stefan44

Good day forum members. I hope somebody can help me solve the problem I ran into when I switched out my digidoor ii's incandescent bulb to a LED. The light was working fine when the old bulb was in, turning on when the door opens and turning off +- 5 min after the door closes. now after I swopped out the bulb for a LED light, the light just stays on, door open, door closed, press the light button on the wall console, you can hear the relay clicking but the light stays on permanently. Does anybody have a idea what is causing this?

can you not drill through the PC board behind the terminals, and use a bolt and nut to clamp the battery lug to the terminal?

the picture is unclear, so I cannot give you my opinion

I agree with you out of my own experience. On christmas morning as my wife was preparing the leg of lamb in the air fryer, my meanwell 3000w inverter let out a "gunshot" and a funny smell, no smoke and the power remained on. the following day I removed the inverter and opened it up the first time since it was manufactured in 2012. On the inside it was a horror show of dust and gunk(gunk probably from a can of coke that was opened near the inverter a couple of years ago that was shaken and the coke sprayed all over the inverter and now I saw that the fans did suck some of it in" any way... I blow the dust away and the main board is in very good condition, very well made but there is 3 450v 330uf rubicon caps and one of them that is in a corner next to a heatsink and big inductor is completely covered in dust and sticky gunk, cleaned the dirt and grime off and sure as day, the cap popped its top. Rush to a local electronics store and they only have one in stock but is is 35mm instead of 25mm. Got home replaced the cap and off we go... Now I still have to order 3 caps and replace the whole squad together, just to give me peace of mind. The inverter remained functional, If I were not home to hear it pop, I would not have known that there was a looming failure waiting to happen. so that is my story about dust and caps.

you again with your Lumo batteries? how many usernames do you have on this forum?

Strange question, Pylontech does not make inverters are you TShegofatso?

Strange question, Pylontech does not make inverters are you JAMES NAIDOO?

WILL BE PERSUADED FURTHER... In other words "please note making defamatory claims against our company will be convinced further"

R3199.00 for a 410w Canadian solar panel.... they are not going to scam anybody with those prices.

use google to search for ja solar panels 550w or Canadian panels 550, I'm sure you will get a lot of results

the price is not good for a unknown brand, that is a good price for established brands like JA, Canadian, Trina and the rest of the so called tier 1 brands.

its a myth. supercapacitors was not/ will not ever be intended for long term energy storage like a battery. almost all of the "supercapacitor batteries" you see advertised as having ridiculous cycle life and charge/discharge numbers are in fact LTO cells - lithium titan oxide. A supercapacitor that can discharge 5kw/h of energy will be the size of a house.... a big house.

the latest version 3.60 is available, been running it for a couple of days without any problems

watsapp inbound

only 2 solutions I can think of now, buy 2x 12v lifepo4 batteries now, connected in series its a 24v battery, buy 2 more when you switch to 48v, 4 in series is 48v, the best practise in this scenario will be to add a balancer to the series connected batteries. or buy 16x 100ah lifpo4 cells and a BMS that can operate with anything from 4 to 17 cells.(or 20) JK bms is a popular brand. 8 of these 100ah cells in series will make a 100ah 24v battery, to make a 200ah 24v battery, take 2 cells and connect them in parallel with each other, and connect 8 of these 2 cell packs in series with each other, now you have 24v 200ah battery. and when you switch to 48v, connect all 16 in series for a 100ah 48v battery.

Good day, I think a adjustable power supply will be the best bet, 0 - 30v and 10A max, you could charge from one to 8 Lfp cells in series. alternatively I use a cheap 3A buck converter (=- R50) with just about any power supply, battery charger or laptop charger that have a higher output voltage than what you require then connect the buck converter to the charger and fine tune the output voltage of the buck converter to your exact requirement

on the pic of string 2, the pv voltage is too low for the mppt to start. connect both smart solar chargers to a VE.Smart network and activate synchronous charging. my guess is wat happens now, is the one mppt push voltage to the busbar and then the other mppt reads that voltage as the battery voltage and assume that the battery is full and dont charge any further. I had the same problem but with one blue solar and one smart solar, and the two of them cannot sync charge, only the smart solar can do that. I had to fit a smart shunt on the battery and get a cerbo gx to control the two mppt's, the mppt's now uses the voltage from the smart shunt to control both of them. I believe if you have 2 smart solar chargers you can activate sync charging without a shunt to rectify your charging issue, and you need to get the voltage up on the second mppt.

Good Morning FragtioN, what is your asking price?

I think the problem with these type of fuse holders is the part inside the holder that cradles the metal fuse connection endcaps, I had one that melted pretty badly, with 75v and about 20 amps it was Onesto branded upon dismantling the melted remains of the fuse holder, I saw that the connection area is very small between the fuse and the cradle that is connected to the terminals of the fuse holder.

good day Gremlin, I am in agreement on what Revov told you, although I dont have revov batteries, I still employ 12v 200ah freedomwon batteries in paralel to feed a 24v inverter, and they are charged with a Victron smart solar 100/50 and a BMV 702 to monitor the batteries so the system is similar. I do not have a balancer between them, just voltage measurement via the BMV for both batteries. now during charge and discharge the voltage between the batts differs between 0.0V and 0.3V, it fluctuates the whole time, but as soon as the batteries "rest" meaning no charge or discharge they tend to always settle between 0.0v and 0.0##v difference. they are connected 2p2s for a 24v 400ah battery, the deepest I have discharged the bank was 392ah and the individual batts measured between 12.1v, 12.1v, 12.2v, 12.1v with no bms cut off. my setting is as follows, Float 27.15v Absorption 27.3v Absorption time 3hrs and tail current disabled. regarding point number 4 on your post, when I received the batteries I connected them all 4 in parallel and charged them with a PSU (5 amps) set to 14.4v for a week and a couple of days to balance the batts. point number 3, I cannot stress this enough, cable lengths MUST be equal and as short as possible and thick. Make sure that the bridge between the batteries is also as short and thick as possible. this point number 3 will have the most significant effect over time on a well balanced system. after I typed this reply and thought of this system and analysed the data on the VRM portal , It became clear to me that I actually should invest in a 24v balancer, rather sooner than later. as my batteries do start to drift apart over time. Are my settings the "correct" ones?, I dont know, I just know it works for me.

a 8kw Sunsynk, with 10kw sunsynk batteries, wont even feel that pump starting up. a pump starting up cannot damage your panels. I run a 1.1Kw pump on a 3kw inverter, with 5kwh batteries, and it has never caused any problems or damage.

This right here seems to be the reason, Last night I replaced a empty 9kg lpg cylinder with a cylinder thats about half way full, and I got this failure to ignite condition, just like I get every time I change the cylinder. I just loosen the pipe connection at the geyser and let a little gas escape, then I just tighten the gas pipe again, and Ignition!

Correct, the Phoenix, Multiplus I and II, Multigrid and Quattro inverter range does not have a SCC, the Easy solar I and II and RS smart solar are the inverter range with built in MPPT's.

at least they are honest, well sort of.

the Lifepo4 or the supercapacitors?