jumper

53.2V seems very high for a 15S battery. Are you running the inverter on user settings or with BMS comms? Here's an excerpt from the victron website... they generally seem to know what they are talking about: "When DVCC is enabled, the battery (via the CAN-bms) is responsible for the charge voltage. The Pylontech battery requests a charge voltage of 53.2V. We have however found that in practice this is too high. The Pylontech battery has 15 cells in series, so 53.2V equates to 3.55V per cell. This is very highly charged and makes the system prone to go overvoltage. It should also be noted that a LiFePO4 cell stores very little additional energy above 3.45V. For this reason we opted to override the BMS and cap the voltage at 52.4V. This sacrifices almost none of the capacity and greatly improves the stability of the system." https://www.victronenergy.com/live/battery_compatibility:pylontech_phantom Also, what are the SOC lights on the battery showing when this happens? If they still show it is highly charged then perhaps you need to drop your back to grid voltage, the internet tells me the US3000C can go as low as 45V.

Most Axperts will charge lithium batteries just fine with the correct "Use" mode settings, I wouldn't ditch it. You just need to be aware of the premature float bug to make sure your batteries are charging properly (only affects solar charging apparently). Some newer models like the King (OGPlus) have a BMS port which will communicate directly with a pylontech battery with the "PYL" setting. There are other lithium settings, but no documentation on their specifics, so not sure which other batteries work directly. The pylontechs will certainly be the easiest to set up and run directly via the BMS port if you have it, but a lot of people just use Solar Assistant between the inverter and battery. I just run my battery on voltage settings and it charges perfectly.

In order for the inverter to read from the BMS you need to change the battery setting to PYL or one of the other lithium settings available. I am not sure which lithium setting to use with the greenrich, but I know the PYL setting uses the pylontech protocol over RS485, some apparently use CAN and/or other protocols, but I don't know what they are, there is no info in the King manual. If you switch to the PYL setting and the inverter doesn't give you an error after 1min then it should be working. Hopefully someone with a greenrich can let you know what setup they have for comms wrt pinouts and dip switch settings if that doesn't work.

Just another point on these inverters... the default settings kill lead acid batteries. The main one being the cutoff voltage. On the 24V model the cutoff is set to 21V by default and technically that is way too low, you shouldn't go below 12V on a 12V battery as that is already considered a deep cycle (deep cycle batteries should not be deep cycled often, go figure), so the cutoff should actually be 24V at the lowest, it should be higher if you want LA batteries to last. If your previous inverter was running on default settings it would all work fine, but you may have been running the batteries too low without noticing if you were working from the display graph. I did the same thing on my 3kW 24V Axpert. Your batteries are quite new so I don't think they would be damaged unless you ran the inverter until cutoff often during that time.

I really wouldn't worry about that too much. My inverter drops a bar as soon as I go to float. The display will have changed because you have increased the cutoff voltage, so the range for the calculation of the display of the 4 bars has gotten smaller (volts wise) and no bars is not actually empty yet if you get what I mean. What will be happening is your battery is charging up to 57V which the display uses as 100%, but as soon as it goes to float at 54V it thinks it has lost 3 volts already and the batteries will probably settle to 52V without load or charge so it thinks it has lost 5V already, but the battery is still fully charged. I think because the cutoff on the old 24V inverter was set too low you got used to the bars not dropping so quickly. I hope that makes sense.

You could change that up to about 45V and try not to hit that too often, if the inverter does cut off you know you can at least go and change the setting and switch it on again rather than have it happening all the time without noticing. I would then set 'back to grid' at 47-48V so you can use grid if it is there to save the batteries or ride it down to 45V (or lower if you have to) if there is load shedding. I don't have grid and my inverter is not in the house and muted anyway so I like to get a warning by everything switching off to let me know the batteries are getting low or there is an issue.

Yeah, I would up the bulk to 57V as @Psysuggested and leave the float at 54V. I have my LA batteries to cut off and 48V as I want them to last as long as possible, see if you can work with that and lower it if you need to, but these deep cycle batteries don't like to deep cycle often. I wouldn't worry too much about the bars on the display.

Are these the same as the previous inverter settings? If so, the next thing is the cutoff voltage, if that has changed then how the bars behave will change. The thing with these inverters is that they use the bulk voltage for 100% and the cutoff for 0% and then crudely display the bars based on that range and the current battery voltage, so if any of those change then the bars will change. Mostly that bar graph is "for entertainment purposes only". I also expect the new inverter to have a higher self-consumption than the smaller one, but it shouldn't be a massive difference. Do the batteries have any charge voltages printed on them or a spec sheet?

That could work, just think of what fan you are going to fit in there to move the air, make sure the fan will fit inside and not be bigger than the tube to get the best flow. I guess it would be best to put the fan at the inverter side for noise and for power supply. You can get 220V 'PC' fans that can move a decent amount of air.

Just be aware if/when buying online that there are a lot of scams around, a lot of people are being caught out.

If you've turned off the grid and the inverter stays on then it must be getting some power from the battery or it would just turn itself off. I am wondering if it might be a problem with the inverter as it is reading 0V. Are you able to check it there is indeed 0V on the battery terminals with a multimeter? Hopefully @Dynesscan help you out here as they will know a lot more than me about your battery. Good luck.

I don't know the dyness specifically, but usually this just indicates the battery is in standby and not currently being charged or discharged and all 5 lights on indicating that it is full. Does the battery still work? What do the lights do when you turn off the AC in and add a load on the inverter?

That is quite possible depending on how much load you had during LS. To be honest it is difficult to tell the state of charge of lithium from the voltage alone, usually it is easier to tell by lights on the battery or connection to the BMS to read the SOC directly. Do you have a time set for the bulk charge? For my 100A lithium battery I have the bulk charging time set to 120min (setting 32) so that the voltage stays high for long enough for cells to balance and charge the battery fully before it goes to float. As there is a BMS in the battery one would expect it to prevent any overcharging, but there is no information I can find on how the BMS operates and how to tell if it is at 100%SOC. If I was running these batteries I would set the bulk charge to 57V for 120mins, float at 54V and see how it goes from there. P.S. I see in your image that float is set to 53V.

This was my issue on a 4 month old panel. Looks like a hot connection at the negative ribbon from the panel. I measure 40V on both ribbons and 20V if I move the negative probe below the melted part. I tested the diodes and they are fine. Judging from the positive ribbon there was not much love put into assembling it. Luckily the panel is still under warranty so I will be returning it soon.

With a nominal voltage of 12.8V*4=51.2V this is the same as a 16S lithium battery which usually floats at 53.5V-54V.

Hi @GRV, @Steve87recently did an install on slate and mentioned it was not easy, perhaps he could point you in the right direction.

FYI I recently had a panel fault which was not easy to find as it was still producing half the voltage, turned out to be a melted contact in the junction box on the back of the panel.

I think your best bet might be to test the individual strings of 3 panels where they join (combiner box?) and perhaps unfortunately each panel individually. The problem with testing strings in parallel is if one of the strings is faulty and produces 0V, you will still measure the same voltage across all of them at the inverter.

Sad to hear the batteries need to go in for repair, but nice to hear they provide good service. Good luck.

Yeah, sounds like the usual government hoops to jump through, but I'm sure they need to be very careful supplying such expensive equipment to the public. If they had a program like that in this country there would suddenly be truckloads of new equipment available on the black market.

This is standard behavior with the Seplos BMS it will be balancing and it can sometimes take a while which is why LBSA suggested changing the float to 56V because at 54V is too low to get cells above 3.5V, so the lower ones can't catch up. It probably just needs more time, the BMS will prevent any overcharging as it will disconnect the charging circuit as soon as it reaches 100%SOC.

Welcome Paulo, that's quite amazing, you have made me want to move to the Azores 😀 Looks like they have given you some decent kit there. That's not too bad as you have 2 mppts on the inverter so it just means you'll get good energy earlier in the morning and later in the afternoon which will give you a better spread of energy throughout the day and might be better if you are running batteryless. If the wind is very strong then maybe a bit of space between the panels might be a good idea so the wind can escape through the gaps and the panels don't act as a big sail. The roof mounting brackets I have seen usually leave a little gap between the panels anyway for the brackets to attach. Also, depending on your bird life there you may need to get to the panels to clean them from time to time. I've attached a document on solar panel installation that you might find helpful. Installation_Manual_of_Standard_Solar_Modules_en.pdf

Yeah, the BMS is quite an impressive machine. I calibrated the time a few times, but it always seems to be out so I stopped bothering. The balancing is passive so it burns off the charge in the higher cells above 3.5V, but it is only 100mA or something like that so it can take some time. I did change my float voltage to 54.5V so it still does some balancing when the inverter switches to float before 100% SOC. It might just take some time for the cells to balance nicely as the battery is new. I faffed with comms for more than 2 months so my battery was 'worn in' by the time I got the software connected. I fiddled around with the settings a lot in the beginning chasing the 100% SOC, I turned of the intermittent charge, lowered the equalization voltage to 3.4V, increased the charge voltage to 57V and few other things and realized after a while that the default BMS settings work fine, it was just my expectations that were wrong.

I must admit from my observation that catching the 100% SOC is not always easy with these batteries because once it reached 98% it enters a state where it constantly changes status from charge to standby to charge to discharge to standby to charge etc. every few seconds. The effect this has it that it reduces the current the battery allows in and ramps down the charging and it can take some time before the battery hits 100% SOC.

I may be way off base here, I don't have a sunsynk, but I seem to recall someone suggesting in another thread that the timer settings shouldn't go over 00:00. Maybe try changing the slots to 21:00-00:00 and 00:00-05:00.