Tsa

Thanks for all the informative replies guys. I see the different T1 to T3 options with and without RF, white and black, etc. . Then also the different models EU/UK/US. What would we run in SA?

Thanks for the feedback @Chris Louw. I guess the above will work if you have all the lights you want to switch on and off at the same time on the same CB. In my case I only need 3 outside lights on, not all of the lights on the same CB. That is why I am looking at wiring the sonoff smart switch into the specific light connection for the lights I have one, ideal place being behind the current light switch if there is space. My question still is if this is possible and a good option. Hopefully one of the other guys that have done this can comment. Noted on RF and Wifi. Thanks Which sonoff are you running on the pool pump? Thanks

Hi All I want to start utilizing sonoff switches and controlling these via the App, with the idea of eventually expanding this into one of the home automation software options which can talk to the inverter. I want to start off with security outside lights and also the pool pump. 1) The idea is to have the security light switches always on (physically) and then control current via the sonoff wifi smart switch. Is this suggested? Idea being to use the current light switches as is, just wire the sonoff into the relevant circuit for the outside light on a specific switch. In most cases these are 2 gang switches with one being for an internal light and the other switch on the panel being the outside light. I am considering the smart wifi switch or the mini before having to go the route of replacing the whole switch panel with the sonoff touch light switch. Timer to enable when lights go on and off during the night. 2) Pool pump has its own sub db with a timer. Idea also here is to put in a sonoff device that would either replace the timer, where the sonoff app enables the timer and also give me the option of remotely switching off the pump. (batteries too low and low PV). Again hopefully automating this in a home automation tool at a later stage. Please let me know what you guys would suggest with the 2 ideas above and anything specific to look out for. TIA

@Mark2Frikkin amazing stuff you got going there! Well done. I really need to read up on this a bit more. Any sites\references I can look at? If I understand it correctly the components would be your Inverter and ICC talking to it via Pi\PC\VM and then ICC also talking to various Sonoff switches that are connected to wifi as well? And then the logic coded into ICC to make decisions on what needs to be on when? OR is this all done via HA? Trick here being ICC and it being compatible with your inverter. What are the guys using who are running LiFePo batterieswith BMS which need to also talk to the inverter? Is it a case of either ICC or battery BMS communicating with the inverter? Not both.

Hi That's the same errors I was getting when set to Li in setting (05) and profile L01. Are you seeing those errors come up immediately and do they auto clear or do they appear at random times? Mine appeared at random times when running off battery only, sometimes minutes, sometimes hours. This was also only when Li was selected, when in USE mode it works perfectly. Mine also gave me those errors immediately when I had the wrong DIP switch config. However I am not sure what the setup should be in your case with no DIP switches? What are your pin outs? I see you still have a standard cable there with the battery label, or did you cut the other side and rewired the pins? The Dyness guys indicated that my issue with the load tripping randomly while running on batteries was due to a firmware issue, so I would love to know more about the local supplier who can assist with upgrading the firmware. Where are they located?

What are you running and what fixed it?

Did I and everyone else on my install just miss the biggest thing or is this again manual being wrong.... Those 2 cables going to the same port? Both on OUT. So that's the inverter + battery parallel cable in the OUT port! Welcome @willietes , please keep us posted on this tripping issue post the firmware update. Also you cant test this by disconnecting the grid and PV from inverter and having the batteries supply the load only and time it to see how long it takes to trip. Best wil batteries fully charged to be sure its not SOC related. ALSO best is try and be close to the inverter to check which warnings appear (likely 04 and 20) when this tripping happens.

Yip, have done the factory reset a few times since actually.

From your initial post there is no indication that it should be signed off by an engineer. Draw your setup as simple as can be and make use of crayons and colors If you didn't do the install yourself, ask the installer to supply this. Start with that and see what they come back with.

Yip, hoping that someone else can confirm their config as well. What I did find with the new inverter FW is that I cant switch off the BEEP of the button press. Had this as BOF (setting 15) before, but with the new FW BOF still beeps a hell of a lot

Right, so according to Dyness guys the 0100 is for Hybrid inverters. Apparently the SPF5000TL HVM-P is classified as off-grid. Tried 0100, but gives immediate 04 and 20 warnings, doesnt recover from it. Change to 0110 and works fine again. I will now leave it as a battery firmware issue and wait for their update once in SA. Dyness also confirmed its the crossed cable (NOT the straight). comms cable pin out for growatt SPF is battery PIN1 to inverter PIN 2,battery PIN3 to inverter PIN 1

OK so did the Growatt FW updates yesterday, reset everything and then configured with L01 option, but still the same game. Was within about 20mins that the load was dropped and reset again while running off batteries. Will try the 0100 setting on the DIP at a later stage when I feel like resetting everything in the house again and being disappointed Again on the cable, surely there must be a right one? Huge difference in straight(Dyness supplied ones) and crossed (growatt). Everything I have seen online points to the crossed cable which comes with the inverter.

OK, I have now again confirmed via email with Dyness that it needs to be 0110 on the host\master battery. "Hi set the master DIP 0110 firstly,then start the battery and inverter,choose program05 to Li1,enter it and exist to main display. please use the correct comms cable,and plug inverter side to BMS port,battery side CAN IN. if everything is set correctly,but communication can't success,you need reatart the battery and inverter to see again" Seems like inverter update would be the next step and then go from there. Mahone also suggested this before Dyness came back and indicated the FW issue.

@SiliconKid Yip that seems to be exactly the case. It would just be great if someone with a similiar setup can also test this config and confirm if they are also seeing it. I'm hoping that they dont and that I might just have a faulty comms cable OR some other issue (other than the FW indicated by the supplier). I already see a difference in my DIP settings of 0110 vs the suggested by @Igubu of 0010.

I have been through the process with Dyness & Growatt and still have an issue where my batteries would switch off supply for a second, basically trip house power, and then reconnect as if nothing was ever wrong. This would happen at random times when running off battery only. Sometimes minutes after switching to battery, other times after 5+ hours only. SOC at that stage is still 75%+ based on battery SOC LEDs. This only happens when running setting (05) as Li and profile L01. When running as USE it works perfectly, not such power disconnect issue.. What I have seen when this happens is Warning 04 (low battery) and warning 20 (BMS comms issue) when this dip occurs. Dip switches I was told to set to 0 1 1 0 on master and also using the cable that was supplied with inverter(black) which goes from BMS on inverter to the master. (not the straight through BMS cable supplies with batteries). I have not done the FW upgrade yet, but after speaking to the guys at Dyness they confirmed that this is a battery FW issue and that FW needs updating. They however do not supply this to customers, but plan on coming to SA once Covid clears and travel is allowed. Still not sure how this will resolve the FW issue on MY batteries, but have asked them to keep me updated on this. Apparently their remote upgrade facility is still in development. Would be great if someone else with Dyness and Growatt can test the same. Maybe its a faulty cable in my case, or something else, but Dyness confirming FW issue, I stopped further troubleshooting and just run it in USE no issues (as suggested by Dyness). Also gave me these parameters to set in USE mode. "parameters,max charge voltage 53.5 V,float voltage 51V,cut off voltage46V,max charge/discharge current 50A(for 2 units(batteries)"

@mmacleod: Thanks for the detailed reply. Much appreciated!

Wow, what does your system entail? What was the process? Documents that needed to be sent in and did they then do a site inspection to confirm install? Thanks

Thanks, thats ideal yes, the question is just how would that setup physically work? So now you have Inverter talking to battery pack (Dyness or Pylontech) BMS with specific paramaters for charging, cut off etc. Now do you just parallel your new battery pack (be it DIY or another Dyness\Pylon) and who says the parameters that are configured are compatable with the DIY cells?

Yes, they are LiFePO4 batteries. I'm not 100% sure on the amount of cells, but do recall 15 being mentioned. They are very similar to the Pylontech's, and apparently a sister company.

Hi all Currently running 2x Dyness 2.4kwh batteries on Growatt 5000spf hybrid. What are my options if I want to increase this? 1) must I again use Dyness or can I use any Lithiumion? Pylontech? DIY? 2) must it be 2.4 or can it be the 3.6kwh or even 4.8kwh batteries? From what I have read, best is to make new batteries the Master and the older ones slaves. I'm guessing I will have to stick to Dyness or other brand with the same bulk charging voltages. Thanks

Anyone know if software like BatteryView is available for Dyness batteries, or any other way of checking cells and overall SOH?

But does it come from the BMS or is it just hardcoded as part of the Growatt L02 profile? L01 for instance sets this at 54V and Growatt confirmed that this is the profile for Dyness. 54V being the upper limit in the 52.5V - 54V range for Dyness as per battery B4850 specs.

OK, so I have read through most of this and still not sure. Can someone please try and explain it using crayons. So running panels with 2kw capacity, Growatt SPF 5kv hybrid and 2x 2.4kw Lithium batteries. All loads via inverter, excluding stove & geyser. Grid input only used to charge batteries when PV not available. So as long as the charge current to batteries is capped at 15A this should be fine as an off-grid system?

Excellent thread with some great info! Thanks guys!

Agreed, interesting though is that when you set the Batt Type to Lithium on Growatt inverter and select L01 profile it then sets Bulk & Float to 54V. I was informed by Growatt that L01 is the profile for Dyness and L02 we know is for Pylontech from what others have posted on the forum. However when you do this method you are actually making use of that expensive BMS one paid for with the battery and would hope that it is the better option.