JacquesVDM

The main issue was the MPPT clipping at 13A causing overheating of the IGBTs and possible failure of the MPPT. The hardware was updated some time ago (after serial no 133....), but now with the software also updated is it not clipping at 13A. So now it can support larger panels / higher current panels.

Your picture is correct. No earth leakage on the inverter input. (Neutral/Earth bond will trip it.)
Earth leakage on output of inverter (essentials).
Earth leakage on circuits not on inverter (non-essentials).
Two separate neutral bars (for each earth leakage)

What about a third option?
Option 3: Panels -> Isolator -> Fuses -> SPD
Isolator to switch off to work on fuses / SPD
Fuses before SPD to blow if a surge is suppressed by the SPD

I was wrong. Those are DC. The 400v ones that you can get online will also work. I would go for them to have some kind of margin as they would protect at 400v before reaching the mppts max input of 500v. 

No workaround yet. Just ticked "zero export to load" and now I don't power non-essentials with PV and also don't drain batteries with the non-essentials. 

Would it not use eskom from 9am before there is enough PV and batteries are below 80%? Would it not be better to have a setting of 30% during daytime? (to rather use PV and not make use of eskom). That late afternoon slot to 95% I agree is a good one.

Is it possible to have the Deye (8kw) inverter running in off-grid mode, but still with grid connected? I know it is a Hybrid inverter, but I see on the graphs that it "follows" the grid supply and that voltage varies quite a lot. I would like to have it operate it like an Axpert type of inverter and only "switch" to grid once it is needed. Any setting that I missed that could have it operate in that way?

Hi guys,
Having some time during Lockdown, I have came up with this simple "controller" for the Axpert inverter with Pylontech batteries. It does not run on a Pi, but on an ESP8266. What do you think:

It can by caused by an appliances that uses pwm in its control. It does it with my coffee machine and 3D printer. Only also on some lights. Have a look at what is running when your lights flicker and switch off until you find what is causing it. It is because the inverter is too slow to control the output voltage. 

It can by caused by an appliances that uses pwm in its control. It does it with my coffee machine and 3D printer. Only also on some lights. Have a look at what is running when your lights flicker and switch off until you find what is causing it. It is because the inverter is too slow to control the output voltage. 

Either the inverter "drives" the E/N bond relay or it does it internally. If bonded permanently, and during bypass mode on the inverter, there develops a cable fault with the neutral interrupted,  a fault current would flow through the E/N bond and through the earth conductor back to the supply transformer (and not back via the N conductor). 

Either the inverter "drives" the E/N bond relay or it does it internally. If bonded permanently, and during bypass mode on the inverter, there develops a cable fault with the neutral interrupted,  a fault current would flow through the E/N bond and through the earth conductor back to the supply transformer (and not back via the N conductor). 

Inverter fed from main DB, not through an earth leakage. Output of inverter through an earth leakage. E/N bonding on output of inverter before earth leakage via an E/N bond relay if the inverter does not have such a function build in. Permanent E/N bond on output of inverter is not allowed as it would bond E/N of grid supply if inverter is in by-pass mode.

I didn't want to say anything at first, but am also thinking that those two panels that are on a different angle will pull the rest down to its production output. Could you possibly disconnect those two from the rest of the string? 

There is not suppose to be an earth leakage on the input to the inverter:
On the "eskom" non essential circuit, a earth leakage is required, but the supply to the inverter must be taken before the earth leakage. An earth leakage is also required after (at the output)  of the inverter.
What is happening is that the inverter is bonding the neutral and earth, which is causing the tripping.

I have my genuine Axpert set to 52.5V and have zero issues or alarms. Going nearly 3 years. In the beginning I had it at 53.5V and had a few OV alarms. But since the drop to 52.5V no alarms and batteries goes to 100% each day. 

@Scubadude, Yes through RS232 and then using the "BatteryView" software to get info of the batteries. Just search for "BatteryView" on this forum for the software.

Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the info. Will start working through all of the links. Don't have the batteries yet. Also not sure which inverter(s) we are going to use. Currently having a look a Sunsynk and are supported by Bluenova. Will post an update "if" I come right with the protocol/interface.
 

Hi guys,
Having some time during Lockdown, I have came up with this simple "controller" for the Axpert inverter with Pylontech batteries. It does not run on a Pi, but on an ESP8266. What do you think:

Just an update on my "Lockdown project":
 
- Interfaces to 'Blynk': Can see the values and also change settings using the Blynk app on my phone.
-Google sheets: records data to google sheets. Interval is adjustable. To get a nice graph: use Grafana. I have installed a local copy of Grafana with the google sheets plugin on my laptop. It just pulls the data in seamlessly.  
-IFTTT (If this then that): notifies inverter faults, inverter switching between battery/grid and can also notify at specific SOC low and high setpoints. I have setup my IFTTT to send messages to Telegram. Can also send to email.
 
Hope this gives some ideas for you guys out there doing their own inverter interface controller / software.

Just an update on my "Lockdown project":
 
- Interfaces to 'Blynk': Can see the values and also change settings using the Blynk app on my phone.
-Google sheets: records data to google sheets. Interval is adjustable. To get a nice graph: use Grafana. I have installed a local copy of Grafana with the google sheets plugin on my laptop. It just pulls the data in seamlessly.  
-IFTTT (If this then that): notifies inverter faults, inverter switching between battery/grid and can also notify at specific SOC low and high setpoints. I have setup my IFTTT to send messages to Telegram. Can also send to email.
 
Hope this gives some ideas for you guys out there doing their own inverter interface controller / software.

Just an update on my "Lockdown project":
 
- Interfaces to 'Blynk': Can see the values and also change settings using the Blynk app on my phone.
-Google sheets: records data to google sheets. Interval is adjustable. To get a nice graph: use Grafana. I have installed a local copy of Grafana with the google sheets plugin on my laptop. It just pulls the data in seamlessly.  
-IFTTT (If this then that): notifies inverter faults, inverter switching between battery/grid and can also notify at specific SOC low and high setpoints. I have setup my IFTTT to send messages to Telegram. Can also send to email.
 
Hope this gives some ideas for you guys out there doing their own inverter interface controller / software.

Hi Windgat. Thanks. Configured esp8266 for two serial ports: one standard and one using software serial on the other two pins. I first used Max3232 level shifters to convert from ttl to rs232 , but changed to a normal discrete transistor level shifter after having endless issues with that chips. So for your question: yes, the voltages on the inverter is too high and must be converted. 
Just an update on the software: have changed the logging from Google sheets to thingspeak now - gives more free memory. Some nice apps for thingspeak on Playstore and can also configure "reacts" on thingspeak to notify me of battery levels, inverter mode etc. 

Also in this forum some nice info: https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?title=pip4048ms-inverter&t=4332

So the wife's old S7's battery gave out and after 2 more attempts to replace it with batteries that last I gave up and made a small screen for the Kitchen. Got most of the basic info running on it and so far so good. It also doubles as a small picture frame.