Dex_

my king also only has 1 x 2.4 pylontech on it, besides for the obvious downside of being able to deplete it much faster is there any negative impact of having a smaller bank on the inverter? i can't seem to think there would be? from my experience on my system i would change 26 - 53.2 27 - 52.0

I am only doing about 5kWh a day need more load....

how that 220Kwh is distributed is what really makes the difference. Does this include your geyser? is your stove/oven gas?

5 should be USE 2 seems way too high 13 seems way too high 12, 26, 27 and 29 seem at least closer to what i would expect. What does the manufacturer recommend? EDIT: i see you say it isn't connected yet. my bad.

what are your current settings? i have heard that the inverters dont always like the noisy power of the generators to charge, one trick it to apparently load the generator with a small power source ~300W and then pulg it in to feed the inverter

Sorry Coulomb, I just wanted to ask something on this... i have an axpert king, and a pylontech. the future plan is to possibly expand the system and add an ICC, but for now is there any other way to know if i am chronically under-charged? the SOC lights on the battery itself seem to indicate that the battery is always generally full? and other advice appreciated. (note i don't think anything is wrong per say - i would rather just be sure)

/in before axpert bashing 😛 but seriously you should read up on both sides, imo the axperts are great value but they do have some known issues. I personally would say if you are spending the money pay a little bit more and get the king series. Also I have never heard of that battery but who knows, I would suggest pylontech or you can go with the revov's, they are second life batteries but offer good value?

smort some nice rain on thursday night here, panels were pretty dusty!, the highest peak i saw before this was 1.9kw on my 2.4kw array, today i saw 2.11 ask yourself this... where do hadidas go when they die? have you ever seen a dead hadida? bet you have seen a dead pidgeon/dove though.

looks like it is this: https://www.sbsbattery.com/PDFs/Ni-Cad-Single-Cell-KPL-Low.pdf http://www.hbl.in/publicimages/downloads/NCPP-Vented-Single-Cell-Catalogue.pdf

what do yo have and what are your needs/goals?

yeah my bad my screen was showing each page one under the other and i thought it flowed like that xD

agree with plonkster, check here and look at section 9 https://www.centsys.co.za/pdf/prod/1213.D.05.0001 Single Channel Nova Helix receiver manual 08052018BM.pdf

I know this is old, but there is no way your inverters charge controller is limited to 18A

@Mars

strange I would have expected higher voltages and not such lows on the discharge. edit: in fact i am pretty certain the datasheet suggested a charge voltage of 54

ah ok i see. I am on SUB setting (solar, utility, bat) and the unit can mix sources, so it can take 2Kw from PV if avail and the remaining say 0.5kw from utility.

is a wind generator not AC?

good point i could put it on and check it, i would need to go to a 2kw element if it isnt one because my array is 2.4 max of which i naturally have only seen like 2kw so far.

the slow cooker to me just seems mildly safer, imo its draw is much less than the oven (fair point about lower temp though) - that and my oven circuit is on the eskom side.

xD - makes me wonder if the whole units internals are backwards now, that second vid he strips it, might be worth opening up and seeing if it is backwards xD

ah great stuff

one side says source, one side says load, to me that is how it looks like it should be connected. wires seem scrawny though to handle 100A @ 60V let alone 48V but I am no electrician. video:

i kinda sit with a similar "predicament" and I only use my very small battery bank for outages, but essentially my system sits idle mostly except for covering any stand by loads, like the fridge cycling on and off and things like routers being on and what not. I set the pool pump to run 4 hours during the day, but even that is only like 1/3 of the potential, as we move into summer I will probably up this to 6-8 hours. I am really considering putting the geyser onto the system, the thing halting me at this point is: - i need to put in a geyser timer then which means some lifestyle adjustments - i need to check and possibly replace the element to a 2kw one, i have no idea what is in there now - not really sure how to tell without actually removing it? - i need to account for when there is no solar (i.e bad weather) and also no eskom, like a cable fault etc, because this could mean draining my batteries. - longevity of the inverter, from what i understand generally the harder you work it the sooner it will need to be replaced. Other ideas i have considered: - starting to cook more with a slow cooker set to run during the day - this is a double bonus since you can come home to cooked food - not sure what kind of safety risk this is all considered. - it hasn't really been cold, but in winter you could use some of those flat panel heaters and in summer an aircon or some fans late afternoon to cool the house a bit Any ideas i think it might be important to consider the effect of having no solar / no eskom and controlling the usage based on that.

yes exactly this. you can get it at most hardware type stores.

you get proper channeling rather than pvc gutters, personally i would use that rather.