Douw G. Gerber

LOLS - I see they now posted it is only availabl ein the latest BETA

Hijacking the thread...I don't have the option to setup the Eskom Eskom loadshedding schedules in my SA as you do... I checked the QA on the website on how to do this - don't have the option as described. Cheers Douw

Hi there mate, I am also a gamer (sim racing) and if I look at what gamers pay for GPU's then there should be no problem going for a LiFePO4 based backup system 🙂 What are the specs on your PC - PSU and GPU? That way we we can maybe start working out a spec for a backup system for you. Also post the results form your smart plug after running some 3DMark benchmarks for say 15-20 min continious.

Just buy the right cable from the solar assistant guys 🙂

I have the latest official release of the software - where do we get the loadshedding shchedules? Is that perhaps in the next BETA? I followed th elink shared in an earlier post - I dont' have that option for Grid in the advanced settings?

Now take it to the next step 🙂 Home Assistant Automation - then you can have screens like this

No equalisation required for LiFePo4

Yeah read about that. Cool thanks for confirming

Hi there all I have noticed over the last few days where it has been very overcast with some break in the clouds here and there where the sun then shines through, that during that time my panels are jumping to as high as 4500w produced. As per sig I have 8 x JA Solar 455w Panels = 3640W Is this normal?

More qualified people will comment too please - but from what I have read it as to do with the installation being compliant with the SANS regulations. So you cannot have battery and solar cables running in the same conduit as your 230v AC - I guess it could be a safety issue if someone works on your cabling and don't know that there is DC and AC cabling mixed.

Working again. It has only done it once or twice in the past 6 months but took quite lomg to come back up again today

Check his latest video on farming with chickens 🙂

Anyone else not able to access their SolarAsssitant using the custom URL? My unit is definitely up and running becuase my HomeAssistant is communicating with it and I am able to access it externally via DuckDNS and internally via my home network range.

2nd battery installed and all looks lekker - thanks

Hi all I just want to get all my ducks in a row before the battery arrives. 1. For now I will only ever have the two batteries connected to the inverter - is it ok to wire it up as per the pic in the manual - making sure that cable lengths are equal where applicable. 2. Do I absolutely HAVE to have the new battery at the same SOC as the "old" one when commissioning - lets assume the new battery is at 75% SOC when unboxing, will it balance with the original over a few charges and discharges? Or should I disconnect "old" battery (at 100% SOC) and connect the new battery and fully charge to 100% and then reconnect both? The "old" battery was commissioned in August so only has 132 cycles on it. Reason for second battery is two-fold, 0.5C discharge on these and I want longer running capacity. The 0.5C discharge limit hasn't really been an issue but I have now had once or twice where a lawnmower is connected by garden services and then it kak's itself. The longer running capacity is what I am more after - we very very rarely go over 2.5kw load but I think it is better to have the battery balanced with the inverter capacity. At the time when I purchased the system I wasn't aware of the discharge rate specification on batteries. If I did know about it I would have baught a 1C battery.

You wouldn't damage it per se - but they would go out of balance from what I understand - when adding the second battery I have read its a good thing to disconnect the original when at 100% and then charge the new one to 100% and then hook up both - it will balance itself over time though anyway probably

However, shown like this on their website 🙂

Other people will also confirm - but yes as far I am aware your pic with the changes, is the correct way to wire it up.

Looks interesting. I am using Home Assistant with my Google Nest speakers to play an alarm when power fails and a message when it is restored. This seems a lot less complicated and possibly user friendly

And to add to this - my geyser has been converted to use Heat Pump for heating - so I am already using a 3/4 less energy to heat my water. Maybe they will use their brains and only install the ripple control in homes where there is no solar/heat pumps.

Weird - mine is working fine - iPhone 13 using Chrome Browser

Check your iPhone WiFi settings - click on the i next to your SSID - they enabled some new privacy settings where you can hide you MAC Address etc. Switch it off if it is on - might be the issue - worth a try

Another interesting point I just read on Tom's Hardware is that 16ms is the minimum spec for ATX. Wonder how few PSU's comply.

Seem like they do state the load for Antec at least:

hi there mate - please can you share a link to this site where you got the image from?