jumper

I don't have any personal experience with pylontechs, but you should probably make a serial cable for the console port and connect to batteryview on a pc to be able to read out the BMS data... there is a massive amount of pylontech info in this excellent topic:

If you don't have timed absorb (bulk charging time) on your inverter (should be setting 32) you can use the equalization function. I run equalization on my shoto at 57V every 5 days aswell just to make sure it gets a full charge in case the weather has been bad. If you had comms between the inverter and battery it would be automatically charging to 57.8V to set it to 100%SOC, but that means an overvoltage protection on every charge, which I don't like, I get to 100% with 56.4V, it just might take a little longer. It shouldn't be a problem with your battery, it was the older SDA48100 model which I have that had this issue, the SDC10-Box5 came out after that so I wouldn't worry about it.

Unfortunately the seplos BMS doesn't balance as quick as an active balancer like @WannabeSolarSparky has installed. When it goes into balancing at +95% it does a few different things... it limits the current to 10A, but it also does what is called 'intermittent charging' where the battery actually switches between charging, discharging and standby constantly every few seconds while it burns off charge in the highest cells, so it takes much longer to balance. This behavior also drops the current to zero every time the battery goes into standby which the inverter can mistake as the end of the charge cycle. Balancing might be quicker than 120mins, I just use that to be sure in case of bad weather (I'm off grid) because once the battery reaches 100% it disconnects the cells from the DC bus anyway and the cells will settle, so they won't sit at bulk voltage the whole time. There was a known batch of batteries which had a bad diode installed due to the covid shortages (I think in the BMS), but afaik they were being fixed under warranty without any questions. As @Coulombmentioned above this is the equalization setting, you need to change the 'timed absorb' to 120mins (you can change this later once you've seen how long it actually takes to balance your battery) The seplos BMS will only start balancing cells above 3.5V, so some cells need to get that high. Also, if you don't charge to 100% fairly regularly you can start to get SOC drift.

Try increasing your bulk charge time to 120mins, so the battery has time to balance before the inverter goes to float. When balancing, the battery will switch on and off and the current drops to zero and the inverter will think the battery is full and switches to float.

@Ralf I think the issue here is comms. If you want the batteries to talk to the inverter to control charging and have 1 place to view them all via PC then 15 is likely the limit for the amount of batteries on the comms network. You can add as many as you like in parallel after that, they will just have to be accessed separately via PC if you want to see what they are doing. You can likely set up bat 16 as master in the next set so you can access another 14 batteries through it.

I have no clue on the greenrich unfortunately, hopefully some users on here can help out.

I just uploaded a version I had lying around on my PC to the downloads section on the forum here:

It makes sense if the BL3.6 is master that when it is flat, the inverter will think they are all flat, so it will limit the amount you can use from the bigger batteries. It doesn't make sense to connect the older batteries as master though, usually with other batteries like pylontech I've seen the new battery added as master. It wouldn't make financial sense to buy bigger batteries if you can't use them fully though, you might as well just buy more 3.6s... seems a little silly.

If the original issue was an airlock then perhaps your jojo pump is aerating the water when it enters the house system and recreating the airlock over time. I would try bleeding the pump fully to make sure there is no air in the chamber and then try flushing the system by opening all the taps to see if any big air bubbles come out of the piping. The fact that originally your water meter still turned when all the taps were off is what led to believe there was a leak... did that stop when the plumber fixed the issue last time?

That seems strange, usually the BMS will have current limiting to 10A when it gets full, usually above 90% so it can slowly balance the cells. I'm not very familiar with your inverter, but it could possibly be the wrong lithium battery selection if you have comms working with the battery.

That is strange on a full battery, the only other setting I would think of is setting 29, low DC cutoff, if that is set too high, I don't think that is set automatically by the BMS comms.

Reminds me of the 'borehole water' signs people put up outside their houses so they don't get hassles during water restrictions.

What is your load when you get this error? If you only have 1 of these batteries it is too small for a 5kW inverter. The recommended discharge is only 37A per battery which is around 1.8kW.

Most likely you have a leak somewhere you can't see, either underground or in a wall. Blocked pipes or filters wouldn't cause the pump to keep starting, that's because of a loss of pressure due to a leak. If you can adjust the low pressure start point you can reduce the amount of times the pump starts until you find the leak.

Most of the Shoto batteries use an older version of the seplos BMS which doesn't work with voltronic because it only communicates via the CAN port even though everything seems to suggest it will work over RS485. The only solution I know of so far is Solar Assistant.

Here is something I came across a while back when looking into boosting panel voltage. It can boost the voltage by 15x. I went with 18x100W panels in the end to get my 800V, but it's an interesting product nonetheless. https://www.sustainable.co.za/products/microcare-svb350-single-phase-solar-voltage-booster

Yes equalization is usually run on lead acid batteries once a month, but we use it for balancing lithium when on USE settings. If you have setting 32, you can increase the bulk charge time to 120mins, that's how I get mine to 100% on most days and then I use equalize at 57V every 5 days to make sure.

Depending on your model, it should be settings 33: EEN 34: 56.4V 35: 60 36: 120 37: 1 39: AEN You can probably access the cell voltages on the battery lcd screen if you want to see if there is any imbalance.

The battery will need some time at 56.4V to top balance before it will seem to jump to 100%. Make sure your inverter stays at 56.4V for an hour or more. The battery will look like it is turning on and off while it is balancing. If the inverter is reaching 56.4V and then going to float voltage before 100% then you need to increase your float to 56.4V also or set the equalization to 56.4V for 1hr and see if that gets to 100%, otherwise increase the time.

The LBSA is a seplos BMS which won't work with Voltronic inverters without solar assistant unfortunately.

I also just realized the self-consumption of 2 inverters is probably going to be quite high.

Those settings seem mostly correct, you can reduce the max utility charging current to 2A as you have no grid and I think those 2 might conflict with each other. You need to make sure the inverter is charging to 56.4V and staying there long enough for the battery to reach 100% or it won't be fully charging. If it isn't you'll need to either set the float or equalization to 56.4V for the battery to charge fully. That battery is a bit too small for those 2 inverters, it can only put out 100A max (50A recommended) which is 5kVA and you have 10kVA of inverters, not a good combination.

Can you be more specific on the battery? What size? What model? For 2x5kVA inverters I would expect it is at least 10kWh? Do you have comms working with the battery and inverter or are you in USE mode, if in USE please share your settings.

It seems very strange that the inverter is using the battery to power loads when there is plenty of PV, I would think this is an issue with the inverter settings. The inverter should be the one who decides where to power the load from, not the battery. Once the battery hits 100% the inverter can use it for self consumption, but loads should still be run from PV. I can imagine if the battery is constantly being charged to 100% and then used for loads down to 90% and then charged to 100% again multiple times a day, it will not only be deteriorating the battery prematurely, but all those tiny cycles will cause the SOC calibration to drift which is probably causing the dips to 0% and trips.