paul99

I had the same problem and i removed 1 of my panels on the string that was going to 380v all the time when it rebooted all the time Now everything is ok Looks like you can push the strings to about 330-340v then they reboot which is quite annoying as it takes a few minutes every time as it ramps up slowly to max power Now my string only goes to about 320v and the other goes to about 275v (one string faces north and the other is north and west mixed) Combined i had about 6.8kW of panels of 400w now i have 6.4kW which works better I do get a weird jump up in power on the 1 string at about 9:30am every day when the inverter seems to go from trying to keep both strings at the same amperage and it then switches over to trying to keep both strings at the same voltage After a while if the sun is constant with no clouds they both balance out to about 305v and 285v so looks like it wants to go to about 600v max for both strings combined but gives a bit of leeway

Item: 6.5kW JSD hybrid inverter plus Naara 5kW Lithium battery Age: battery 2 yrs old inverter 5 months old Price: R 15 000 Payment Method Accepted: money transfer or cash Warranty: none Packaging: none Condition: 2nd hand Location: Naboomspruit from next week or Pretoria in 3 weeks time Reason: Installed a bigger system Shipping: for your cost Collection: yes

You would have to put a level switch in your tank as well and put it in series with his one Then he would also need a ball valve in his tank Then if either of the level switches put on the borehole both ball valves will still be open and will receive water till the full one closes its ball valve and the other tank will fill till the level switch in the empty tank puts off the pump again and that ones ball valve will still be open You would have to make sure both ball valves only close when the level switches are already off, that way if one level switch triggers the pump both would fill up till the ball valve in the full tank will switch off the flow of water to that tank and continue to fill the other tank that is empty What you must also do is use some sort of relay to make the level switches only switch on the pump when the the line is open and switch off the pump when the the level switch line in closed

Put in induction stove top Uses much less power Put smaller element in your geyser and turn the geyser down to 53 deg and put a timer on geyser to only run when you are sleeping Also you can add a solar geyser panel to your existing geyser , then your geyser will use almost no power except on cloudy days when the normal element will have to work, or add a dedicated solar panel and a solar element to your existing geyser which should work out cheaper than the solar geyser panel, downside is no sun no hot water Also almost no one uses ovens anymore With the new air fryer ovens you get they are the way to go and use typically 1200w-1600w instead of 4Kw that a oven typically uses

I have 2 off us2000bPlus and 2 off US2000C and i added a UP5000 to the setup Just pick the pylontech 4 off+ batteries that have the highest DOD So in my case i just picked US2000Plus*4+ which allows a max of 89% DOD Anyway i dont think even if i picked US3000C which is 95% DOD the BMS of the US2000 batteries wont allow them to discharge that far The goodwe GW5048ES can only charge max at 100amps so that is why it only goes up to 4 of batteries per pack because then it sets the max charge amps at 100 amps even if you have 20 batteries

I had a similar issue ,but as i had registered for the extended warranty with pylontech i filled in the form on their website as the battery was only 5 years old and at 96% SOH The US2000 plus battery was sitting at 65% charge with no errors and refused to charge or discharge Pylontech replied to me Hi， This battery should have uneven battery cells. I need to check the battery data. I have sent you the battery view and usage instructions. Please download the event and history records (txt) of the battery and send them to me. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/6zez2tnoosqhf1c3gxrqr/AAh0jcsGAbhyufXtRgdjBbo?rlkey=bxq3dosqhk2pp3b9u5b0rwpan&st=08d3vlid&dl=0 If you are unable to download the data, you can contact our South African service provider for assistance. https://zfrmz.com/kqzUAXyexObULY2WZoEF So thats what i did i sent the txt files as requested and this is their reply On Tue, 10 Sept 2024 at 10:29, service-pylontech.com.cn <[email protected]> wrote:

I have same problem I have a US2000C as master with 4 other US2000B plus Connected an old pc with win7 on it and can connect to the 4 US2000b Plus batteries but not the US2000C I left my battery connected all the time to my computer with win10 on it Maybe it got a surge and damaged the BMS of the US2000C Strange though it refuses to connect on the win10 pc to any of the batteries

Does anyone know of a product in south africa similar to this one https://www.salicru.com/gb-en/vr-eqx.html My voltage varies between 237-265 mostly over 248v all the time My one fridge has already packed up and i am sure there will be more things to follow Or are there any hybrid inverters that constantly supply 230v to household regardless of the grid voltage on and off grid

ok guys here are my settings for loadshedding small or large My aim is to deplete my batteries down to 40- 50% at night You will notice i start and end on uneven hours as loadshedding is always on even hours so i will always overlap by 1 hour either side of loadshedding if loadshedding is below stage 5 (stage 5 and higher is 4 hours after each other at certain times) ECO MODE if you dont put any settings in at night (ie when there is no pv) it will run those hours as if it is in "General Mode" only drawing what it needs from battery to satisfy the load i set no1 01:00-05:00 charge at 5% (this forces the inverter to load say 600 watts in my case from grid for those hours Your load will get added onto this 5%) This 5% is about what my house draws at night when everyone is asleep so when its loadshedding it goes into "general mode" mode and only draws from battery what it needs to satisfy the load and when loadshedding is over it keeps the batteries at whatever % the battery has dropped to because the 5% will satisfy the load without drawing any more power from the batteries I have now switched this off so it runs as if in general mode from midnight to 05:00 as my batteries can carry me from 00:00 till 07:00 but if yours cant here is an option to top up the batteries or keep then from discharging further before sunup i set no 2 06:00-10:00 discharge at 1% This is not for those that can't discharge to grid ,but i can. This forces discharging the batteries at a couple of watts and stops the pv from charging the batteries because i have found that if i charge my batteries at near noon when pv is high i can draw up to 7kw from my pv (load+charging batteries+export to grid, i must also add that the inverter is set to 50hz not south africa, see attached pdf for proof thanks to the software from CEF) If batteries are near full at 11am then i can only draw 5.2kw from pv when sun is at max (load+export to grid) Now for the last couple of days it has been raining and cloudy mostly every day so the batteries dont get charged enough for the evening i set no 3 13:00-1600 charging 6% (In my case this is about 1 kw drawn from the grid for the battery + the load gets added to this if no sun.) The sun will always give more than this on a sunny day then this setting does nothing,but at least when its cloudy my batteries will get charged for the eveningfrom 13:00 if PV is exporting more than the load it will add the left over pv to 6% and charge with that up to max that the battery can handle and export the rest If PV is less than the load it will draw the extra load from grid and charge at 6% So from 16:00 till 21:00 all the cooking etc gets done and then it all quietens down and i dont set these hours so it acts as if in general mode drawing from battery once the sun sets (hopefully the batteries will be 80-100% depending on loadshedding) i set no4 21:00-23:56 charge 10% This will top up the batteries to about 80% after the evening usage and loadshedding Remember loadshedding usually kicks in during these hours then the charging stops and discharging happens If your batteries can carry you thru the night then you will only set the daytime in case it is cloudy The times that you set nothing the inverter will act as if it is in general mode Hope this helps someone out there Regard Paul screen.pdf

here are screenshots of the other screens remember to click save after changing something otherwise nothing will happen

I use the same ver 3.3.16 on samsung In the beginning i also did'nt see it but if you open it up and as fast as possible you keep tapping the screen on the very right hand side next to Monitoring while the monitoring data is loading and you do this several times it eventually shows up I just saw it there by accident one day and it would dissapear after a miilisecond So i just kept opening that screen and tapped on the right continuously till it opened up and now it shows up all the time it shows up in a different language some times Hope this helps and works for you Also

hi Miko Just to clarify your statement about setting remotely In SEMS portal app you can set the inverter remotely Scroll down to bottom Where it says inverter click the GW5048D-ES Next to monitoring click configure click the box i agree and press next Click the arrow next to working mode and you can set your different modes remotely Hope this helps

Do any of you know what detection mode under advanced settings does? I have set mine to full wave detection as i assume it detects the surge when loadshedding ends and cuts those out as it is running on batteries at the time I see you can get meters for your db board that cut off the power for a certain time and then restore the power Do any of you have surge plugs on your refrigerators? I am thinking of putting them on my 5 fridges as i have a ups on my computer and modems and every time loadshedding ends the ups kicks in for a few milliseconds so there was definitely a surge or voltage drop coming thru when i had the detection set to support voltage ride thru Still busy checking if the full wave detection does anything Loadshedding just kicked in and the ups still kicked in for a few milliseconds so i guess the full wave detection doesnt do what thought it did I see you can get surge arrestors 20Kva and 40Kva I wonder if one of those would maybe help for the surges? Another thing that used to bother me is under diagnosis message i have a posting of: SOC delta over range Please check the settings for battery capacity and charge voltage But this has been like this for 4 years and one of my neighbours who has the same system with a us3000 battery has the same message, so i have just ignored it as i just picked the standard pylontech 2.4Plus x4+ setting Also i have changed my safety settings to 50Hz Default as the South Africa setting kept restarting my inverter ,i think bacause the voltage is so high here 240v-250v

hi guys Its now 08h00 and i just measured the grid and inverter again loadshedding is now off Grid measures 245v-246v inverter output is about 1v more and pv master says 245.8, so i guess my grid voltage is just a bit high, Do any of you know what detection mode under advanced settings does? I have set mine to full wave detection as i assume it detects the surge when loadshedding ends and cuts those out as it is running on batteries at the time I see you can get meters for your db board that do the same thing except that they cut off the power for a certain time and then restore the power Do any of you have surge plugs on your refrigerators? I am thinking of putting them on my 5 fridges as i have a ups on my computer and modems and every time loadshedding starts and ends the ups kicks in for a few milliseconds so there was definitely a surge coming thru when i had the detection set to support voltage ride thru Still busy checking if the full wave detection does anything Loadshedding just kicked in and the ups still kicked in for a few milliseconds so i guess the full wave detection doesnt do what thought it did I see you can get surge arrestors 20Kva and 40Kva I wonder if one of those would maybe help for the surges? Another thing that used to bother me is under diagnosis message i have a posting of: SOC delta over range Please check the settings for battery capacity and charge voltage But this has been like this for 4 years and one of my neighbours who has the same system with a us3000 battery has the same message, so i have just ignored it as i just picked the standard pylontech 2.4 x4+ setting

hi guys sorry i was away for 2 days Firstly Miko i set no 2 to discharge at 1% (less than 100w) ,because i dont want the batteries to be charged during this time [remember that if you set discharge mode the inverter wont charge at all during the hours set and visa versa] so that i can utilize the full pv power from 10am My ongrid setting is 52% so it will go down to 47% min then if loadshedding should kick in for 4 hours on a cloudy day i still have enough power [hopefully] i only run my batteries down to about 50% at night and then i keep them there till 10am or lower if its loadshedding, because i dont want them to charge up to say 65% or 70% by 10am when the pv is starting to give max power If i dont discharge at 1% the pv will charge the batteries to 100% too fast, and if its loadshedding during 10am till 3pm and i will loose the extra pv power as it has nowhere to go I find that during 10am till 2pm i get about 4-6kw out of pv, my house pulls about 1Kw so if its loadshedding i loose all that extra power if the batteries are at 100% Thats also why i run my dishwasher and washing machine at that time if its loadshedding to use the extra pv I am in the lucky situation to have and old electricity meter so what i pump into the grid i can just draw out again at a 1:1 ratio I have had my 4x pylontech 2.4kW US2000plus batteries for 4 years at the end of march + 1 more US2000C added beginning of last year , and my SOH just clicked over to 98% in December I set my offgrid to 89% seems to always go down 1% more than what you program I read somewhere that the less you draw down your lithium batteries the longer they will last and i dont think i have ever pulled my batteries down to less than 30% Logical since the cycles will then take longer Mr google says You complete one charge cycle when you've used (discharged) an amount that equals 100% of your battery's capacity — but not necessarily all from one charge. For instance, you might use 75% of your battery's capacity one day, then recharge it fully overnight and then use 25% the next day This is then 1 cycle The 21% is just what i ended up thru trial and error to get my batteries to charge up to 100% before 23h00 This might change as the loadshedding gets worse Also if you charge your batteries at say 50amps i am pretty sure they wont last as long as when you charge them at 20amps anyway manual says it recommends 25A and 50A max Now about the measured and reported voltage I just went to measure irt at the inverter db board about 1m from inverter Inverter said 250v and i measured 249v with 1 meter and 246v with another meter for the grid and inverter then loadshedding kicked in and backup output is now 231v on pv master and i measure 233v so meter is a bit out The 250v worries me a bit is the grid voltage really that high? i will measure it again later as it is now 00h30 and let you know