stefan44

This right here. I had the same question a while back, my panels specs were a little further apart than yours ( it was 500w panels and I added 2 595w panels) so my setup is 4 x 500w and 2 x 595w all connected in series, and the mppt behaves exactly like Meerkat said.

When going to a multi rs solar inverter from the multiplus 2 it was the biggest change observed in my household- almost silence... the multipus 2 is a Low volt low frequency inverter fan was noticeable when inverting high power and charging the multi rs have a high voltage dc bus and high frequency architecture with 2 internal fans that is almost silent at full power I do not know if it it true for all brands of HV inverters, but in my case it sure is.

please ignore my advice, what Coulomb said is the golden standard.

is the temp probe not to close to the cold water inlet of the geyser? that will explain all of the mentioned symptoms.

the 4000w rating is the charger's rating, 80A at 50v is 4000w, that it the max watts that the mppt can charge the battery with. your limits on the input of the mppt is 145v open circuit. the PV panels on the roof cannot "push" amps to the mppt, the mppt " pulls" the required amount of amps from the pv array, so you can have 20 kw's worth of panels connected to the mppt but the mppt will only charge the battery at 4000w, and will "pull" the required amount of amps from the panels. you can easily add 4 more panels, you currently have 4p2s (4 in parallel and two in serries) then you would have a 6p2s pv array 4360w vs 6540w. you now will have 6540w on the roof but you can only access 4000w of it due to your inverters 4000w limit, this will cause you to have better production in the morning and afternoon. Lets say with the 4360w panels you only managed to get the 4000w max for one hour every day from 11 up to 12, with the 6540w you will extend the max production window to something like from 10 up to 13h00 so in total you will be better off

TimG, it seems that it is the best setup for your mppt and panels. 3 panels in serries will exceed your mppt Max voltage. regards

https://www.digikey.co.za/en/products/detail/onsemi/FGH40T65SHD-F155/5168074?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18332725675&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLlijV_6HSRLKD35AN-LJp8L2F&gclid=CjwKCAjwl_XBBhAUEiwAWK2hzlotqzBbvTJfkSDeR_JXlmSaXx_T6UeL9loksO5m46wqGgN8OQqamBoCE0wQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds according to google AI "The FGH40T65HD is a 650V, 40A IGBT (Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor) from ON Semiconductor. An equivalent IGBT would be the FGA40T65SHD, also from ON Semiconductor, which is a field stop trench IGBT with similar characteristics." Did you find the cause of the blown IGBT? you dont want to replace the IGBT and on the first start-up it blows again.

I cannot claim that I am doing right, I just use the batteries as I have said, Freedom won deserves the credit for these batteries performance, They were first installed in 2018, I have no idea how many cycles they have done, as I have changed my system a couple of times since then. afaik absorb charge is the stage after bulk charging with reduced amps and to a higher voltage than bulk(the absorb voltage setpoint) in lifpo4 batteries this is were the internal balancers of every 12v battery starts to work at 14,2v. (BMS dependant) your batteries might be internally unbalanced from never reaching the internal balancing voltage(14.2) I would try to charge every 12v battery to 14.2v with a cc/cv powersupply and keep it there for a day or two to allow the internal balancer to work, or connect all four 12v's in parallel and charge them to 14.2 and keep them there for a couple of days/ week. the internal balancers is usually very weak, they balance at 20 - 100 milli amps so it might take a while to balance a 800ah stack just checked my volt drops on the system, from 52.57v at 275w dropped to 51.27v at 3582w, and 53.29v at 211w dropped to 52.47v at 2073w it looks almost inline with what you are observing.

Good Morning, I dont have a better way of managing 4 12v series connected batteries, I can just share my setup.. I have a Multi RS inverter with 4 x 200AH Freedom won 12v batteries connected in serries without a balancer (purchase date was 2018) and with a DIY lifepo4 consisting of 15 120ah cells and a single 90ah with them(making it a 90ah 51v battery, managed by a JK bms that is connected in parallel with the 200ah bank via busbars. this is not a loadshedding backup system, this is 100% of grid. my charge settings is as follows, bulk - 54.7v float - 54.6v according to my cerbo and smart shunt data, yesterday my max soc was 85.2% 16h30. Yesterday my CBI astute app's timer again malfunctioned and the geyser was switched on at 18h00 and did not switch off at 19h00 and kept on until 23h00. this resulted in my system switching off at 1h06 this morning. At least the water was hot enough not to start the gas geyser. anyway keeping in mind that the batteries only achieved 85.2% soc i still managed to pull 284.8Ah from the batteries, the deepest discharge was 331AH I have never used a balancer on them, when I got them I connected all four in parallel and charged them upto 14.2v (with a bench ps) for a day of two and that was the only balancing ever. I periodically (probably once a month) I check individual voltages wit a DMM, and they have always been within 0.01v from each other.

Good day, I cant help you guys on the error you encounter on these inverters. just want to say it good to see there is other users of these meanwell inverters. I was running my TS3000 24v for a good couple of years in a offgrid setup 24/7, according to me it is one of the most reliable best build quality inverters around. Still have mine ( its now the backup to my victron) How have you experienced these TN and TS series of inverters?

yes it will work, and it will work well. I preheat my electric geyser to 40 degrees, and use the gas geyser to top up to 55 degrees. I have a low pressure gas geyser(not a forced fan unit) I set the flow rate to max and the gas knob to min, with this setup I use 9kg per month ( 4 person household). the reason I only heat up to 40 degrees is because of my limited PV panel power, I could only "afford" to dump 4kw/h per day into the geyser. I recently added 1.2 KW pv panels so I will revise my thermostat set temperature to 50 degrees for even grater gas savings.

can second this, the only sound they make is occasional relay clicking but like Bobster said, its only during startup, and iirc it only clicks when the inverter changes modes, eg. load serviced from grid, change to pv or battery. apart from that it is silent.

cool, sound like a win win for me. Placed the order now, just got confirmation that they will deliver to my home before 10:00 today. If my mounting hardware arrive before Saturday afternoon, I will be able to fit it over the weekend and monitor for the next week and come give feedback on the actual production.

thank you Meerkat, I just wanted some confirmation as I could get the same 500w panels for R2k or the 595's for R1600.

Good day forum members, I have a question regarding high voltage mppt's. I have a Multi RS solar with a single mppt tracker 450v max and iirc 18 amps. Documents state that 4000W is max for the mppt. my question is, how will production be affected if I add 2 different panels? the specs of my current panels is ja 500W VOC 45.59 VMP 38.35 ISC 13.93 IMP 13.04 i have 4 of them currently on the mppt, I would like to add 2 JA595w panels to the string with the following specs: VOC 52.58 VMP 44.64 ISC 13.99 IMP 13.33 How much potential production am I going to lose with this setup?

Good day Peersb, why dont you create a advertisement in the classifieds section with the template, I am sure there will be interest in A grade cells

this is the only real benefit, you dont need a thermostat, that is it, to heat the same amount of water to the same temperature, will require the same energy, both elements are 100% submerged so the energy transfer efficiency will be about equal... with all thing equal, your results will also be equal. the 5% difference you observed might just as well be due to the small difference in surface area between the PTC and a normal element, its just a theory I have, no proof or calculations.

I will manually charge all 5 cells separately to 4.2v, to balance the pack, and chances are good that the battery pack still have alot of life left in it, I would use it a couple of times and see how many charge cycles it does before the capacity becomes unusable again, if the pack goes horribly out of balance again within +-30 cycles, then will I add a balancer. If it goes out of balance within the first or second charge/discharge cycle after manually balancing, then im afraid the balancer will be of little benefit if any. new cells is the only way forward then. I have recovered plenty of cells that had a voltage of 2.4 volts, below 2v I chuck it in the trash, I dont even attempt to revive or capacity test. I assumed that 2.4v is the standard low voltage cut off for majority of bms'e (actually in this case is just a battery protection board) because I also found a lot of battery packs (powertool and laptop) that the packs was dead, and inside it was one string or cell at 2.4v and the rest at 3.xx volts

yup, a while ago I saw 2ah ingco batteries advertised for R250. that is R50 for a new high discharge cell. not bad... I 100% agree with your statement that the cells are not bad quality, they just dont have a balancing circuit. And all the powertool batteries that I have salvaged from, its always either the bms or 1 cell(or 2 or 3 depends on the construction 3p5s, 2p5s, 3p10s...) that is faulty, if the battery pack have not been abused beyond recognition, and that led me to believe that the absence of a balancing circuit is causing the majority of the failures. I add a small cheap 4.2v balancer to the packs I rebuild, iirc it only starts balancing at 4.17v at 60ma but it works, so far and it cost about R50

Attached is the data sheet for high star li ion cells, they come in a 1.3ah, 1.5ah, 2ah and 2.2ah capacity, according to HIGHstar their specifications are the same just the capacity differs???? If I were in your shoes I will source Sony/Murata vtc6 cells, out of my own experience if I require a high discharge battery They are the absolute best. another good cell is the LG chem MJ1 cell, both of these 2 have 3000mah capacity vs the 25R with 2500mah. dont even consider a samsung 35E they are not high power cells, any samsung cell with a R after the numerical identifier is high discharge cells, eg 15R, 20R, 25R ISR18650-1300大配组通用技术规格书-486-2019.pdf

I can vouch for these Hisense units, I have a similar model but the 500l one, It uses vey little energy, less than 90w.

Well to preheat the water makes a huge difference in water temp in winter and gas consumption. I have a 16l gas geyser for 2 bathrooms, It was connected straight inline with the hot water line to the taps, bypassing the electric geyser completely. with this setup I used 9kg every 9 to 14 days depending on the season. My outside pipes is insulated with much cheaper pipe insulation, I saw the pipes in my roof was insulated with old cloth and rags bound around the pipes with twine, and that also works. about 6 month ago I put my electric geyser back inline to preheat and feed the gas geyser, I set the geyser thermostat to 40 degrees and changed the element to a 2kw unit. I use 4kw/h to pre-heat the water (150L) thats fed to the gas geyser, in the dead of winter with only the gas geyser heating the water I could not get the water temperature above 45 degrees. now with the preheated water the temperature easily reaches 80 degrees in the summer(80 degrees is the geyser's cut out temp) and I have not seen the water temp below 55 degrees and the gas geyser is set to max water flow and min gas, and this have resulted in a 9kg gas bottle lasting 25 days plus....

this does not make sense, very expensive equipment paired with the cheapest 2nd life, 200ah batteries available, Its like ordering a bently continental and they deliver a bently continental with Tata hubcaps and 13" wheels. get rid of those batteries and pair the system with a proper battery, like Freedomwon or Bluenova

Mines wired with 1mm2 wire. 8m from pool db

also ensure the earthing between the generator and inverter.