superdiy

It is supposed to be ear-height (in line with your ear).

I haven't actually tried to access the DB files - I'm not even sure what db is used by SolarPower, I think it might be the same as used by WatchPower - maybe jdp can assist.

What is that speaker doing against the ceiling?

Sorry, then I don't know. I remember I've fiddled with that setting on my inverter, but maybe I have not changed it to NRS097 - I'll have to verify.

I don't think you need anything, you just change the Standard: option in the drop-down to NRS097. I did mine a while ago. Just keep in mind that the inverter might switch off / restart after you've changed the option and if the computer you're using to change the option is connected to the inverter output, it will be switched off. I cannot remember if the inverter restarted automatically or if I had to switch it on again.

You can see the firmware versions in SolarPower. They are referred to Main CPU processor version and Secondary CPU processor version.

It depends. I only run Windows XP on the PC connected to my inverter - no internet connection either and no serial cable. Guess we can make a plan.

Yes, sure, I'll give you those sections of the code, but I'm definitely not going to put it in a nice document. Oh, by the way, in this case google was not of much help except for one doc containing only 30 query statements and only 16 commands for the infini 3K - that covers about half of it. Nothing at all for the 5K or 10K models...

Neither did I, nothing else available for the infinis.

Brings back memories - PC Logo in computer science in "standerd ag" (grade 10) and Turbo Pascal thereafter.

I'm pretty sure the infini would do the same. You can use it without batteries, and I think if the load is smaller than the generated PV it will supply the load, but I need to confirm that.

The standard GTIs all work that way - you connect its output in parallel with your grid connection and while the grid is available the GTI will generate AC (from the connected PV) and tie that with the grid in order to supply the load (your house). When the grid fails the GTI also stops generating power. The grid tie limiter is another add-on to the system which monitors the power flowing to the grid and if the GTI generates more power than what is required by the load, it communicates with the GTI and the GTI then reduces its output power in order to prevent power from flowing into the grid. Since the OP is not really affected by loadshedding a GTI should work fine and will only shut down occasionally when the grid fails. I also investigated the GTI option initially, but when I learned that it will switch off during loadshedding I realized that that is not an option and decided on the true hybrid, which can grid tie and still supply the load when the grid fails.

The reason why he wants to run the generator and GTI together is to use the make use of the power generated by the GTI (PV) to supply the load and if the GTI cannot supply enough power to the load, it will draw the remainder of the required power from the generator. If he uses the generator only he wastes the available PV power at that moment.

I won't take the chance to connect an inverter generator to the grid tie limiter, a normal generator perhaps, but not the inverter type. Under normal circumstances when the grid tie limiter is connected between the GTI and the grid and the GTI's load suddenly drops, the grid tie limiter will sense that some power is going into the grid and then it will send the instruction to the GTI to alter its output in order to only generate as much as required by the load. If you now switch over to a generator or inverter generator instead of using the grid, there is a good chance that power will flow back to the generator before the grid tie limiter manage to alter the GTI's output and there is a good chance that the power flowing into the inverter generator will kill it - a standard generator might still survive it.

Glad to see another Delphi developer. I'm connecting to my infini via USB and therefor started off with USB development, I'll add serial comms at a later stage.

Yes please. I'm getting there.

Oh, by the way, welcome to the forum.

The FLIR One is an add-on to a smartphone / tablet. It uses the smartphone / tablet as screen, control and for storage etc. etc. which makes it a lot cheaper than a stand-alone full function all-in-one thermal camera. While the FLIR One is a smartphone / tablet hardware extension it opens up a lot of opportunities in the form of different applications making use of the (thermal imaging) hardware for various applications. If you have a stand-alone all-in-one thermal camera you are limited to its own capabilities. There are already quite a few apps available making use of the FLIR One hardware.

Plonky has a 24V system - 8 x 12V batteries will be 4 strings.

Because it is LiFePo4 - they always spec them different to lead-acid.

At the time I did my installation, I did not have the option, but if I would redo everything now the only thing I would change is to install the infini 5KW Plus model instead of the infini 3KW Plus model and with that a bigger battery bank. The reason for choosing the 5KW Plus is only because the infini 3KW Plus is only able to charge up to 25A and that limits you to a 250Ah battery bank. The infini 5KW Plus model can charge up to 100A and therefor you can successfully add a battery bank of up to 1000Ah.

As I understand it the thermal image is of a low resolution, typically 160 x 120. The visible image camera takes a picture of higher resolution, 640 x 480 (FLIR One) or 320 x 240 (OP's camera) and then the object outlines in the visible image is overlayed on top of the low resolution (160 x 120) thermal image to produce a final image of 640 x 480 (FLIR One) or 320 x 240 (OP). The "captured" / "saved" image and / or video will be in the higher 640 x 480 (FLIR One) or 320 x 240 (OP's camera) resolution.

And you have to keep the welding rods dry. Mine lies on top of my infini - before the infini they always lay on top of the APC UPS.

You don't have to be a good welder, you just need to know how to use a baby grinder and flapper discs.

12V and 24V won't cut it - it needs to be at least 2 banks @ 48V.