jumper

Yes, that is definitely not a seplos. It seems it is almost working via the RS485-1 port, but maybe there is an error in the protocol implementation, you might need a firmware update for the BMS which should be quite easy as you have the pc software working. Perhaps you can try to get hold of them via this site: https://www.cleverbms.com/ or maybe via their Aliexpress store: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804556606243.html

It sounds to me like you might have a seplos BMS in your battery, like my Shoto battery. The thing with this BMS is that you can't use the RS485A & B ports, those are only for battery to battery comms, as you had it working with the bms software over RS232, the batteries then communicate over RS485 with each other. These ports can be used for inverter comms only if you have something like solar assistant in-between. Only the CAN port on the battery can be used for direct inverter comms, but the problem is that the inverter expects RS485 if you select PYL, LIB or LIC. Voltronic only uses CAN for the Weco and Soltaro settings. This is probably why your installer got it working with the Axioma, because he used CAN. I suspect you should be able to get it working on a growatt if you select the growatt protocol on the battery and use the CAN port to connect to the inverter, not RS485.

It looks like you have an issue with the communication to the inverter, either through the wrong battery port or the cable is incorrect or you need to use the PYL or LIC setting. I would be very carfeul turning off the current limiting if there are no (or faulty) comms to the inverter or the inverter will try to push too many amps into the battery when it is full. Current limiting should only take effect once the battery is over 95% and is there to allow the battery to balance. If comms are working the BMS should tell the inverter to reduce the current to 10A, but if there are no comms the current limiting is there to protect the battery. This is why the inverter throws an error and won't charge if there is a comms issue, so it doesn't damage the battery.

It is normal for the voltage to drop a little when the charging source is disconnected, the battery will usually settle below the float voltage. The most important with lead acid batteries is the cut off voltage, make sure this is at lesat 48V or above. A low cutoff voltage is what kills lead acid the most and the default on most inverters is too low. If you are only using 10% in most cases then you would probably not go below 48V, but with multiple load sheds you might and over time that will kill the battery, so keep an eye on how low you are going. I would agree with @Nexuss, I would keep using them until they die, they still seem to be doing fine and serving you well, no need to replace them until then and likely lithium battery prices will be cheaper in future. I have a set of 125Ah flooded lead acids that have been going since 2016 and a set of 200Ah gels that are 4 years old now and still doing fine, these batteries can last many years with low loads like you have.

Could it be that your panels aren't producing enough power for the element? Your specs of 97.5V x 4.8A = 468W and that would be more than they can produce as they will operate below Voc. That gives you less than 936W with 2 panels and the spec says the element is 1-4kW. In less than ideal conditions the panels will produce even less power.

Fyi this just means the bms uses the pylontech protocol to communicate with the inverter, there are quite a few batteries out there that do.

Not sure I'd put 3 lugs on each battery terminal on the inverter, that sounds like trouble. Why not just use interlink cables between the batteries to parallel them and then take a positive cable from the left battery and the negative from the right battery? You can still wall mount them like that.

Fyi the older models don't do the bonding automatically. I have a MKS-3KVA-24V and confirmed this with a plug meter as you suggested in another topic a few weeks back.

Give this a try for the dip settings. This seems to be the standard order in which addresses are set using dip switches whether there are 4, 6 or 8:

If 3S is 120V then 2S should be around 80V, similar to mine which should work nicely. Give it a try with only 2 panels at first before rewiring them all.

Afaik these inverters can clip excess amps, but can't do much about over voltage. How are your panels configured? 3S? If so you should think about changing to 2S. I operate my panels in 2S and the voltage is between 70-90V and works without issues.

As others have mentioned, that is way too low, you shouldn't go below 24V. Lead acid banks are usually designed to only use 20-30% of their capacity if they are to last for years which is totally possible Another thing is to make sure the batteries are charging properly, a lot of these inverters will charge to bulk voltage and switch straight to float without any absorbtion time. Make sure your inverter holds the bulk voltage until the amps drop right down before it goes to float or you will be undercharging the batteries which is worse than overcharging.

OK sounds good, keep an eye on it and also note down the voltage of the battery as reported by the inverter when it gets to 100%.

These are settings 7 & 8 in the same menu where you are changing the battery setting 3. These are the charge voltages used by the inverter and should be automatically set by the battery BMS, I just want to be sure that they are set correctly for your battery or if there is a problem with the communication. Also note down setting 10, to see if the inverter is trying to run off battery voltage or SOC... this might be the cause of the sudden jump from 60-100% when charging. If it is using the voltage, that is not a great indication of the actual SOC with lithium batteries.

Yeah, that's definitely not right, it looks like the pylontech setting is the correct one if it shows the correct storage capacity at 200Ah for 2 batteries and seems to indicate that the communication is working and your cables are correct. Are you able to see what the bulk and float charge voltages are set to when you are on the pylontech setting?

Glad you got them sorted, I actually have the SDA48100, but it is basically the same inside, just a different housing, it's 16S with a seplos BMS... same thing basically. My resting voltage is about 54V, but that is right after charging, I'm not sure if it drops a little after that. but between 53V-54V there is not much storage, with a little load, at 53V it is only at 99.3% (@53.62V it was 99.8%):

It has happened to many of us, the fact that it is flashing and the same format as all the other error messages makes one panic just a little.

If code 6 is the recommended battery code for CFE and it doesn't give any communication error then I would use code 6.

Why aren't you using code 6, does it give a communication error on the inverter? Code 2 is for the pylontech protocol which is also lithium, this should be querying the bms for charge voltages etc. just the same as code 6, but code 6 will use a different protocol. If code 6 gives a communication error and code 2 doesn't then I would think code 2 is the correct one to use. This does seem strange, either there is a comms issue with the battery and the inverter is guessing the SOC from the voltage or there is a problem with the battery itself, either a bad cell(s) or incorrect SOC calibration due to incorrect charging. Do the SOC readings on the inverter match the SOC lights on the battery when it does this? What are your charge voltages on the inverter for bulk and float? These 'should' be set by the bms if comms are working, but perhaps they are incorrect somehow.

This is not actually an error, it is trying to say Eq (for equalization), not E9.

What problems are you having with your battery? Is it not charging to 100%? Is it dropping SOC suddenly and cutting out? What are your charge voltages and currents set to? Do you have comms set up to the inverter or PC?

@TERS1983 I would second @Scorp007on that call... 2000W@24V=83A... a 60A BMS will be too small, 24V systems run high currents.

I find a 375W DAB pump provides plenty of pressure and volume for a house of 2 people and they are cheap as chips, I can't put the shower on full blast or it hurts. I'm not sure if it will run 2 showers at the same time, but those things are manageable. I don't use a bladder tank as with 2 people the pump does't turn on that often and runs fine off my 3kW axpert without complaints, but with more people a bladder tank would be necessary to save the pump 👍 I think a single pump providing pressure to 4 houses is going to do too much work with all the switching on and off every time someone uses water.

Those look like nice machines. I went with a microcare 2kW 400V 3phase unit (R11k) as it looks a bit more outdoor friendly. It lives under the panels out in the mountains with +40C in summer and snow in winter and the microcare is built like a tank. It has performed flawlessly for a year now, even though their technical support was not very helpful when I needed it.

If you are supplying multiple houses then it would be best to pump water straight into storage tanks above ground and then distribute from there to a tank at each house (preferably with gravity) and then have a small booster pump (375W) at each house for pressure. You might be able to do without the tanks and booster pumps at each house if the main storage area is high enough to provide good pressure to all. You can then set up the borehole with solar to pump all the water you can during sunlight hours into the storage tanks and use that at night. Your borehole is probably shallow enough to run a DC solar pump straight from panels, but I went the vsd route with a 3 phase ac pump as they are generally much cheaper and easier to get fixed and the range of choice is much bigger.