Douw G. Gerber

Just to also confirm - can you run an online UPS of say 1000W in line with this type of inverter to cater for that switch-over time? However just getting a better/new PSU is probably cheaper

Hey there I am using a custom card Code as follows: type: custom:button-card name: GRID STATUS entity: sensor.grid_voltage show_units: true show_state: true tap_action: action: none hold_action: action: none color_type: icon styles: icon: - color: | [[[ if (states["sensor.grid_voltage"].state > '210') return 'green' else return 'red' ]]] - height: 105px You have to install a HACS plugin-in for the custom-card as far as I remember

I use an induction plate to boil my kettle. I have it set to 1300w. I can see in real-time when used my inverter load goes up by +-1300w. But I do agree when set to the frying setting I can see the duty cycle kicking in based on different values - but I am pretty sure on the water boil setting it only uses what I have set it to.

That is dodge AF that they cannot or do not want to disclose the cancellation fee. I believe they HAVE to be able to disclose this according to the CPA.

Have had this issue with mine since day 1. Well a few days after day 1 (installed in August). I have a RPI with SolarAssistant running which I use to manage my inverter so I never do anything on the device itself. I have just decided to live with it - it doesn't affect the core functioning of the unit in anyway from what I can see. To remove the unit now and send to Mustek for a repair and being without backup power is way more of a hassle than the display looking wonky. My unit is installed in a room attached to my home so I dont see it anyway 🙂 However, it will be an issue if you have to make changes using the buttons on the device (these touch screen buttons are a k@k idea too btw) as the part of the display that gets corrcupted is what shows your settings etc. However, a cold restart of the system seems to fix it long enough to make the necessary changes if you have to. As a side note - the 8KVA version that also has this display does not seem to have the same defect. I have a family member with this unit. I am glad to hear I am not the only guy with the issue. Other than this display glitch, the inverter has been performing flawlessly for the past 5 months. Whatever you do - don't try and update the software - its not a software issue - I did it when it first happened and I bricked the screen completely LOL - had to take it back to Mustek for a reload - which I have to say was pretty quick - onlly three days without my inverter. Cheers

I also run in USR mode, just posted to show what the BMS settings are when connected via comms. I use solar assistant connected to my battery

Here is my attempt at a dashboard - love Home Assistant

I think it is a feasable option if you just dont have the cash or access to finance. Very popular in the US to do it like this. Just check in terms of if you ever want to sell your house what their contract says about that. What is the minimum contract term? My household "savings" on monthly electricity bill is about R1000-R1500 per month depending on solar production/consumption for a system of same size that you mentioned. Let us know more details once you have properly spoken to them and checked everything out.

Yeah you are 100% correct - the corruption will need to be sorted out FIRST before any of these other remedies can be considered. I enjoyed the article as it was written by an engineer who from my basic understanding seems to know what he is talking about - better than the usual stuff we get on MYBB, News24 etc. just telling us how bad it is. We know its bad - how do we fix it...

Its a good start the prepaid meter useage - but it won't tell you your peak and average load requirements. You will need something like the Efergy Energy Meter to do this - its a bit pricey but is also a useful gadget to keep even after your install is done.

My brother baught himself this one today - will provide feed back on it. But the specs seems decent and its a Mecer - at least you will get support form Mustek if it gives problems. https://www.firstshop.co.za/products/mecer-1kva-1kw-lithium-battery-inverter-trolley-with-50ah-lithium-ion-battery-and-820w-mppt-controller-sol-i-bb-m1l-158799?_pos=1&_sid=89ed89515&_ss=r They also do a the 2000w unit https://www.firstshop.co.za/products/mecer-2kva-2kw-lithium-battery-inverter-trolley-with-100ah-lithium-ion-battery-and-820w-mppt-controller-sol-i-bb-m2l-158800?_pos=2&_sid=91b6e9e43&_ss=r

Ah ok - I'm running mine as a VM on my "Movie Server" using Oracle VM. Thats another option.

Do these tools only work with Shoto - Does Dyness perhaps have the Seplos BMS too as it uses the same pin-outs?

Very insightful read Focus on improving EAF as a quick win to stop loadshedding https://www.engineeringnews.co.za/article/opinion-focus-on-improving-eaf-as-a-quick-win-to-stop-loadshedding-2023-01-12/rep_id:4136

The bundle price on their website for the hardware and software is good. Home Assistant is open source and free - you only pay if you want remote access from anywhere You need this cable to connect to your battery: https://solar-assistant.io/shop/products/shoto You need this cable to connect to your inverter: https://solar-assistant.io/shop/products/voltronic_rs232 if you have the RS232 port Cheers

Yes SA is monitoring and a little bit of management, HA adds all the automations based on the info/data gathered from SA.

yip

SolarAssistant + Home Assistant is awesome. My dashboard on a small tablet: Bedroom and Study A/C is on a Tuya smart plug which automatically switches those plugs off during loadshedding, high inverter load etc and back on based on certain values being met. The grid status is a custom button that goes red when we have loadshedding and I also have a couple of Google nest speakers in the house that play an alarm when loadshedding starts and a notice when it ends. Pool pump is also automated in this way with certain parameters. You could easily install a single Tuya compatible led downlight that is RGB and let that go red when loadshedding kicks in using HA. Just that your light switch would have to be on though. Its just an idea. I managed to do all of this just by following instructions and googling - I have no coding experience - just IT literate. PS. Bob is my Robot vacuum - a previous poster said HA is a rabbit hole LOL. Cheers Douw

I watched a couple of videos where they explained about electronics in our homes causing leakage to earth, things like PC's, washing machines etc. Each device will have some minor leakage but once all of the devices together go over the 30mA of your E/L RCCB you get these nuisance trips. Apparently a Type B E/L can solve this. The qualified people can chip in here 🙂

Hi there Daniel I have an Mecer Axpert inverter (not the same model as yours) and the same Dyness battery. I have BMS comms to the inverter and the settings as set by the BMS comms is as follows: To grid and back to battery has been set by me. If you want to save yourself a lot of headaches and get some really cool stats and other stuff from your system have a look at SolarAssistant. Paired with Home Assistant you can create plenty automation and dashboards like this: Bob is my Robotic vacuum 🙂 Let me know if you want some more info.

Wait before you go buy a fridge - get an electrician to check out your DB - one breaker for all plugs? Could work if you have very few plug I guess. I agree fridges have a high start-up surge, however my Samsung friddge is 10 years old and doesn't trip my battery... Can you maybe post a pic of your DB

Hi all My brother (Cape Town) is considering getting an inverter and battery installed - solar later. He has no intention of backfeeding excess energy to the grid once he gets his panels. Do you still have to go through the whole COCT process if you will only be running in off-grid mode, and does it HAVE to be one of the approved inverters? Cheers Douw

I have to say though - my Dyness is a 0.5c battery and I have not had any such issues with my fridge. I do think the more modern fridges are more efficient. I think aircon's are also something to consider. Cheers

I fully agree with Scorp - new fridge first if you can. Otherwise take kitchen off inverter for now until you can get a new fridge - your fridge will stay cold for at least 4-5 hours while off.

Efergy Energy Meter works very well for this requirement.