is the opinion on the best solution all round, in terms of usability and cost effectiveness? should i be looking to retrofit the current geyser or should i be looking at a new one all together and what is the opinion on the different types, with panels, with evacuated tubes etc? lastly any suggestions on reliable suppliers/installers and what to look out for? Thanks

yeah he said inductive so i assumed it was not your regular heater type element but some funky space heater with a motor perhaps

why on earth are you running a heater in summer xD its likely the inrush current of the heater is overloading the inverter, that or your batteries are chronically under charged. Does the inverter power other loads fine?

it probably has a low cut off voltage, do you have any kind of manual/spec sheet? i doubt it is adjustable though

what inverter?

I'm betting it is 145

nah his problem is definitely the charge/cut off settings he had that trigger the first problem, the one you are talking about he probably has but is secondary also setting 2 will override setting 11 if it is lower

you aren't wrong, his load is so low though anyway.